More turnings from Duncan

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As always your work is well worth the wait Duncan. Very nice eye candy!

Can you tell me, what size Kelton are you using? Have decided to treat myself, but I still have some doubts as most of the work I get offered these days seems to be spindle turning. (For other folks). Yet I still want to do more hollow/bowl work for myself.
 
Something to emulate methinks . I especially like the flatter pieces. I do hope you are going to enter the competition in the expert category or none of us stand a chance :lol:

Pete
 
Thanks for the kind comments everyone :oops:

Jenx - the pyrography was designed on paper after I printed out some circular grids. It then took many hours sat in front of the tv to complete (luckily I live on my own so can get away with this :) ). I had to stop regularly to give my hands and eyes a rest.

TEP -I have the standard Kelton coring set. I've only once hit it's upper limit once, but that was also the upper limit of the lathe as well so I doubt I'll hit it again. I've only felt the need to go smaller a couple of times, but I have one of the older sets and it can't take the smallest cutters. Unfortunately I don't use the corer that often so have never felt completely confident with not going through the bottom. I now have the laser guide, which helps a lot.

Paul - the flat pieces aren't actually flat, but gently curved. It was hard to get the profile and the overall shape in the same shot so I just went for the shape.
I can't remember exactly, but I probably ...

1) held them to start with on a screw chuck (or maybe on expanding pin jaws) and turned a slightly oversize contracting dovetail on the base.
2) reversed and held by dovetail on the base. Turned a dovetail on the top where the screw chuck/hole had been holding. At this point I took off material from the top to establish the approximate top surface.
3) reversed again, (resized the dovetail on the base if it had gone off-centre),
4) turned as you normally would - shape the base etc.

Each was turned from a slab through a crotch and I prefer not to turn the bottom completely on the screw chuck because the wood was very unbalanced and the dovetail is more secure.


Pete - I'm planning to enter the comp., and probably in expert. I just need to choose something to make.
 
A few experimental items made from parts of a cherry tree from my sister's garden. All turned wet...


19cm long



19cm wide. Turned slightly off centre in an attempt to get it to lean. Not off centre enough



21cm long. Turned off centre (quite a propeller!). I think this is my favourite from my recent work



21cm longest length. I changed my mind halfway through this and decided to make it a reversible bowl type thing which could be used wither way up. There was probably a reason for it, but I can't remember now. I think it would have been better as just a plain bowl/platter.



19cm widest. This was reasonably flat on top but the small branch has warped downwards quite a bit. The pattern in the exposed heartwood on the base has given ideas for more projects.



18cm diameter



18 cm diameter. I can't remember what the initial plan was for this, but I remember changing plan part way through.


That's all for now

Duncan
 
Not only is the quality of your work excellent but the design (even if you do change plans 1/2 way through :lol: ) is always something different. I like the combination of natural wood with the turned areas and all of these pieces have that look of being made fromn a natural piece of wood if that makes sense. Individual and beautiful.

Pete
 
Duncan.
Are you trying to scare the opposition off by showing these stunning pieces.I think it might work :lol: :lol:
I can't wait to see what the advanced cat shows up.Looking forward to it :D
 
Something completely different for me, and a real challenge.



These were turned for a friend to replace the mallets from an old Victorian set that had finally broken beyond repair.

The heads are hard maple and the handles are ash. Total length is 94cm.
When I ordered the timber the supplier actually had some wood that had been ordered in to make croquet mallet heads. For the handles I just request straight grained ash (as I'd read somewhere that it was fairly flexible and well suited). What I got was some beautiful grain and some really attractive figuring. One of them is olive ash and has rippling through the widest part, one has an area of small knots and some rippling near the top of the handle, and the other 2 have nice, clean grain with a little rippling.

The heads have some rippling and some lines of colour, and are pretty tough.


The hardest part of making them was the handles - the narrow part is only 22mm and even with a home made centre steady I was getting quite a bit of vibration. Luckily I had plenty of 80 grit to remove the resulting undulations.
The heads are fastened on using a contrasting wedge into a split in the handles.
Finished with danish oil because it'll be easy to buy when the finish needs topping up.

I don't have any croquet balls for testing them (or the space in my garden!) but they have each had several good whacks against some random lumps of wood in the garden.

Weather permitting, we'll be testing them next week.

Duncan
 
duncanh":1f2s4oxa said:
....Weather permitting, we'll be testing them next week.

Duncan

You should have a ball getting the feel for the weight and reaction of those Duncan.

Certainly more of a challenge than the simple shape would suggest, the lack of embellishments means that the subject is prone to show any imperfections.

Should bring pleasure to the users for years to come.
 
They look really good. I can only imagne how difficult it was to get 4 things that long all the same. Guess they'll have you making some spare balls next. Good game, haven't played for a few years.

Pete
 
Finally got round to uploading a shot of the mallets in use.



This was taken at a 10 day juggling convention/festival which takes place in a farmer's meadow - this year he prepared a separate mowed area to play in. The buttercups and grass round the outside made for some fun tactical play and the uneven surface made things interesting. I even made it to the final :)


My lathe is currently out of action, but here's something I made recently...


The box compartment is 8cm long. Unknown brown wood with ebonised sycamore. Wall thickness is 2mm.

It was made for the box/container competition at our club last month. I don't make many boxes and I wanted to try something different that other members maybe wouldn't think of making. I've been experimenting recently with bowls that have round bases that allow them to rock and that may what led me to this design.

Constructing the body and base was done by turning a box body as normal but without a base - this was mainly done with large saw-tooth bits (starting smaller and working up so as not to stress the wood too much). Once most of it was finished I swapped the end held in the chuck and finished inside the second end (holding was done in my long nose jaws but with the wood held inside a plastic sleeve so as not to mark it).
Once the tubes were turned they were split on the bandsaw.
The hole in the base for the box to rest on was created by putting the thin half tube back in the chuck but mounted crossgrain and protruding out so I could turn it (carefully!).

The black ends were pretty straightforward to turn but I wish that I'd done them in ebony or some other dark exotic as the ebonising didn't turn out as well as I'd hoped (I hardly do it though, so I guess I should have expected that!).

The top round knob has a small shaft on the end to help lock it and the inside rib into place - the rib is there to strengthen the lid.

The finish is acrylic lacquer.

As its the first one of these I'm kind of pleased with the result but think I can do better, especially with the finishing.

It generated some interest at the club but only came 7th (out of 19th - all entries can be seen here)

Duncan
 
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