(More) Kity 419 Saw mods

[colinc]

Hi,

a while ago I bought a 2nd hand Kity 419 and it has become a very useful part of my workshop. It is mounted in a wheeled workstation with extra table area to the right and behind and its own sliding table on the left. The biggest problem is the dust extraction so I have pulled it apart to remove the side plate of the the casing around the blade and have mounted an Axminster big mouth dust hood in the table below.

However, before reassembling everything and setting the saw up again, I thought that I would have a look at improving the blade angle adjustment to see if it could be improved as I remembered reading here that one member had modified his to use a hand wheel type adjuster instead of the existing toothed knob and quadrant rack system. Unfortunately I don't think he ever posted any pictures. I found the best clue as to what to do was in the parts diagram for the Axminster TS200/250 and my modification takes some inspiration from that.

I am quite pleased with my prototype and am posting a few pictures in case anyone else is interested.

regards

Colin

 

[colinc]

This shows the traveller attached to the motor assembly. It is made up of a 3mm plate welded to an M12 threaded rod joiner nut. The slot length needs to be 40mm centres. I will make a sketch of the parts and post it if there is any interest.

 

[colinc]

This shows the traveller with the motor assembly back in the case.

 

[colinc]

Here we have the threaded rod installed in the casing

 

[colinc]

Another. I have been using a drill to rotate the shaft. I don't know if the M12 x 1.75mm thread is ideal, coarser might be better, but was really just trying to prove the concept.

 

[colinc]

In the above you can see that the rod is held in two bearings made from a chopping board I found that looked suitable (she hasn't missed it yet!), but I will buy some industrial plastic for the final ones. At the far end I turned a small cylinder on the end of the threaded rod which sits in an 8mm hole in the bearing. That detail won't last long and will be replaced with something similar to what you see at the near end which is another rod joiner turned down to 5/8"which sits in a matching hole in the bearing and is locked to the shaft with the nut behind. It all runs quite freely and I have started making a crank handle to replace the drill. I may though try to incorporate a hex fitting into the handle so that if I get really lazy I can use my drill to do most of the cranking.

So it was all very cheap. A length of M12 rod, a bag of rod joiners, a chopping board (technically still usable as such for smaller loaves), and a few nuts and bolts. Unfortunately making it did involve a little bit of welding and machining but otherwise it was very simple to do.

regards

Colin

 

[colinc]

I did eventually create access to the traveller's connecting bolt as I have had it on and off a few times which involved dismantling the whole machine. The cutout is not visible when the yellow cover plate (the one with the quadrant rack in it) is re-fitted.

 

[Bod]

Clever idea, given me thought for mine.
What blades do you use?
I am having difficulty finding ones with a wide enough kerf for the standard riving knife.(2.8mm thick)

Bod

 

[colinc]

It came with a new Freud blade which I am using. It is thinner than standard but the previous owner had made a thinner riving knife. I would have thought you might want to do that too as the thinner blade seems a benefit. Colin

 

[Bod]

It's beginning to look as if I shall going that way too.

Bod

 

[colinc]

The prototype worked fine but the breadboard bearings were a temporary measure. Ebay provided some 15mm HDPE for the bearings and I machined some stud joiner nuts to be a smooth fit in a 16mm hole in them. I also made the slot in the traveller a bit too short originally and made another for the final fit out.

This photo shows a duplicate set of parts made to the final dimensions which is going off to another Kity owner. He was the one whose complaint about the original setup inspired me to do this modification to mine.

 

[kinverkid]

I'm going to attempt to use this method to modify my Bestcombi 2000. Can you see any problems using M16 threaded bar? I am trying to get away without buying more fittings. I have the nuts and connector nuts for M16 already so would only need to order some HDPE. I'm quite sure the set-up is the same so would you have some advice/drawings on the measurements for the traveller?

 

[REN]

A really good idea. I am considering doing this mod on my kitty 419. Whose rise and fall is getting a bit tired. Blade angle wanders a bit also.
Great stuff.

 

[kinverkid]

The prototype worked fine but the breadboard bearings were a temporary measure. Ebay provided some 15mm HDPE for the bearings and I machined some stud joiner nuts to be a smooth fit in a 16mm hole in them. I also made the slot in the traveller a bit too short originally and made another for the final fit out.

This photo shows a duplicate set of parts made to the final dimensions which is going off to another Kity owner. He was the one whose complaint about the original setup inspired me to do this modification to mine.

Have you had any feedback on how the second one is working?

 

[kinverkid]

I went ahead and made the modification to my Bestcombi 2000. I used two round thread connectors and welded a six-sided connector to the traveller. The control box is larger and in an awkward position on my machine so one of the smooth connectors rubs on it making it a little stiff but I think I can fix that. Also, the winder handle needed to be on the right of the machine so as not to block the out-feed from the thicknesser. Overall, I think it was a worthwhile modification.

 

[Dhenry]

Do you have any pictures kinverkid?

Thanks

Dave

 

[kinverkid]

Do you have any pictures kinverkid?

Thanks

Dave

I'm sorry Dave. I missed your request. I'll photograph it in the next couple of days when I will be taking the side panel off.

Gary

 

[kinverkid]

I modified my Kity Bestcombi 2000 saw section using the method from this post as a guide. I didn't use the nylon bushing though because the size of the box that holds the switches for the three functions is large and in the way which it wouldn't be on the Kity 419. I must say that it has made a huge difference and was quite easy to do following colincs instructions. It enabled me to completely replace the awful rise and fall hand wheel supplied with the machine with a much better one too.

Wished I did this years ago

 

[Dhenry]

Brilliant - thanks Gary!

 

[Treetopspider]

I modified my Kity Bestcombi 2000 saw section using the method from this post as a guide. I didn't use the nylon bushing though because the size of the box that holds the switches for the three functions is large and in the way which it wouldn't be on the Kity 419. I must say that it has made a huge difference and was quite easy to do following colincs instructions. It enabled me to completely replace the awful rise and fall hand wheel supplied with the machine with a much better one too.
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Wished I did this years ago

I'm really tempted to try this out on my 2000. The adjustment for the saw blade angle is something thats been bothering me for years.
Ive built the saw guide from plans I purchased from Steve Maskery. Its so much better than the original set up.