Multiplane cutting depth

[mr]

I need to cut some 5 mm rebates to fit the back panel into a pine bookcase. Planning to do this with my Record 405 which will be its first outing since I bought it. What sort of depth should I be looking to make on each pass. Im not going to be able to take a 5mm cut from the outset so it will be a series of passes of ? mm.

Cheers Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Mike,

I usually find that thin shavings work better than thick ones, but the best bet is to try it out on a scrap of wood and see what feels best. Thin shavings give better control. Make sure that the blade is positioned properly in the plane and that the skates are not outside the width of the blade.

One other point, the standard way to plane with these planes is to start at the far end and work backwards. However, Jake Darvall posted recently that he started at the near end and worked forwards as with a conventional plane because he didn't know otherwise. Well, I tried it Jake's way recently and it worked well :?

Make sure the blade is sharp and keep pressure sideways on the fence. Let's know how you get on - the #405 is really nice when you get to know it 8) 8)

Cheers

Paul

 

[mr]

I could just dig the router out but its a horrible noisy nasty messy unpleasant thing, the 405 looks like a much nicer piece of kit. Mine needs a thorough clean up before I do anything with it, it seems to be completely new as in still coated in the factory grease with all the blades still in their wrappers untouched. I'm quite looking forward to having a play. Having never used one before experimentation first is definitely order of the day.

Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

Sounds like a good buy, Mike. Definitely play with it and get used to it - I think a lot of people dismiss it too easily as complicated and cumbersome, but it's really nice when you get used to it. Have you seen Jake Darvall's stuff on the Aussie forum about multiplanes? Really inspirational stuff 8) 8)

Cheers

Paul

 

[Alf]

Ah Mike, you're thinking like a router user. :wink: It's a plane - you set it to cut a comfortable shaving and the depth stop to the finished depth and just plane away until the depth stop, well, stops you. Personally I try to use as thick a shaving as I can get away with, but experiment 'cos it depends on the wood. There's is no right way - just a way that works.

Cheers, Alf

 

[mr]

Hi Paul
No I havent come Jakes Darvalls stuff, I havent looked at the australian forum in any great depths, one of these nights Ill dive in. Though Ill go and have a look for the stuff you mention sooner rather than later.

Alf, I had a feeling that might be the case but having not played with the thing as yet didnt realise that the depth stop and blade projection settings are different. Of course that all makes sense Hopefully Ill get a chance tonight to clean the thing up and put it all together.

ttfn Mike

 

[woodbloke]

mr - agreed, routers are horrible, nasty and noisy but they can save allot of hassle if used correctly. I would also agree that a plough or combo plane is a pleasant way to produce a rebate or groove...however it's a bit more tricky, though not too difficult, to make a stopped groove which is where a router scores. On the elm chest that I'm currently making, the back has been simply routed in with a rebate bearing cutter once the carcass has been glued up and the back levelled. I may leave the corners round or square them out, haven't decided yet. Using the router took about 10 mins and just cut out allot of the element of risk in doing this particular part of the job. Just some thoughts - be good to see some pics of your project when its done, or some WIP pics - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

Mike,

Here's a couple to be getting on with http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=34243

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=36767

I find that Jake is excellent at analysing why some things work and others don't, and what to do about it if they don't. Reckon you'll enjoy his stuff now you've got a #405.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS Don't get put off by his tendency to take an angle grinder to his tools, it's all done with the best of intentions

 

[JesseM]

I am still learning this tool myself but I have to second on taking Jake's advice. It really is inspirational. My first combo/multi plane was a sergent 1080. It didn't work well and according to others here has some flaws. So I got myself a 45 and and 46 and have had a much better experience. Plowing should be easy going. Just make sure the blade is ultra sharp, and I would take as little as possible at first to get the groove going then increase if necessary. You may want to increase the size of your fence per Jake's advice. It really helps with lateral stability.

The 46 makes plowing very easy. I have only been practicing with it, but it just glides through the wood. I would really love to see a newer version of this plane. Good luck!

 

[bugbear]

The 46 makes plowing very easy. I have only been practicing with it, but it just glides through the wood. I would really love to see a newer version of this plane. Good luck!

The newer versions are (rumoured to be...) coming, but I suspect I (for one) won't like the prices.

In truth, I have enough cheap, old, tools to address most requirments (*)

BugBear

(*) tool count rather high, requirments rather few

 

[JesseM]

The 46 makes plowing very easy. I have only been practicing with it, but it just glides through the wood. I would really love to see a newer version of this plane. Good luck!

The newer versions are (rumoured to be...) coming, but I suspect I (for one) won't like the prices.

In truth, I have enough cheap, old, tools to address most requirments (*)

BugBear

(*) tool count rather high, requirments rather few

Really. Its such a useful plane that I think I won't be able to resist Contigent on there being some sort of improvement of course.