my chuck keeps dropping off the spindle?

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Escudo

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A rather frustrating morning began when without warning, and for the first time, my chuck in the drill press dropped off the drill spindle.

Why it should do this I do not know?

I found the instruction booklet from Jet but this has not helped me to solve the problem and after a number of attemps to reconect it still keeps falling off.

I just can't see how it should fit, has something fallen out that I may have lost? :?

Hope someone can give me a bit of guidance, all very frustrating and an unwelome deflection from what I was doing.

Tony.
 
How is it meant to fit on? is the back of the chuck fitted with a tapered hole/ or does it have a morse tapered tang sticking out the back.

if either of these, then the tapers male and female need to be scrupulously clean and smooth. wind the jaws all the way into the chuck body. Fit the chuck back by hand and whilst holding it in place give it ONE smart, square on, upward tap with a rubber or wooden mallet (not not not a hammer!)

if it is threaded on or held with a small screw fitted from inside the chuck body, then get out a magnet and find the lost screw which will quite likely be left hand threaded!

HTH

Bob

ps which model is it?
 
Thanks for the prompt reply fellas,

The model is a Jet JDP-10M

The instructions say "Turn the arbor and chuck assembly until the tang on the arbor engages the slot at the end of the spindle"

Should I turn clockwise or anti clockwise. The opposite way that the spindle turns when drilling? It only seems to go on so far and there is no feeling that one part has mated with another?

What does the tang look like? Mention is also made of parts being clean, and they seem so.

Would a few pictures help for clarification?

Thanks for help with this, Tony.
 
Morse taper looks like axminster part no 340098

It does not matter which way you turn it. the object it to ge the two flats on the end of the tang lied up in the spindle. Wind the quill all the way down and there should be a slot where you can see the tang lining up.

HTH

Bob
 
Here are a few pics for clarification;

2464331816_7e98c82e07.jpg


2464332480_96b17598c2.jpg


2464333164_2c62d9631d.jpg


Cheers, Tony.
 
Ok the that is the chuck taper that has come off. Just follow the instructions in my first post and fit it back on.
The rotating instruction in the manual does not apply to this taper. just fit and hit it!

According to a russian site that I found your drill on, that taper is a size B16 for your future reference if you ever want to get a keyed chuck for it.


Bob
 
I had a similar problem with an old drill press.As Bob says make sure its clean and use a little force to push it on and it should stay put.The tang is on the other end of the arbor thatis still in the spindle (like in your photos)so the instructions regarding the tang should be ignored.
 
Glad to hear you are back in business.

One thing that can loosen tapers is intermittent cutting combined with side thrust. Not a normal drilling action but drilling into a sloping face - say a wedge could do it.
If you are drilling like this anytime then perhaps be prepared to catch the chuck with your third hand!!

Bob
 
I have an older drill press & about 5 years ago the same thing happened to me. I cleaned both inside & outside of the morse taper, shoved it back in, put a block of wood on the table bringing the chuck to within the 3 inch stroke, then really slammed chuck down onto the block using the feed handle. The chuck hasn't fallen out since.

Lee
 
I had this problem on my el cheapo drill press. However, this fix didn't work for me until I added a little loctite to the mix. It hasnt' come off since.
 
If the problem happens again, as it sometimes does, my suggestion is:

Remove the arbour from the machine spindle. (You should have received a tapered metal drift with the machine. Fully extend the drill feed and you should notice two oblong slots in the spindle wall. Rotate the shaft until you can see clear through the spindle between the slots, insert the drift through the slot, and gently release the feed to retract the spindle. When the drift contacts the drill housing, the drift will release the arbour. Catch it before it lands on anything hard. Remove the drift from the slot and release the feed arm.)

Place the arbour into a freezer for a couple of hours and warm the chuck as much as possible without applying direct heat. ie, sit on a windowsill in warm sun or keep in heated room.

After ensuring that the chuck jaws are fully retracted, place it on a piece of wood, locate the arbour taper in the chuck reccess, and give it one light tap with a piece of wood or a light soft mallet to seat it. Allow a couple of minutes for the chuck and arbour to stabilise to room temperature, and reinsert into drill spindle.

The arbour tang is the flat section at the top of the taper, it fits into a recess in the spindle, and is what the drift pushes onto when releasing the chuck as explained above. When inserting the arbour, you may have to rotate it relative to the spindle up to half a turn while gently pushing upwards into the spindle. You will feel when the tang engages into its reccess, and the arbour will move further into the spindle and seat itself.

If there is any tendancy for the arbour to unseat and loosen, retract the chuck jawsfully into the housing and place a piece of softwood or a rubber mallet on the table, lower the chuck until it makes contact,, and apply moderate pressure to the feed system. This will keep the applied pressure axial to the spindle and presserve accuracy.

Disregard the info previously posted about the chuck and arbour. If you want to use a different chuck at any stage, locate a suitable chuck and get an arbour to match the chuck with the correct Morse taper for the drill spindle. That way, changing chucks is a 30 second exercise and accuracy is maintained if the arbour and spindle ar kept clean.
 
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