My first ever project! Bench Build

[FatmanG]

Another day spent in my shed I am starting to feel stronger and I now am able to spend twice as long working than I did to start with. This is massive for me as I'm making so much faster progress in my recovery than physio. Anyway I have glued up my legs again this time they are square. I am pleased I redid them and got rid of all those screws. I also flattened the other side of the bench top ready for attaching tomorrow. Ben Tyreman said he wished he used wedges I may need your advice Ben as I cannot work out from Paul's drawings or video where they go. I don't have a hand router either so again help as to how I can cut the recess in the aprons and the rabbit for the tool well/wellboard. I may have to trawl eBay for more planes. No matter how many tools I buy its never enough lol. I took a few photos of me glueing up. I shall continue again tomorrow, I can't wait I love it.
Cheers Glenn

 

[thetyreman]

I may need your advice Ben as I cannot work out from Paul's drawings or video where they go. I don't have a hand router either so again help as to how I can cut the recess in the aprons and the rabbit for the tool well/wellboard.
Cheers Glenn

Hi Glenn, for the router you can use the poor mans router https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk you can use a chisel in a block of wood, very easy to make.

as for the wedge he covers it in this series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06si-zVX8FA make sure you watch all the episodes so it makes sense.

basically you make the wedges first but make all 4 the same, and drawer in the wedge shape added into the dado for the legs when making out the joint before cutting it, hope that makes sense.

cheers.

 

[FatmanG]

I may need your advice Ben as I cannot work out from Paul's drawings or video where they go. I don't have a hand router either so again help as to how I can cut the recess in the aprons and the rabbit for the tool well/wellboard.
Cheers Glenn

Hi Glenn, for the router you can use the poor mans router https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk you can use a chisel in a block of wood, very easy to make.

as for the wedge he covers it in this series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06si-zVX8FA make sure you watch all the episodes so it makes sense.

basically you make the wedges first but make all 4 the same, and drawer in the wedge shape added into the dado for the legs when making out the joint before cutting it, hope that makes sense.

cheers.

Ben I've watched that series maybe 20 times and that's the first time I've seen him marking out with the wedge. I bet swmbo was differing in my lugs as per usual. I forgot about the poor mans router I shall give it a go.
Cheers mate
Glenn

 

[NickM]

I'm making a Seller's style bench and have just done the leg wedges.

Marking it out was easy enough. I cut the housings with a (electric) router though. As you'll have seen from the videos Paul cuts his with chisels and router plane. You're going to need to cut the housing for the leg whether you have the wedges or not, so I don't think adding the wedges will add much work at all (they aren't big wedges so there's not much extra material to chop out). They should add future ability to tighten things up.

I doubt the housings for the legs and wedges need to be "perfect". It should be easy enough to get straight edges (I think you could saw these down to depth) and as long as the bottom is reasonably even that should be fine - i.e. i think you should be able to get it good enough just with chisels.

Next job for me is making the well board (glued that up last night). I've got to cut the rebates in the well board and the grooves in the bench top and rear apron. It feels like a bit which could easily go wrong...

 

[MikeG.]

Nice if you can slightly under-squint the outside edge of the wedge housing, and put a corresponding slight slope to the edge of the wedge, so that the wedges hold themselves hard in against the bottom of the housing. Years of bashing the top of the bench with a mallet might just induce a little unwanted movement in the wedge otherwise.

 

[NickM]

Nice if you can slightly under-squint the outside edge of the wedge housing, and put a corresponding slight slope to the edge of the wedge, so that the wedges hold themselves hard in against the bottom of the housing. Years of bashing the top of the bench with a mallet might just induce a little unwanted movement in the wedge otherwise.

That's a good idea. Sellers' design has a small wedge "retainer" - just an offcut screwed on the inside of the apron at one end and which can rotate down over the wedge and up against the leg (the end of the retainer is cut on an angle so it stops against the leg and can't rotate further down). Your idea would be neater. Too late for me...

 

[MikeG.]

I haven't watched Seller's videos, so I am unclear of the relationship between the wedge and the underside of the top of the bench. Is it physically possible to tap the wedges down with the top on? Or is it a question of detecting some movement and removing the benchtop to access the wedges?

 

[NickM]

Mike,

This is something I’ve been wondering about myself (I think it was also raised in another thread about this bench design).

To tap the top of the wedges you would need to remove the bench top because the wedges go very near to the underside of the bench top. However, I suspect you can “lever” the wedges against the bench top to tighten them (eg with a sturdy screwdriver perhaps). you could possibly tap in a horizontal wedge between the work top and the top of the leg wedge to force the latter downwards. I’ll find out how successful this aspect of the design is when I finish and start using it.

Nick

 

[SammyQ]

Hi Glenn, from one one 240lbplus to another! "Keep 'er lit" Fella, you are doing great!

Sam

 

[Phlebas]

Mike,

This is something I’ve been wondering about myself (I think it was also raised in another thread about this bench design).

