Memorial Garden/Park Bench - DONE

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Hudson Carpentry

Established Member
Joined
4 Nov 2010
Messages
2,289
Reaction score
0
Location
Nottingham, UK
You may get some more WIP out of me now, I still don't like using the DSLR in the shop while worked and I broke the camera in my phone, however I now have my old Fuji F700 point and shoot in there. So when im not rushing around ill grab it and try to do more WIP's.

This one was started last year. My partners Father died and she asked me to make a bench she can donate to his tennis club. Naturally im not going to say no. Its been on the back burner for a while due to paid work. She needs it done for the 5th next month so its time I got a move on!

Im at the stage where I need to machine the slats, do there M&T's, final shape of all and sand then finish.

Its all made from Iroko and started out at 175x50mm stock. 6 or 8 meters worth, I forget now but as below (just longer, this is left over).
DSCF1445.jpg


I made some templates for the shape of the rear legs, arms and top stretcher. Mainly using the band saw to shape the stock. I made the other stretchers and braces using a table saw. All these fit together with mortise and tenons.

DSCF1455.jpg


Yesterday I started with the task of making the slats. Now I wish I had just brought pre sized stock. (hammer)

As normal I set about tuning the bandsaw after putting the blade one I use for resawing. All perfect or so I think. I need these slats sawn to 20mm and need 42 of them. The first two slats seemed to take an age to resaw. The blade is new, it was the one that came with the saw so thought maybe that was it and after I had done this first block of 7 ill but another blade I have to the same specs but unopened. Now on the third and I notice somethings not cutting true. Check the fence is running parallel to the blade which it was and assumed I must of moved the timber and not realised. I flipped the timber over so the opposite and straight edge is riding the fence and continued. I got two more slats and started the 6th to which the problem became apparent.

DSCF1436.jpg
DSCF1437.jpg


The timber under its natural pressure release was moving. In the second picture you can see the gap where the cut was started and the only path the timber was letting the saw take (hammer) .

Anyhow, a little annoyed I machined some more Iroko to the side length I needed for the slats, put it though the planner and sanded it as I did all the others and set about putting a thin kerf blade in the table saw to tackle this movement issue with a resawing method designed to counter it. I now machined all 42 slats by running each piece over the saw blade 6 times which the blade at a different height each pass. This taken some time and also had its risks. There was one drama where cutting close to the centre the timber popped with some force. It split down some where I had nearly cut through in the last two passes under its own tension release. It was so forceful it broken the end off my push stick.

(again this was yesterday, i was taking pictures today so if I remember ill get a pic of the damage to the plastic push stick)
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1445.jpg
    DSCF1445.jpg
    103.3 KB
  • DSCF1436.jpg
    DSCF1436.jpg
    112.1 KB
  • DSCF1437.jpg
    DSCF1437.jpg
    112.3 KB
  • DSCF1455.jpg
    DSCF1455.jpg
    70.2 KB
I finished the day by sanding and routing the ends of the slats round.

Here is 1 of the two piles.

DSCF1430.jpg


Today was M&T day. I wanted a 12mm tenon (so I could use a 12mm mortise chisel and save time faffing at the mortise =D> )
So after working out my other tenon dimensions I set the band saw up to do the cheek cuts.

DSCF1431.jpg


I used a block as a stop so I didn't have to measure and mark each piece of timber. I then used the TS with a mitre slot to do the cross cuts.

DSCF1433.jpg


After doing the maths for the slat spacing I thought I would test this to make sure I am right. Using spacers I made up the 16mm which is to be the gap distance and used a laggy band to keep them together. I kept each slat in place using spring clamps.

DSCF1441.jpg


For them that live in France, these spring clamps are from Brico Depót. While working in France last year I saw these in Brico (a shop I can't stand) and though a pack size of 6 for 5€ ish was good value if there any good, so I brought a pack and tested them when back on site. They are quite good, very strong & seem well built. So on our next visit I cleared the shelf :D Still nearly a year on, I use these often and not a single one has broken in anyway. I plan to get more this year (hammer)

Happy with the slat placement I mark off, remove the stretcher and head to the work bench to mark for the mortises.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1430.jpg
    DSCF1430.jpg
    99.1 KB
  • DSCF1431.jpg
    DSCF1431.jpg
    104.3 KB
  • DSCF1433.jpg
    DSCF1433.jpg
    139.4 KB
  • DSCF1442.jpg
    DSCF1442.jpg
    116.1 KB
  • DSCF1441.jpg
    DSCF1441.jpg
    106.3 KB
So to the mortiser. I set it up with the 12mm chisel and place the stoppers to make sure it plunges to the correct depth. I really like the XY morisers. It saves messing about and speeds things up quite well. I was able to do 3 mortisers before having to remove the stock and reposition.

DSCF1443.jpg


Although after the first I removed to test the fit.

DSCF1444.jpg


All be a 1mm out, its a perfect fit, after final sanding the slats will be flush with the stretcher.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1443.jpg
    DSCF1443.jpg
    117.6 KB
  • DSCF1444.jpg
    DSCF1444.jpg
    116.4 KB
Last weekend I set to making the rest.

