My Multico TM1 Tenoner Scribe Head & Stuff I Need?

[merlin]

To use the angle guide I screw it to the back of the table then rest the rail up to that (screw a sacrificial timber to the front edge first)
then clamp the rail down tight.

I think you need to draw out a rod first on the sections that you intend to use as buying lots of different blocks will be very expensive, have you downloaded the Whitehill book as looking at that will help then you can speak to David at Whitehill direct as I have always found him helpful.

Merlin

 

[pollys13]

Merlin.
Yes I had Whitehill send me out a paper catalogue.
When I saw your jig I thought it looked like my sliding bevel to get, repeat angles. I had an idea of how you would use your jig but wasn't completely sure.
Thanks for posting.

 

[pollys13]

Attached screenshots of my spindle and top nut. Has a 30 mm high block in it, with ruler next to showing height. I might be able to fit my limiter head and get a 125 x 50 x 30 rebate then fit both heads on spindle?Countersunk screw rather than locking top bolt.

" Multico tenoner capable of a variety of work including straight, staggered and mitred tenons, plus finger and comb joints." Roy Sutton in his safe wood machining DVD uses a Multico, in the small tenoning section. He says," If it should be desired to do this type of work, ( see screenshots ) a suitable cutter block set can be fitted.( so what is a suitable cutter block set? )

I assume the screenshot shows a comb joint not a finger, box joint? I've read that for single glazing sash, a mortise and tenon, haunched? Provides sufficient strength, though with the advent of double glazing units the additional weight requires a stronger joint, which the comb joint provides due to having a much larger surface gluing area.

Is it worth my while buying a copy of the Multico TM owner, user manual, thinking it might provide me with some tips on using the machine. Or could another tenoner manual provide me with any tips I could apply to the Multico? If manual just explains how to unbolt heads, then I can just other users on forum for that info.
Cheers.

 

[pollys13]

Merlin.
" I think you need to draw out a rod first on the sections that you intend to use. "

I've heard about a rod, template but don't have a clue how I would go about working out the design and then drawing out the rod.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

I also have recently obtained a multico tenoner and just got some scribing cutters for it. My query is can I use the scribe cutter straight off or will I need to cut the shoulders with out the scribe then fit the scribe cutter ?

 

[johnnyb]

you can cut it all using a scribe cutter but I think its better to cut the tenons using the shear blocks then cut the scribes with the moulding part of the block.(usually only the bottom block)

 

[johnnyb]

it always amazes me watching the shear rebate blocks cutting tenons in end grain.its so easy cutting producing tons of end grain shavings!

 

[ScottandSargeant]

I was lucky to buy a TM1 today at a very reasonable price, stripped, cleaned, tested and in perfect working order.Late owner was a home woodworker with small workshop at end of garden. Looks in very good condition and well looked after.

I'm intending to make some replacement exterior doors and flush fitting replacement windows for my house and if I'm not being overly ambitious, A pair of French type doors to replace kitchen extension ones.

The Multico I bought has the old style bolt on tenon cutters on heads.Looking at the Whitehill site under Multico tenon heads, assume I'm looking at the correct, scribing heads?Whitehill have these Multico tenon heads I've Googled but no cheaper alternative came up? Whitehill list the Multico tenon heads in two sizes, 125 x 65 and 125 x 50. Any advantage for 65 instead of 55? I also see the heads designated LH and RH I assume that is the orientation of the spindle thread? I only need one Multico tenon head and to do a double scribed tenon flip the workpiece over and pass through again? So does a rebate head sit above the tenon head, same size as tenon head. I have a Whitehill limiter head 96 x 55 x 30 assume I fit moulding cutters in this and run the moulds on the spindle moulder and have matching scribe cutters on tenon head.
Clarification appreciated.
Thanks.

Remember the originals had a small 20mm bore from memory with a drive pin