To tap the top of the wedges you would need to remove the bench top because the wedges go very near to the underside of the bench top. However, I suspect you can “lever” the wedges against the bench top to tighten them (eg with a sturdy screwdriver perhaps). you could possibly tap in a horizontal wedge between the work top and the top of the leg wedge to force the latter downwards. I’ll find out how successful this aspect of the design is when I finish and start using it.

Nick

For what it is worth I made a bench on these lines last year and had the same thought. I made the wedges about 12mm short at the top end, so I could put a 'Z' shaped bar in and tap down. In reality it isn't necessary - the angle of the wedges is such that they drop as the bench racks the first few times you use it, getting tighter and tighter. Pine being what it is (compressible), if you cut the wedges to fit exactly, you will end up with a gap at the top, and trimming the bottoms of the wedges so they don't show below the apron (if you are that fussy).

I didn't bother with the retaining pieces, and it has shown no signs of needing them. But an angled (sort of dovetailly) side would be a more elegant approach. Either could be incorporated afterwards (albeit the latter with a bit more trouble, and probably new wedges).

OP, if you want, I can take a photo or two of the wedges in situ. Just so you can see how to do it badly, and improve upon it. I think that is called standing on the shoulders of midgets.

 

[MikeG.]

You could always cut a mortise through the apron just above the top of the wedge, and use this to insert a wedge to force the other one down. Wedging a wedge, as it were. That second wedge need only be temporary rather than ripping chunks of flesh off your hip every time you walk past it.

 

[NickM]

Here’s a photo of my wedges.

 

[FatmanG]

evening guys,
I have been really busy getting my bench finished so only just caught up with the thread. I deliberated over the wedges but in the end i decided against it. I know this is not a good decision long term but i omitted them for the following reasons. I made an error with my design. Because I am limited for space atm i put in a tool well at the side of my bench top rather than at the back full length so i had to then chisel out a tongue and groove style rabbet into my bench top and the connecting piece. This took me ages. I am glad in one way that i did it because i got a lot of chisel practice and i definitely improved as time went on. I finally finished it and it didnt look too bad at all. I put on the aprons then fitted the vice. Its a 10.5" record 53A quick release and although the hole i created to fit it could of been a lot beeter. Its secure and works a treat. I then fitted a shelf at the end of the bench for my sharpening stones but at the moment the stones and a lot more are on there. I have spent a day sorting out how storage designs and as a consequence my bench has had a lot on it. I have measured out for a drawer im fitting they are in the pictures at the side of the vice so I shall be on my first dovetails tomorrow. OI am sorry I have not been posting great pictures but i truly don't own a mobile phone i have no need for one. I took delivery of a Silver Birch tree I bought on Saturday. O paid 100 quid for it and I may of been running before i can walk again. I have nowhere to store it so its outside at the moment. I may start a thread in for sale and see if there are any people near leeds that want some. I probably wont get my money back but its a learning curve lol I wont do it again until I have a least built my new shed which is top of my agenda.
I have loved every minute of building this bench, is it perfect? No but its solid its fit for purpose and i got so much out of it skills wise and more importantly health wise. I am definitely getting stronger my mobility is better. I am hooked and cannot wait to get back in my shed tomorrow
Here are a few pictures of the finished bench i know there not great but it shows it finished and in use. I am going to sand it and put on a finish when i get the drawer done.
Glenn

 

[NickM]

Well done for getting it finished.

 

[FatmanG]

thanks Nick, its the first time ive ever done anything with wood im now going to use the bench to improve my skills.

 

[MikeG.]

Just run a block plane along the aris at the top edge. It'll save you a splinter or two later.

Looks great!! I've got a half tool well too (it only took me 30 years to work out that's what I wanted). The first thing you make on your new bench is a bench hook, then you're good to go.

 

[nabs]

looks great Glenn - I've not seen a tool well in the corner like that before, good idea!

 

[FatmanG]

Thanks mate. I had to chisel out the rebate which I didn't take into account when designing it took ages but good for improving my control and technique. For a small space like mine it works out well. Now its storage before I start building a bigger shed
Glenn

 

[TheGlassHouseproject]

Hi
I’m new here and rebuilding my workbench / workshop and noticed ur post..

I am limited to space like you and for a long time have had to use a knocked up pallet frame as a work platform in the garage. To save space I fixed the frame to the wall to allow me to use it as a vertical cutting frame for large timbers however folded down the warped timber had been unreliable as a workbench and become simply a worktop for none complex, inaccurate work.

As I Clear out and restore the Workshop to its forever glory of over a decade ago I am building in the lessons learned from using the pallet frame.

I now have the workbench frame built correct and square fixed to the wall / folding down as a workbench and when folded back the underside workbench frame will act as Vertical Wall mounted cutting platform for large timber.

Here are some rough pics of the frame mounted and folded down.

I hope this will offer some help with your problems if working in such a small space.

Regards
Bren