My First Drill Press/Pillar Drill - advice please.
- Thread starter OPJ
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Lord Nibbo
Established Member
George_N":1aycmigi said:
Strange!!!! I know Neil and several others saw the pics I posted before using this BT/Yahoo album. Perhaps I should get another site to post my pics onto. Anyone got a suggestion?
CHJ
Established Member
Lord Nibbo, I can't get the URL's either.
You may be getting display from a local cache on your hard disc.
This is the default url address I get http://phvrf.yahoo.com/users/419e2a4azc ... 1cfre2.jpg
note refs after the ? at end of your link are not valid.
You may be getting display from a local cache on your hard disc.
This is the default url address I get http://phvrf.yahoo.com/users/419e2a4azc ... 1cfre2.jpg
note refs after the ? at end of your link are not valid.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
CHJ":38xg5fjj said:
Ok I'm now trying the pics using Flickr. Can you see them now?
CHJ
Established Member
Yep, no problems at all.
MilkyBarKid
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There's a lot of good advice on this thread, but be careful - some people may not need their drills to be as accurate as you. Once you've chosen the size and configuration of your drill - I think that runout is extremely important. The correct way to measure it is to put some round bar in the chuck and use a dial guage to measure runout. A quick and dirty way is to put some silver steel bar in the chuck ( as large in diameter as the chuck will take ideally) and push and pull it to see if you can feel slop - rotate the chuck a bit and try again. Turn the drill onto it's slowest setting and see if you can see any eccentricity as the bar rotates, it's amazing how many drills are visibly eccentric at this stage.
I looked around for a drill for ages and found SIP runout absolutely appalling; axminster, rexon, scheppach, and clarke were also bad. Jet were good The typical B&Q drills were pretty bad too. I'm surprised to see people reccomending clarke - it may be true that they've improved their quality or it may be that some people have low expectations of drill quality.
If you're drilling holes which need to be accurate then runout is important - if you're drilling holes and drilling bungs runout will mean a poor fit between bung and hole.
If you're only using a drill to do low precision work then it's not such an issue but if you think you might use it for precision work later - then try and get an accurate drill. There are a lot of good quality drills available used meddings, fobco, record power, all seem to have a good reputation, and quite often appear on ebay at your price.
I looked around for a drill for ages and found SIP runout absolutely appalling; axminster, rexon, scheppach, and clarke were also bad. Jet were good The typical B&Q drills were pretty bad too. I'm surprised to see people reccomending clarke - it may be true that they've improved their quality or it may be that some people have low expectations of drill quality.
If you're drilling holes which need to be accurate then runout is important - if you're drilling holes and drilling bungs runout will mean a poor fit between bung and hole.
If you're only using a drill to do low precision work then it's not such an issue but if you think you might use it for precision work later - then try and get an accurate drill. There are a lot of good quality drills available used meddings, fobco, record power, all seem to have a good reputation, and quite often appear on ebay at your price.
Bean
Established Member
MilkyBar,
Be careful as you may not be measuring the runout of the spindle using your method. You could only be measuring the eccentricity of the bar in the 3 jaw chuck. It is not safe to assume that a self centering chuck will self centre. If it were so collets, morse tapers and 4 jaw chucks would not be needed.
Using a DTI is the way to go but clock up the machine spindle and not anything in the chuck. It is the spindle which will give you a true reading of runout.
By all means use a bar in the chuck to feel for play in the bearings, but you must expect some play, no play means no rotation, as all ball/roller and taper bearing will have play in them. the smallest amout in tapers. Remember that the play will be magnified by the length of the spindle, chuck and any bar you have inserted. Its a judgement call as to weather the amount you feel is excessive or not.
The best method is to run the drill and drill a hole or two at varing speeds to see what happens under loading, maybe with a few DTI's monitoring what is going on. The shape of the hole wil be a good indication of anything untoward, or rather the number of facets around the edge will be.
Bean
Be careful as you may not be measuring the runout of the spindle using your method. You could only be measuring the eccentricity of the bar in the 3 jaw chuck. It is not safe to assume that a self centering chuck will self centre. If it were so collets, morse tapers and 4 jaw chucks would not be needed.
Using a DTI is the way to go but clock up the machine spindle and not anything in the chuck. It is the spindle which will give you a true reading of runout.
By all means use a bar in the chuck to feel for play in the bearings, but you must expect some play, no play means no rotation, as all ball/roller and taper bearing will have play in them. the smallest amout in tapers. Remember that the play will be magnified by the length of the spindle, chuck and any bar you have inserted. Its a judgement call as to weather the amount you feel is excessive or not.
The best method is to run the drill and drill a hole or two at varing speeds to see what happens under loading, maybe with a few DTI's monitoring what is going on. The shape of the hole wil be a good indication of anything untoward, or rather the number of facets around the edge will be.
Bean
