Measuring and marking

[Tusses]

I am starting to consider upping the anti and getting a bit more serious with my woodworking

at the moment I use any old cheapy tape measure for measuring and a pencil (sharp when it matters ! ) for marking.

setting up my new table saw, I am realizing how inaccurate the tape measure is. the bit on the end can go out of whack (I know I can measure further up the tape) but also the lines are quite thick. I couldn't , for instance, measure the width of the miter gauge slot accurately enough to then cut a peice of oak to fit it. Sure I could plane a bit off until it fits, it just got me thinking about measuring and marking accurately thats all.


what do you peeps use ?

do it get myself some engineering tools ? vernier .... etc ?

Ta

Rich

 

[Vikash]

My caliper is the most prized of my measuring tools. Even an old style with a dial one makes measuring easier. But perhaps all you need is a metal ruler, or a better quality measure tape A good square with measures is also very handy...

I quite like this for setting the height on the saw as well: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0

 

[OPJ]

I get along well with the Stanley tape measures. I think a 5m tape is only gonna cost you £4.99 at most. The trick when using any tape measure for any project though is to stick with the same one - even tapes from the same brand can have slight variations that can have an affect on your work.

I use a couple of steel rulers for measuring small things like mitre slots although a couple of cheap vernier calipers are great if you have them. They don't have to cost a lot of money either.

I also have a bad habit of not sharpening my pencil enough when marking out (it doesn't help that I keep dropping the thing either...) but, one tip I've picked up at college is to sharpen it on a piece of find sandpaper after you've sharpened it for an extra fine point (great for dovetails, etc.).

 

[skipdiver]

I find a Stanley tape is good enough for me.I use one on a daily basis at work so am used to their little foibles.

 

[jasonB]

Stanley tape for me, 3m does not weigh the apron pocket down too much in the workshop, but I use an 8m on site.

A 6" & 24" steel rule are handy for marking out and measuring smaller items B&Q have had some good 8" ones in their £1 bargain buckets that they charge 50p for (I got 5 of them)

For finer marking out try a cheap 0.5mm lead mechanical pencil, I have a few with Fluroescent yellow bodies but still can't always see where I put them down.

Cheap digital calipers are also handy.

Jason

 

[Tusses]

I'll have a look at a stanley tape then.

I bought a bag full of 50p tapes from b&q once , and yes, I do tend to pick one up to measure and another to mark.

How is the stanley for inside / outside measurements ? i.e. the hook and slots on the end ?

is there such a thing as a tape measure that is designed to be accurate ? or are they for building work where 1/2 mm here and there doesn't matter.

 

[Paul Chapman]

For internal measuring you can't beat this sort of thing

I have several in different sizes.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Tusses]

Cheers Paul - I had forgot about that idea !

 

[Mr T]

Hi

I try to avoid using the tape where possible. I have various steel rules up to a metre. If I need to measure beyond that length I will use a Stanley tape but measure from the 100mm mark and deduct this from the final measurement, thus avoiding any inaccuracies with the end.

For smaller items I have a digital caliper which is good for making fine adjustments.

I find a bigger problem with accuracy is keeping my machines set accurately.

Chris

 

[BradNaylor]

If I need to measure beyond that length I will use a Stanley tape but measure from the 100mm mark and deduct this from the final measurement, thus avoiding any inaccuracies with the end.

Hands up everyone who's done that - and then forgotton to deduct the 100mm!

 

[Mr T]

Hi Dan

Yeh done that, but not often!

What I find more annoying is that my Startrite table saw can have the fence mounted in two different ways, one low to get under the fence, the other standard. This means two lines for setting dimension, depending on the orientation of the fence. I have often cut pieces too narrow through setting to the wrong line, funnily enough I have never done it the other way!

Chris

 

[woodbloke]

I use a Stanley tape for approximate marking out as they're not accurate enough, for stuff on the bench I have R&C 1000, 300 and 150mm steel rules which are used with a marking knife - Rob

 

[Niki]

As an amateur, I have a few rules.....and calipers...

And when you come to my age, better to make a few of those to separate between the mm lines....

Regards
niki

 

[Digit]

I'm with Paul on this one. (What do you call the Damn things by the way?)
I use one similar in size to the one Paul has shown, a telescopic tripod leg for larger sizes and an Alli sliding clothes line prop for big stuff!
About the only thing I use a tape for now is to find out if the plank is suitable in size for the planned job.

Roy.

 

[Niki]

Hi Roy

The "Damn thingy" is called "Bar Gauge"...

You can see it here (£9.95 for the two heads)
http://www.axminster.co.uk/user_search/ ... -22795.htm

I made one that can measure from 200mm to 1300mm - "Inside distance" but it also can measure "Outside distance"...you can see it on the pic above on the right side of the rules...the rest of the "How to" story, is here
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... highlight=

Regards
niki

 

[OPJ]

Bar Gauges are indeed brilliantly for the checking internal diagonals. What I find useful though is to put a 45º on each end so it gets right in to the corners.

 

[bugbear]

As an amateur, I have a few rules.....and calipers...

And when you come to my age, better to make a few of those to separate between the mm lines....

Regards
niki

Where did you get those sliding stops I see on your rules?

BugBear

 

[garywayne]

I believe that there are a couple of things that are very important in marking out.

i) A marking knife.

ii) When reading your ruler. You must look directly down on it. If you look from an angle, (It only has to be slight, especially if the ruler is thick), you miss measure.

iii) A good way to line up with the marks on a ruler is to turn it on its edge. That way the measurement lines are directly in contact with the timber.

 

[Anonymous]

_______

 

[Niki]

Where did you get those sliding stops I see on your rules?

BugBear

I bought all the rules while living in Japan and they come already with the slides.

You can buy only the slides but they cost....for the 1m rule - $10 (£5) and for the smaller something like $6.

niki