Multico TM3 Tenoner
- Thread starter elder
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
katellwood
Established Member
multico-tenoner-restoration-t62806.html
This was my efforts when I turned a TM3 to a single phase one with new motors
The two most important settings is that the sliding table is parallel to the top and bottom of the cutter blocks (this is adjusted underneath the sliding table on one set of bearings) and the fence on the sliding table is 90 degrees to the cut
For a quick setup if it has the old (and illegal blocks) remove the knives. Then lightly sandwich a prepared (straight and parallel) piece of timber between the blocks. You can then parallel the table up to this piece of timber by adjusting the bearings on one of the bed bars underneath the table. fine tune with a digital vernier if you have one. then cut a tenon and confirm the cheeks of the tenon are parallel with the face of the timber. If you don't do this and the table is out, doors etc made with this machine will be in twist
For the fence you can either carry out a cut and check with an engineers square or alternatively place a square on the table against the fence and rub it up against the block
Scott and Sargeant possibly do a handbook however they are such a simple machine setup is easy, any problems get back to me and I wil try to help further and remember as the adjusting screws have a 2mm pitch each full turn adjusts the blocks up/down or in/out 2mm
good luck
This was my efforts when I turned a TM3 to a single phase one with new motors
The two most important settings is that the sliding table is parallel to the top and bottom of the cutter blocks (this is adjusted underneath the sliding table on one set of bearings) and the fence on the sliding table is 90 degrees to the cut
For a quick setup if it has the old (and illegal blocks) remove the knives. Then lightly sandwich a prepared (straight and parallel) piece of timber between the blocks. You can then parallel the table up to this piece of timber by adjusting the bearings on one of the bed bars underneath the table. fine tune with a digital vernier if you have one. then cut a tenon and confirm the cheeks of the tenon are parallel with the face of the timber. If you don't do this and the table is out, doors etc made with this machine will be in twist
For the fence you can either carry out a cut and check with an engineers square or alternatively place a square on the table against the fence and rub it up against the block
Scott and Sargeant possibly do a handbook however they are such a simple machine setup is easy, any problems get back to me and I wil try to help further and remember as the adjusting screws have a 2mm pitch each full turn adjusts the blocks up/down or in/out 2mm
good luck
merlin
Established Member
Hello Bob,
Have a look on ebay as Scott and Sargeant sell them on there for £5 inc postage, I bought one a while ago and although not all that much information it is useful.
Merlin
Have a look on ebay as Scott and Sargeant sell them on there for £5 inc postage, I bought one a while ago and although not all that much information it is useful.
Merlin
One thing to look out for when setting up the table, is that the fence must be at 90 degrees to the two rails the table runs on. If its not, you will end up with a shoulder that is deeper at one end than the other. The original fence would have been set, drilled and pinned to ensure this alignment. When I bought my machine the bearing holders under the table had been taken off and replaced in the wrong locations which is why I think it was sold. I worked out the sequence of possible locations and just bolted them off and on until it came good. Far easier and better than re-drilling and pegging the fence. I used a square against the rails to check that the alignment.
Hi Deema,
New here - hopefully you can help me - as I have a TM3 as well and I think maybe the bearings on the sliding table are either the wrong size or installed incorrectly! - Would you be able to help and do you have a picture perhaps please?
Kind regards,
Tim
New here - hopefully you can help me - as I have a TM3 as well and I think maybe the bearings on the sliding table are either the wrong size or installed incorrectly! - Would you be able to help and do you have a picture perhaps please?
Kind regards,
Tim
johnnyb
Established Member
all the bearings wereceasily available from ebay as were the belts. I love mine tbh as it makes joinery relatively simple . I planed a tapered piece of 12mm ply to make the fence perfect(only a smidge off). im going to make some simple gauges to aid set up.
