PowerTool
Established Member
Excellent pieces,Tam - love the shape,style,and finish of both 
Andrew
Andrew
My BITS and BOBS (to be continued)
- Thread starter TEP
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Bodrighy
Established Member
Just when I feel I am getting somewhere someon comes along and bursts my bubble.
I look forward to when I can 'mess around' as well as you
Pete
I look forward to when I can 'mess around' as well as you
Pete
Thanks people! Just felt happy I got a few hours at a lathe without 'er indoors asking me to drop it and do something else.
Nearly there though, just a few bricks to lay, 3 windows to fit, and sort my allotment out, depending on some better weather, then I'll be back in my garage hiding from 'er. :twisted:
Nearly there though, just a few bricks to lay, 3 windows to fit, and sort my allotment out, depending on some better weather, then I'll be back in my garage hiding from 'er. :twisted:
mrs. sliver
Established Member
How come you get those from 'messing about', and I get mainly sawdust and firewood :?: :shock:
Bodrighy
Established Member
Don't worry about it Tam, many of us accept that you are streets ahead of us.... we'll get there some day :lol:
Pete
Pete
mrs. sliver
Established Member
Cheer up Pete, at least we get the stems on our goblets straight! :lol: :lol:
No worries Tam! they is lovely bits o' wood!!
No worries Tam! they is lovely bits o' wood!!
Not posted anything on this post for a while, but the subject of hollowing came up the other day, and I said I had made myself a "Snake" hollowing rig. Thought I would put up a few photo's of my interpretation of it.
Fixed onto the lathe
1/2" boring bar
I also made a 5/8" end so as I can use thicker/longer boring bars when needed. The larger end is the piece lying on the lathe bed.
Full rig so you can see all the bits.
I have got a job on at the moment, but as soon as I find the time I will be constructing a overhead laser carrier for sizing the finishing cuts on the walls of the hollow form. When made it will mount on the bar carrier just behind the boring bar locking bolts.
Fixed onto the lathe
1/2" boring bar
I also made a 5/8" end so as I can use thicker/longer boring bars when needed. The larger end is the piece lying on the lathe bed.Full rig so you can see all the bits.
I have got a job on at the moment, but as soon as I find the time I will be constructing a overhead laser carrier for sizing the finishing cuts on the walls of the hollow form. When made it will mount on the bar carrier just behind the boring bar locking bolts.
Paul.J
Established Member
Looks good Tam :shock:
Looks a bit like my extension arm for my control box :lol:
What sort of depth will this go too,comfortably :?:
Pity you didn't bring this to the bash last year :wink:
Looks a bit like my extension arm for my control box :lol:
What sort of depth will this go too,comfortably :?:
Pity you didn't bring this to the bash last year :wink:
Hi Tom, Paul.
Bring it to the bash 08? :shock: . Only finished it a couple of days ago. Depth, I don't think it will hollow any deeper than my existing hand tools. I have got 1/2" - 5/8" and 3/4" hollowing bars, some I'll keep as hand tools and some I will convert to fit into the new 'snake'. I believe the benefit is that the rig will take all the force of the hollowing and all I have to do is guide the cutting tip. Lazy or what :lol: ?
What I intend doing is still use my hand tools to hollow down to a fair wall size, then fit the rig and take the walls down to a consistent thickness. Up until now I have only tried it on a flat blank while I was setting up the joints, you need to balance tightness of the bolts against chattering if they are too slack.
I won't use it properly until I make the laser guide for it, got all the bits, just need the time. :roll:
My original plan was to build a captured 'D' hollowing set up, but when I found this I decided it looked a lot better. We'll see once I get at it, I reckon it should be good for 12" deep if I am careful, of course that would be with a 3/4" bar fitted.
I believe if you wish to go any deeper you really need a captured 'D' set up, and a big heavy one. Something in the region of 35 - 50mm hollow tube, otherwise you would end up with chatter all the time.
Bring it to the bash 08? :shock: . Only finished it a couple of days ago. Depth, I don't think it will hollow any deeper than my existing hand tools. I have got 1/2" - 5/8" and 3/4" hollowing bars, some I'll keep as hand tools and some I will convert to fit into the new 'snake'. I believe the benefit is that the rig will take all the force of the hollowing and all I have to do is guide the cutting tip. Lazy or what
:lol: ?What I intend doing is still use my hand tools to hollow down to a fair wall size, then fit the rig and take the walls down to a consistent thickness. Up until now I have only tried it on a flat blank while I was setting up the joints, you need to balance tightness of the bolts against chattering if they are too slack.
I won't use it properly until I make the laser guide for it, got all the bits, just need the time. :roll:
My original plan was to build a captured 'D' hollowing set up, but when I found this I decided it looked a lot better. We'll see once I get at it, I reckon it should be good for 12" deep if I am careful, of course that would be with a 3/4" bar fitted.
I believe if you wish to go any deeper you really need a captured 'D' set up, and a big heavy one. Something in the region of 35 - 50mm hollow tube, otherwise you would end up with chatter all the time.
Paul.J
Established Member
Oh
Will look forward to the results Tam
Some of you may have seen a post from a student asking if we could help.
Sent Tim a PM and received back a representation of the shape of the item, and a spread sheet with all the station diameters on it. Like every millimetre, from one end to the other.
Quite intrigued with the idea of working to strict measurements I asked if the sizes could be redone at 1cm stations. A few hours later the new spreadsheet file was on my computer.
I had a couple of turning jobs to do over the next few days, finished one. Then received a phone call and had to put the second off, so I decided to make a start on the 'horn'.
