My LN 5 1/2 has rusted :(

[Anonymous]

I find camelia oil to be a real disappointment. I bought some recently, and had smeared my new set of AI chisels, a couple of weeks had passed and there so much rust on the chisels that I could no longer see the Ashley Iles black branding!!

Also, is there such a thing as 'rusty fingers' because almost without fail everytime I go to my veritas block it has rust exactly where my fingers were so much so it shows the finger prints! If I leave it too long, I have to resort to taking wire wool to it.

Yet my older tools don't show any signs of rust even if I leave them out in the open - is 'new' steel that much more susceptible to rust?

Strange BB

I found that after waxing my new iron tablesaw, it was rusty the next day, however, since using camelia oil on it, it has remained rust free ever since.
I apply a new coat about every monthto 6 weeks.

 

[ByronBlack]

Tony - which wax are you using? I've been coating my p/t and bandsaw table with liberon wax, and have had a rust free experience for a while - but then I rarely touch the tables with my rusty fingers o' death unlike the handtools.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

liberon wax

Yes thats the stuff "Liberon Lubrication Wax" I don't even buff it up, just wipe it on and leave it. :lol:

 

[Alf]

Jez, dunno if anyone else can find a link for Renaissance Wax; I think it'd be preferable but actually I use Liberon's "Black Bison" and it's okay (touch wood). Pretty much my all round tool-care unguent in fact - never use it on projects. :lol: Funnily enough my mum picked up a can of the Renaissance marked down at Lakeland and when I said "hey, that's the stuff everyone swears by for planes" she actually said (and I kid you not) "well you'd better have it then". :shock: Like a total twit I demurred and said "no, no" and now the offer seems to have left the table. Possibly time to try reviving it...

Cheers, Alf

 

[whiteant]

http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk ... ies31.html
http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/3_r ... ce_wax.htm

 

[llangatwgnedd]

I'm of the opinion that camelia oil is very overrated, tools still rust.

No problems since using Black Bison for hand tools and Liberon Lubrication Wax for the cast iron tables, and still in the same environment.

 

[AndyT]

There are some useful solutions sold in bike shops for use on chains etc, designed to spray on, which go dry and stable and prevent rust for quite a time. Especially good for getting into crevices.
I've used one called "Pedro's Ice Wax" but any bike shop will have something of the sort. "White Lightning" is another brand that should be pretty easy to find.

Andy

 

[Harbo]

I have been using camelia oil on tools like chisels and planes for years with no problems - but you have to replenish it often as it seems to evaporate.
For things like saws I use Bison wax - again works fine.

I also make the point of brushing off sawdust and shavings before packing up in case moisture from the wood transmits across?

Rod

 

[lurker]

Regarding BB's comment about rusty fingers:

Long long long ago when I had hair & no surplus body weight, I went for a job as a service engineer for Bridgeport.

Passed the interview etc with flying colours but I was rejected due to my rusty hands!

They did me a favour really as my career took a strange turning that lead to a decent job. I don't think Bridgeport UK survived for that long after they showed me the door.

Presumably if that happened today I could sue for gazillions for hurt feelings, but we were 'ard when I were a lad.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Use heated toolboxes. Everything else is just far too much fiddling and guddling for me-- and mostly a waste of time in my opinion unless you really, really like to fiddle and guddle. Install low energy lightbulbs; a 7 watt bulb is in this cabinet. This bulb has lasted almost two years so far and cost about £3 to buy.

Wire up, fit a bulb, and forget it, and you always have a cabinet full of rust free tools. This toolbox was on the US Gulf Coast for about ten years. It's been in cold and damp Britain for four years, and the light bulb trick has been working almost flawlessly for something close to 25 years. Neither the Texas workshop nor my UK one had, or has any form of climate control.

The only flaws that used to exist with the system as far as I'm concerned was before long lasting low energy bulbs really came in. Regular incandescent bulbs blow too fast leaving the toolbox to get cold and damp. Low energy bulbs virtually eliminate that problem. Slainte.

 

[ivan]

Phosphoric acid (Jenolite etc, very dilute in coca cola) will eat the rust, with only very limited attack (dulling) on clean steel. If you don't mind the dullness, the phosphate coating inhibits further rust - car bodies are thus dipped before priming.

Daily temperature fluctuations will cause rust and mould if the relative humidity is around 70% or more. Only sure cure is to get a dehumidifier. Here in humid Devon you need one indoors to stop stuff in the back of wardrobes going mouldy - so SWMBO could hardly refuse one for the workshop.

 

[woodbloke]

My shop is permanetly dehumidified in the summer and on a timer in the winter. Shop is moderately heated in the winter. I find that a thin smear of Camellia Oil at the end of the day works for me, no rust anywhere, tho' I think that heated tool boxes are an excellent idea - Rob

 

[Harbo]

Dealac have some Dimplex 60watt, 120watt and 240watt heaters starting at £8.90 plus VAT.
Do not know how effective they will be for keeping the atmosphere dry?
Should keep the frost off? :lol:

Rod

 

[Alex]

Pure brilliance Sgian =D> =D> =D>
Low energy, pretty safe and cheap. I like it a lot.
Heating or dehumidifying most of the users here on the forums drafty non insulated sheds/garages would be ludicrous.

Alex

 

[Alf]

some people swear by having a light bulb permanently lit in their tool storage to keep it warm.

Just think if people actually read stuff how short these threads could be...

Of course unlike dehumidifying the workshop it's absolutely zero benefit in keeping your raw materials in good nick, but that's by the by.

Cheers, Alf

 

[newt]

I have 2 lathes and in the winter I switch on 60 watt heaters that are below the lathes in a cabinet no rust in 16 years. By the way on the news tonight the present government is going to abolish all incandescent bulbs by 2011, 1st 120watt then 60 and finally 40. Is it worth buying a dozen a week and make a killing in 4 years time. Perhaps not big brother would find out using there infa- red detectors. Actually I am quite keen on reducing energy, but a forty watt bulb in a box is pushing it a bit :idea: . Did you know that due to the power factor the heat from an induction motor is free :lol: , but you do have to pay for the energy that turns the motor .

 

[Paul Sellers]

Use Boshield T-9. I use it at the hand tool school during down time and it lasts for months. Works great.
Paul Sellers

 

[ByronBlack]

Paul, do you know of a stockist for the boshield stuff?

 

[ivan]

True, it's my garage workshop I dehumidify.

If you have a draughty uninsulated shed, it's worth attending to, if you value your tools. Condensation comes with rapid temperature change, so our garden shed (the usual shiplap/weatherboard affair) got a stirling board roof and wall lining with some glass wool in the cavity. Although the door is hardly draughtproof, fairly modest care keeps mowers, strimmer, chainsaw and other tools corrosion free. If you can't insulate the whole shed, be kind to just the toolbox. A modest insulated toolcabinet might be economically warmed by one or two of those plug-in air fresheners (minus pongy bottle of jollop) which vaporise their smelly oils with gentle heat. The rating's on the back, usually 2 or 3 watts.

 

[Handrubbed]

I have just sent off an email to L-N regarding a second instance of rust forming inside one of their plane socks. This time there is no foreign source of moisture and the other planes in the closed cabinet were not effected. There definitely seems to be some connection to these socks and some sort of moisture-wicking action. I await their reply and will forward here. I mentioned that there had been some forum discussion but did not specify this forum. I should have there answer in a few days. Meanwhile, I have some socks for sale! :roll: