Melinda Box Wip - finished

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I've never used polyurethane from an aerosol before but I guess it would behave much the same as brush on.

As far as denibbin is concerned, I keep a piece of well used 240 grit for just that. I give the surface a very light sanding once the finish has had plenty of time to dry. Wipe over before you apply the next coat with a tack cloth if you have one, a damp rag if you don't.
 
You just very lightly sand, barely touching the finish. I normally sand to 240g. Apply finish. De-nib using a higher grit rating, usually at least 400g. After a few coats, de-nib again with 600 or 800g Then apply another couple of coats.

Is the spray finish water based? If so you may need to wipe the box with a damp rag, let it dry then sand again. Then start applying the finish :)
 
Also if you use wet and dry to de nib. The water lessens the scratching so making the grit effectively finer
 
Depending on what sort of finish you require, Gloss, Satin, Matt depends on what you finish it with, I presume your Poly is gloss, if it is then you will not be able to denib after your final coat if you want a gloss finish, you will have to apply in a dust free environment, room left with a closed door overnight and your box brought in, sprayed and left alone without raising any dust.
If you want a satin finish then the best way is to apply some wax over whatever base you apply, sanding sealer, oil varnish etc, you can then denib as you apply the wax with something like a Webrax pad, grey colour 1500 grit (although it is actually finer than 1500) is the cheapest way, it can be used lots of times and doesn't clog, cut one pad into inch squares and store the unused bits in a bottle / tub
Wax gives a nice tactile feel to your box, Woodwax 22 or a Microcrystaline wax is good.
I would try two or three coats of Danish and wax, if you get a run with your spray poly it's going to be a jumping up and down and teeth gnashing session.
You could finish it with Danish only but you will have to apply your first coat thick and let it soak in, subsequent coats are applied with a dust free cloth very thinly, you may need four, five or six to get a good deep sheen depending on the timber, I would still apply wax over that though.

Word of advice, don't use water on your box if you are using oil based finishes, it may get under your finish and make grey marks and cause other problems.

Andy
 
Many thanks for that. I think a step by step is just what i needed.

Any chance of a link to the webrax stuff..... Ebay preferrably ... Can't find any
 
andersonec":hdo70ybo said:
you will not be able to denib after your final coat if you want a gloss finish, you will have to apply in a dust free environment, room left with a closed door overnight and your box brought in, sprayed and left alone without raising any dust.

You can get quite a lot of dust out of the air by filling the air with steam, as the steam will kind of capture the dust and as it condenses out onto colder surfaces, it takes the dust with it. The catch is that you don't want to be doing this near any metal tools (!) and you want to let the steam thoroughly clear before spraying, because aerosols don't tend to function so well in humid air.

That said, I've sprayed polyurethane finishes pretty successfully just by spraying them then covering the thing I sprayed in a big cardboard box!




(For what it's worth, if you're willing to put the work in, though, it's definitely possible to polish up polyurethane to a glossy finish after sanding. Aircraft modellers have a process which they use for canopies which will work just as well on polyurethane - wet'n'dry up to around 2000grit, then polishing compound and elbow grease. Of course, aircraft modellers a) work on little plastic canopies around 30mm long rather than relatively giant boxes and b) happily apply a gloss varnish after the polishing anyway. But I've seen people achieve a good shine without any varnish at all.)
 
JakeS":ryss2j93 said:
(For what it's worth, if you're willing to put the work in, though, it's definitely possible to polish up polyurethane to a glossy finish after sanding. Aircraft modellers have a process which they use for canopies which will work just as well on polyurethane - wet'n'dry up to around 2000grit, then polishing compound and elbow grease. Of course, aircraft modellers a) work on little plastic canopies around 30mm long rather than relatively giant boxes and b) happily apply a gloss varnish after the polishing anyway. But I've seen people achieve a good shine without any varnish at all.)

Jake, Rustins do a burnishing cream which I suppose is a bit like T-cut.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/rustins-burn ... prod21663/

Andy
 
Melinda_dd":ugq4fs97 said:
carlb40":ugq4fs97 said:
Melinda i just typed webrax into ebay and results.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Business-Offi ... nkw=webrax

that's what i got but got confused as none say grey 1500 grit!
I think that is because those ones are velcro backed and for machines. The different coloured types are the hand sanding type
http://www.axminster.co.uk/abrasive-han ... 53859_pg1/

Have a look at the Hermes webrax, description says denibbing 1500g - grey :)
 
Melinda_dd":3349gzri said:
Little update.
The mitres aren't as accurate as i would have liked...... Not sure if this was my cutting or inacurate saw

For the next project (or maybe salvageable on this one Melinda), on long edge mitres like your box you can 'swage' the edges together using the smooth shank of a screwdriver to close the gap.
 
There was a video showing how to do that, used some wood glue and a screwdriver to burnish the corner together. Was pretty sure it featured William NG but cant find it on youtube :(
 
A little update

got my veneer yesterday and cut it to shapes last night.

Reasonably happy with it.. No gaps when put together so that's good.
I may just shoot them with a slight angle though just to make sure.

The grain is just what i wanted on the smaller...... Bit too wiggly on the bigger but never mind.
 

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Melinda_dd":1gso0299 said:
I may just shoot them with a slight angle though just to make sure.


I you are going to do that then make sure it is a very slight angle (if any) if that angle is too steep then when they are glued together they may only be touching at the top of the angle and when you sand and remove that top fraction the gap below ill show.

Andy
 
Meh, Southern softie! You don't even need a shovel to get down to that shed. I bet it's barely below freezing! :lol:
 

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