Melting Lead

[Kayen]

I would appreciate some advice.

I made a figurine/sculpture for which I turned a conical base from ABW. The figurine connects via a 2mm s/steel rod passing through the base through a 2mm hole drilled through at 5 degrees. Due of the centre of gravity, I feel I should weight the base a little.

I've got some lead (a reel of lead glazing lead) and I've got a pocket in the base into which I can pour it.

Question is, how do I melt the lead, bearing in mind I have no special equipment - other than the electric hob when the wife isn't looking!

Can anyone suggest a way to do it . . . . .

My other concern is will the wood stand up to molten lead being poured into it?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jameshow]

I'd cut the lead up, rougthen it and glue in place with epoxy.

But if you want to melt it you'll need a sand mold completely dry and some welders gloves and goggles and mask and stupidity!

 

[Cobbs]

A tin can with a handle of copper pipe (very) securely riveted on, plus a blow torch. You can form a lip in the rim of the can to help with pouring. Make sure you're well ventilated, the fumes are NOT good for you.

I suspect the wood will burn...

 

[scholar]

The way I do this is to use an old tin can (eg baked beans etc) - shape the lip a bit to make a spout - heat it over a camping gaz stove - scrape off the dross, and then pour using some long pliers (eg water pump pliers).

I have poured into wood - you can probably take it a bit at a time so the heat is not too intense.

I don’t quite envisage what the base looks like - how will you stop the lead falling out? Can you secure a screw or nail that the lead would pour around?

Cheers

 

[ChaiLatte]

If you are worried about the wood burning, make an identical mould out of some other wood. Beeswax on the mould might help as well as putting in in the freezer before pouring.

If you need the s/s rod bonded to the lead, drill the casting and epoxy the two together.

 

[MikeJhn]

Buy some BB shot and UV Resin, both available on Amazon, no heating or flames needed, did this for a fly tying base, works well.

 

[Kayen]

I'd cut the lead up, rougthen it and glue in place with epoxy.

But if you want to melt it you'll need a sand mold completely dry and some welders gloves and goggles and mask and stupidity!

I've got items two, three and four

 

[Jacob]

I would appreciate some advice.

I made a figurine/sculpture for which I turned a conical base from ABW. The figurine connects via a 2mm s/steel rod passing through the base through a 2mm hole drilled through at 5 degrees. Due of the centre of gravity, I feel I should weight the base a little.

I've got some lead (a reel of lead glazing lead) and I've got a pocket in the base into which I can pour it.

Question is, how do I melt the lead, bearing in mind I have no special equipment - other than the electric hob when the wife isn't looking!

Can anyone suggest a way to do it . . . . .

My other concern is will the wood stand up to molten lead being poured into it?

Thanks in advance.

Easy to melt the lead, best done outside on a camping stove or similar, in a small old saucepan, bean tin etc.
Not sure about pouring it into wood. What about just forming a weight which you can then insert when it's cold?
If you want a fairly precise shape make a sand mould. Ordinary builders sand very slightly damp so it'll keep its shape, in a box, press in a shape for the mould.
I've done it loads of times for sash weights.
If you make a block shape its quite easy to shape/trim with a saw, or drill if needed.

 

[Tris]

Is there enough depth in the base to just epoxy part of the coil into the recess? No heat required. You could always turn a disk to cover the lead afterwards

 

[alex robinson]

I have done something very similar when wanting turned goblets to be more stable and useable or for little sculpture mounts. I would undercut the base and put a small screw in there, partially screwed in so the lead had something to grip round. Melt lead in a tin can on the hob and pour away. A proper filter mask is obviously a good idea, and you probably don't want to be doing it all the time without good extraction, but didn't seem too much risk for the odd one off.

It will darken the wood it touches if you overheat the lead, but only on the underside where it is in direct contact. Naver had anything visible from the top.

 

[Yojevol]

I use an old aluminium saucepan with a plastic handle and heat on our kitchen gas hob. I've mainly cast into metal tubing to form cylindrical weights for clocks. I've also cast small items in wooden moulds where the wood gets singed but maintains its form long enough for the lead to solidify into the desired shape.
Brian