I would out the angle of the tenon shoulder cut using a set square set and an off cut slat. Top 3deg and bottom 6deg.
I cut all the slats for the back the same way just at angels.

Mortising the top stretcher posed some issues. Normally you would cut a bit of wood at an angel and place that on the mortise bed. However as the top stretcher is shaped with a nice big hump this not only wouldn't work it would be quite dangerous.

The solution, two bits of wood cut at an angel and placed between the fence and clamp so it sandwiches the stretcher and holds it tight at the angle.

DSCF1452.jpg


Once both stretchers have the mortises I sand down all 53 pieces to 120grit using at first a belt sander to remove the pencil marks then a palm sander. This gave me chance to really test the Velcro sand paper I brought for the Bosch palm sanders (If you remember I asked where to get decent paper to fit these sanders in a different thread - The paper I brought im quite happy with!). I now also shape the arms and legs to there final shape.

The dry assembly gave me reason to tidy my work bench. it was a right mess with very little room to work on.

DSCF1457.jpg


The dry assembly went well, alittle tweeking of tenons on a couple of slats and some clapping pressure was required to pull some M&T's inline.

This is the "unfinished" result dry assembled.
DSCF1459.jpg


I de-assembled and hit the arms and legs with some glue and leave them to cure overnight. Next morning I glue the stretchers to the ends and clamp it over night with some very large heavy T cramps. The slats are free to move for expansion so no glue.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1452.jpg
    DSCF1452.jpg
    83.6 KB
  • DSCF1457.jpg
    DSCF1457.jpg
    75.9 KB
  • DSCF1459.jpg
    DSCF1459.jpg
    88.5 KB
Today was the day the bench is to be presented and the ashes scattered.

Over the last week it had oiled 6 times with teak oil and fitted the brass plack.

irokoBenchArm.jpg
irokoBench.jpg


If you would like to read the story behind the bench and the person its in memory of, you can do so by clicking the following link. There are also more pictures on there. http://hudsoncarpentry.co.uk/kelvinBlog.php
 

Attachments

  • irokoBench.jpg
    irokoBench.jpg
    177.7 KB
  • irokoBenchArm.jpg
    irokoBenchArm.jpg
    96.4 KB
Nice Bench, I like it.

I have a job coming up, to be made in Iroko, Personally I hate machining this stuff, I think I may be allergic or something, even with dust extraction, ventilation and a dust mask, it still hurts my nose and I can feel it in my lungs, am not looking forward to it, anyway I was going varnish said piece, but after seeing the the finish with teak oil, I might well use that instead.
Do you know roughly how long 6 coats of teak oil will last before it needs re-applying and how long should you leave between applications?
 
Cheers Guys

DOOGYREV":1a86dlan said:
Nice Bench, I like it.

I have a job coming up, to be made in Iroko, Personally I hate machining this stuff, I think I may be allergic or something, even with dust extraction, ventilation and a dust mask, it still hurts my nose and I can feel it in my lungs, am not looking forward to it, anyway I was going varnish said piece, but after seeing the the finish with teak oil, I might well use that instead.
Do you know roughly how long 6 coats of teak oil will last before it needs re-applying and how long should you leave between applications?

Im lucky that it don't effect me other then the horrid smell, saying that for most of the build I had laronjaitous (sorry no idea how to spell it) So I was waring mask and even extracting tools I normally wouldn't, what ever the wood I would have as it would irritate my throat more.

Normally I put 7 coats on but the 6th coat taken 24 hours and it still wasn't dry and you could see the surface propelling liquid so I make the decision thats its had all that it will take for now.

The first few coats you can re coat after 2 hours but the last 2-3 take longer and longer. The 4th taken a good 6 hours to dry before re coating, 5th 12 hours although it was slightly oily on the surface which I just wiped down and the 6th as above again wiping down. In the first few coats what ever the project I don't tend to wipe off the access after 10mins or more when using oil. I like it to stay on the surface and continue to soak in.

Given that its Iroko and teak oil I would give it a life span of 10-20 years but regardless of finish I always recommend you re coat any outdoor timber yearly. If maintained correctly I can see it lasting 50 years+ with one recoat a year. The surface before Oil was silk smooth and it remained that way. The most popular thing people was saying after I had done a great job was that how smooth it was. I expected the oil to lift some of the grain so a wire or sand between coats would be required but I didn't touch it with any sander or wool after the first coat of oil as it just stayed smooth.

Although I hate machining Iroko (smell and toughness) I love the finish and look. I wish I had taken photo's of each coat to show the difference. Once the client had seen the dry assembled bench they wanted to keep the wood as it. I explained that the only way to keep its current colour would be to varnish it. However this will still alter the shade slightly and once the varnish is chipped the wood has no protection. But after each coat went on the shade and features became nicer and nicer. Client loved the finished colour more.

I have been using teak oil alot lately, 3 external doors an outdoor dining table, sand pit etc etc. I can get the stuff for £1.99 or 3 for 2 at a local cash and carry so its not even an expense.

My next WIP I think will be the sand pit.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top