mitre board sled

devonwoody · 2 Oct 2007

My boxes are usually around 70 to 80mm high.
I'm thinking of cutting timber much harder and with more density than oak. It is possible to scratch a mark on oak with a thumbnail, but try that on some of the tropical hardwoods and you would need a manicure.

However I think you are doing exceptionally well with your cuts that you have demonstrated.

Niki · 3 Oct 2007

Good morning DW

As I promised, I made a few experiments with white Oak

I installed 80T blade and clamped the workpiece (more relaxed)

And cut. As you can see, I got severe burn marks

So, I changed the blade to 60T and cut again. Got less burn marks

I changed the blade to 34T and got even less burn marks

I cut another piece

And that how it looks

As you can see, there is some chipping at the end of the cut so, I think it's better to use backer board

Very close to perfect 45°

I got the best cut with the 34T blade (and the easiest) even though, the blade was dirty from many previous Pine cuts (the 60T and 80T were clean).

Take into account that, when you cut a 25mm thick board at 45°, the actual depth of cut is around 40mm.

I hope that somebody more knowledgeable that me will pop-in and give as some tips about cutting 45°.

Regards
niki

devonwoody · 3 Oct 2007

Your examples above show that cuts of that nature can be done with some thought put to the outcome.
I have also over the past 5 years gone through the experience of trying to improve on my woodwork hobby.
I have not seen much in local woodwork items but have been fortunate in that Australian forum members have given me upto 7 months hospitality over the past 3 years and I have seen some of their boxes and the standard they have achieved.
I confess that I am following and copying their techniquesd and they are working with similar machinery and jigs that I am striving for.
Hopefully in the near future I can display some work which I would be proud to show.

Niki · 3 Oct 2007

Hi DW

I'll tell you a secret...it's the first time in my life that I tilted the blade to 45°....never did it before so you can understand that my knowledge about these cuts is very close to zero (that's why I asked for somebody to pop-in and give some tips).

PS, If you want, I have a "step-by-step" pictures (some 50 pics) for making the sled that I'm using on the above pics.

Regards
niki

devonwoody · 8 Oct 2007

Made a box with the new sled jig this weekend, beautiful.
The four pieces fitted together and couldn't be better.
The jig is so solid with three cramps holding the timber has it passes by the blade, there is no movement or variation. The corner of timber would also do you an injury if you picked them up too tightly.

My next problem to solve is how to avoid slippage whilst waiting for glue to set, my present set up had allowed just slight overlap at corners when clamps had been taken off.
So I feel a new jig coming on. (Devonshire one

)