Thanks Jonny, I have replaced the bearings but I am unsure if they are in the right place or the right size for that matter - there is a canned mounting but I am not sure where it definitely goes and with a photo of the underneath of someone's TM3 sliding table which bearing mountings are cammed and can therefore be adjusted. Essentially whilst my is square to the heads it isn't parallel to the cutter blocks so produces tenon shoulder's that aren't quite square? Help!¬ 
I have come across at least three if not four variations of how the bearings in the table are attached / adjusted. There are both 3 sets of bearings and 4 sets of bearing variants as well as adjustable and none adjustable variants.
The procedure to set them up is the same for all apart from the none adjustable variant, however how you adjust them does vary. You need a large engineers square, something to accurately measure a reference height such as a clock and a parallel. (Can be an accurately planed piece of timber but an engineers parallel is best)
I remove the parallel bars with the table attached by removing the 4 cap headed bolts that secure the cast iron ends that hold the bars and secure them down to the frame of the machine. Make sure the grub screws holding the bars int9 the cast iron ends are tight. When lifting it all off one at either end is a good idea along with securing the table to one end.
Note 1: the fence is pinned to the table, so unless it’s bent, it can be set true to the bars.
Note 2: the column that supports the heads is pinned to the frame. Unless the frame has been bent (which I’ve seen) it should be vertical to the bars and the bars perpendicular to it.
1. Place the parallel on the two bars, measure the height of the table to the parallel at all four corners. Adjust the bearing cam that holds the bearing that touches the top of each bar until all 4 corners are the same height from the parallel.
2. place the square on a rail and check that the front edge of the sliding table is sqaure and true (assuming that the fence is square and true to the table. If not use an adjustable square to measure how far out the fence is and use this as the defence for the side of the table.
now adjust the bearings that touch the sides of the bars to move the table into true.
3. Repeat steps 1 & 2 until no further deviation is seen. By adjusting the side movement of the table you can affect where the top bearing is touching the bar.
If you have a variant that isn’t adjustable and the table is out, remove the blocks from the table that hold the bearing / spindles. Mark up each location and each block. Create a table with every permutation of where the blocks can be positioned (either 9 or 16 locations depending on whether you have 3 or 4 blocks) now go through the process of attaching the blocks in each sequence and checking with a parallel and square as in 1 & 2 above to see if the table comes true. It will on one permutation, if your lucky it the first you try!
I’m sorry, I don’t have any photos of the underside of the tables to show all the variant.
The procedure to set them up is the same for all apart from the none adjustable variant, however how you adjust them does vary. You need a large engineers square, something to accurately measure a reference height such as a clock and a parallel. (Can be an accurately planed piece of timber but an engineers parallel is best)
I remove the parallel bars with the table attached by removing the 4 cap headed bolts that secure the cast iron ends that hold the bars and secure them down to the frame of the machine. Make sure the grub screws holding the bars int9 the cast iron ends are tight. When lifting it all off one at either end is a good idea along with securing the table to one end.
Note 1: the fence is pinned to the table, so unless it’s bent, it can be set true to the bars.
Note 2: the column that supports the heads is pinned to the frame. Unless the frame has been bent (which I’ve seen) it should be vertical to the bars and the bars perpendicular to it.
1. Place the parallel on the two bars, measure the height of the table to the parallel at all four corners. Adjust the bearing cam that holds the bearing that touches the top of each bar until all 4 corners are the same height from the parallel.
2. place the square on a rail and check that the front edge of the sliding table is sqaure and true (assuming that the fence is square and true to the table. If not use an adjustable square to measure how far out the fence is and use this as the defence for the side of the table.
now adjust the bearings that touch the sides of the bars to move the table into true.
3. Repeat steps 1 & 2 until no further deviation is seen. By adjusting the side movement of the table you can affect where the top bearing is touching the bar.
If you have a variant that isn’t adjustable and the table is out, remove the blocks from the table that hold the bearing / spindles. Mark up each location and each block. Create a table with every permutation of where the blocks can be positioned (either 9 or 16 locations depending on whether you have 3 or 4 blocks) now go through the process of attaching the blocks in each sequence and checking with a parallel and square as in 1 & 2 above to see if the table comes true. It will on one permutation, if your lucky it the first you try!
I’m sorry, I don’t have any photos of the underside of the tables to show all the variant.