If I had possessed a thicknesser it would have been easy, as it was I had to thickness each layer on the lathe. Fairly easy with two lathes. Cut the blanks 5mm over size for thickness, the wide end I had to butt join two pieces for the width. I had been given the option of using MDF, but I hate that stuff and the mess it makes so used Sycamore. After gluing I mounted the piece on a screw chuck, trued up one face and cut a recess for my chuck. Mounted the blank in the chuck trued the second face then measuring carefully took it down the 30mm thick from the start mark. Cleaned up the outer edge to the widest dimension on the spreadsheet. Then finally turned a small 2mm deep recess in the centre.
Mounted the next piece between centres, trued up one face with a spigot to fit the recess in the last piece, and glued together. Once dry I trued up the next face at 30mm thickness, also leaving a small register recess for the next piece.
I continued in this vein leaving each layers diameter as per drawing, until I had built up the full size.
Looking at what I had left I decided I could manage to form the full shape by eye, working from 20mm stations, so I commenced to measure and use a parting tool until I had a width station at every 20mm along the length.(Some where 10mm apart because of the 30mm layers) I then rechecked the measurements twice more before I picked up my gouge.
I ripped the wood away until I was left with the basic horn shape, but still wearing a row of 'V' cuts of which the base of the cuts were the station marks. I then proceeded to gently work away with the long edge of the bowl gouge, slowly matching the form to the corners of my station marks. Until I was finally left with this.
I quite enjoyed the challenge, but there was a couple of heart stopping moments when I though I had taken too much off, but it was all OK. The turning part was fairly easy, the hardest part was getting all the stations correct first, so I spent a lot more time than I should checking. But at least I didn't have to re-do it. 8)
Sent Tim a PM and received back a representation of the shape of the item, and a spread sheet with all the station diameters on it. Like every millimetre, from one end to the other.
Quite intrigued with the idea of working to strict measurements I asked if the sizes could be redone at 1cm stations. A few hours later the new spreadsheet file was on my computer.
I had a couple of turning jobs to do over the next few days, finished one. Then received a phone call and had to put the second off, so I decided to make a start on the 'horn'.
If I had possessed a thicknesser it would have been easy, as it was I had to thickness each layer on the lathe. Fairly easy with two lathes. Cut the blanks 5mm over size for thickness, the wide end I had to butt join two pieces for the width. I had been given the option of using MDF, but I hate that stuff and the mess it makes so used Sycamore. After gluing I mounted the piece on a screw chuck, trued up one face and cut a recess for my chuck. Mounted the blank in the chuck trued the second face then measuring carefully took it down the 30mm thick from the start mark. Cleaned up the outer edge to the widest dimension on the spreadsheet. Then finally turned a small 2mm deep recess in the centre.
Mounted the next piece between centres, trued up one face with a spigot to fit the recess in the last piece, and glued together. Once dry I trued up the next face at 30mm thickness, also leaving a small register recess for the next piece.
I continued in this vein leaving each layers diameter as per drawing, until I had built up the full size.
Looking at what I had left I decided I could manage to form the full shape by eye, working from 20mm stations, so I commenced to measure and use a parting tool until I had a width station at every 20mm along the length.(Some where 10mm apart because of the 30mm layers) I then rechecked the measurements twice more before I picked up my gouge.
I ripped the wood away until I was left with the basic horn shape, but still wearing a row of 'V' cuts of which the base of the cuts were the station marks. I then proceeded to gently work away with the long edge of the bowl gouge, slowly matching the form to the corners of my station marks. Until I was finally left with this.
I quite enjoyed the challenge, but there was a couple of heart stopping moments when I though I had taken too much off,
but it was all OK. The turning part was fairly easy, the hardest part was getting all the stations correct first, so I spent a lot more time than I should checking. But at least I didn't have to re-do it. 8)Paul.J
Established Member
That seemed easy enough than Tam :shock: :lol:
PowerTool
Established Member
Well done,both on the piece itself,and being able to help out
I know what you mean about the heart-stopping moments - at college,I had a similar experience with a very large and expensive piece of phosphor bronze (only had one piece,so couldn't re-do it :shock: ) and a metalworking lathe;thought I had overdone it,but thankfully hadn't.. [-o<
Andrew
I know what you mean about the heart-stopping moments - at college,I had a similar experience with a very large and expensive piece of phosphor bronze (only had one piece,so couldn't re-do it :shock: ) and a metalworking lathe;thought I had overdone it,but thankfully hadn't.. [-o<
Andrew
Thanks Paul, [-( :wink:, and thanks Andrew, it made a change from just rattling things off the lathe. Had to put the old grey matter to the test for a bit. Mind you I didn't do it for nothing, but neither did I rob the guy.
but neither did I rob the guy.
Bodrighy
Established Member
I have nothing but admiration for anyone who works to measurements. Still don't know what it is but looks as though you did a good job Tam
Pete
Pete
Thanks Pete. You asked about it before. It is solid and to be used as a mould for fibreglass. Don't really know what the finished article is for but will ask Tim when next I am in contact, just to satisfy our curiosity.
All I do know at this point is it is part of a university project. Didn't need to know any more really, all I had to do was make the pattern.
PS = This is what the mould is being used for.
All I do know at this point is it is part of a university project. Didn't need to know any more really, all I had to do was make the pattern.
PS = This is what the mould is being used for.
Woodmagnet
Established Member
- Joined
- 23 Jan 2006
- Messages
- 1,668
- Reaction score
- 0
Looks like a mould for "Traffic Cones" Tam. :lol:
:lol:
Bodrighy
Established Member
Ah, speaker cones. Now I understand
Pete
Pete
