Mitre Square.

[Guyforks]

Hi Folks.
I've been trying to find a half decent 10" Mitre Square, one with a bit of accuracy.
I've ordered 2 from Axminster and had to send them back as the finish was quite frankly appalling.
download/file.php?mode=view&id=68992
download/file.php?mode=view&id=68993
I've just received a Joseph Marples T15 Trial 1 the 10" Mitre Square and this is where I'm confused are they supposed to be accurate on the blade angles or just the blade to stock?
Because the blade to stock internals are fine the 45s on the blade ends are shocking.
The bade ends only run for 72mm and they're out to the tune of 0.8 deg according to my GemRed and my large Woodpecker precision triangle which comes in at exactly 45deg.
download/file.php?mode=view&id=68994
download/file.php?mode=view&id=68995
Regards
Guy

 

[custard]

I agree that the finish on the Axi tools is pretty poor, but leaving aside the tear out I'm surprised just how good their Rosewood is.

On the left is slow grown Indian Rosewood, the good stuff that feels dense and oily. In the centre is Rio Rosewood, and on the right is Sonokeling Rosewood, this is what usually passes for Indian Rosewood today. By comparison with proper Indian Rosewood the plantation grown Sonokeling stuff looks bland, it's lighter in weight, doesn't feel as hard or oily, and is missing those rich dark purple tones.

So a double shame, that first class timber hasn't been treated with the care it deserves.

Anyhow, back to your question. If you need a mitre square then perhaps look at the Shinwa version here, I only use it for machine set ups but I've found it to be impressively accurate despite the modest price,

https://www.fine-tools.com/winkel-mit-gehrung.html

 

[Guyforks]

You learn something new every day.
I just emailed Joseph Marples and got this back.
-------------------
Guy,
The end of the blade you are testing in no way should be used. Can't even begin to think how you would use it. No, the 45 degree angle is between the steel blade, which has ground edges, and the brass faces.
The ends of the steel blade are sheared at that angle, which is for aesthetics/tradition only. Indeed, on some of our larger mitre squares the ends are at 90 degrees ish.

Hope that helps.

Regards,
Tony Marples

-----------------------

Well I'll be.

 

[Guyforks]

Hi Custard.
Thanks for the reply.
I had no idea that the ends weren't cut to 45.
The finish quality of the JM is really good.
I just wanted to be able to set up a table sawblade from above the blade (it's easier for me to see) then below the blade and a 10" mitre would have been perfect for that as it would span the throat plate nicely.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you wish to use the ends why not correct them?

 

[Cheshirechappie]

I'm with Phil - if you really want the end of the blade to be spot on 45 degrees, a little bit of careful work with a file and constant checking against a reference will give you that. You could do the same to the ends of the stock, too. Then you'll KNOW how accurate the tool is, and where.

 

[richarddownunder]

Hi Guy

what is the fit and finish of the Marples like otherwise? It is a easy job to true it up with a file as folk have suggested. IMHO, if you are cutting an angle on a tool used for measuring, you may as well make all faces accurately to some standard angle during manufacture otherwise this sort of thing arises.
Cheers
Richard

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Feel free to correct me but I have read that only the inside of squares are accurate - which is crepe for woodworking where the outside is used just as often.

 

[ED65]

Feel free to correct me but I have read that only the inside of squares are accurate - which is crepe for woodworking where the outside is used just as often.

Not all try squares but conventional woodworking ones were/are often like that, daft so it seems.

Apparently it's "traditional" but I think these days this is just a copout as surely it's trivial extra work for the maker to ensure the two long edges of the blade are perfectly parallel. So this strikes me as just an excuse for sloppy manufacturing standards, which we can see other examples of in the pictures above. That's hardly what I'd call a high-class tool! About what I'd expect to see on a Silverline or Am-Tech :shock:

 

[Guyforks]

Hi Folks.
The finish on the JM is really good.
I think I'll sort out the ends myself, it's just really annoying that they're like that.
The funny part about this is the Axminster own brand had really accurate 45s on the blades.
It's just a shame along with the rest of the finish they hit the edge of the blade with what looked like a linisher or something as there was an uneven chamfer along the blade end which made the TS blade look like it was out due to light hitting it differently.
No cake and eating it here.
G.

 

[AndyT]

I think you're right about linishing. You might be interested in this brief video of the Joseph Marples operation - it's clearly not easy to make tools in the UK at prices the market will bear.

https://youtu.be/9Jw6qk6GmYU

 

[Guyforks]

A file, a diamond stone and about 35 to 40 minuets .
We have a winner!!
I just wanted something repeatable and quick that I could use to set up the saw blade from the left hand side as it's easier to see.
I'm really happy with this now.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I had one of these little gems until someone decided I didn't need it any longer.
https://www.axminster.co.uk/japanese-tr ... es-ax22301
It wouldn't give you a very long base though for your usage.

 

[Racers]

I have one of these.

https://www.axminster.co.uk/japanese-mi ... are-510015

Very handy for marking an 45 deg line from an internal corner.

Pete

 

[ED65]

Nicely done Guy.

If you'd like to touch up the fresh steel on the edge you worked and you happen to have any Kurust in the house that will turn steel a blue/black colour. Not an exact match to the factory blueing but an improvement over the bright steel.