Mdf Toybox.

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Gerome

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Hi everyone,i was just wondering if any of you could give me some advice,i am thinking of making my daughter a toybox out of MDF (its going to be painted) and i was thinking of buttjointing it,now the thing im wondering about is what is the best way of joining them,should i use biscuits or should i use screws and filler?What do you guys think?
Also,what would be the best thickness of MDF to use?
Anyway,i would be gratefull of any thoughts on the matter,thanks.
 
Probably 18mm, either, or both, as it's probably going to get some rough treatment, both.
I have just used screws(preferably MDF screws, less chance of splitting) but don't go to near the corners, top edges, as that's where most splitting will occur if you don't make the pilot holes large enough.
You could use glue as well along the edges and then reinforce with the screws.
If as you say it will be painted, sand the edges with 80 grit until fairly smooth then paint with a 5/1 mix pva and water, wipe excess from the sides, but not the edges and leave to dry thoroughly. when dry sand well with 120 grit or even ooo 3m pad until very smooth, this will give you an excellent surface for your finish and so avoid the furry effect toy would get on cot edges.

Good luck

Dom
 
Gerome - good stuff from Dom, I might be inclined to use something like 15mm but at the end of the day and all things considered, it don't make allot of difference - Rob
 
18mm will make the end result quite heavy, i'd consider 12mm
 
To be honest I would probably make it out of pine if you can get some laminated sheets, it would make the joints a bit stronger and as it is to be painted shouldn't make much difference.
I'm not a fan of MDF if you have to screw into endgrain.

Andy
 
i'd look for 12mm too, but maybe of more importance is the way in which you sort the lid.

for a small kid, you need to think about how the lid is going to be kept up,
and also how it is going to fit on the top of the box.

whilst a lump of rope will stop the lid going too far back, you need some grommets between the lid and the top of the box, thicker than the fingers of a grown up i think. i also wonder whether an outside apron might be a good idea. again to stop the fingers being pushed into harms' way. :roll:

might be safer to think about doors at the front, and no lifting lid. :cry:
at if the doors pinch, the fingers will be easy to pull out. :lol:


personally i would use biscuits and some screws between them .

paul :wink:
 
I also want to make a toybox.

From what people are saying are screws into the edges
of MDF sheet OK? (avoiding too close to corners)

Andy
 
Yes, but remember that children will jump and sit on boxes that's why I advocate the thicker MDF. Twice when fitting childrens bedrooms for clients I used lighter material and the result was not a happy on as I was called back to repair the toy boxes.
Since those unfortunate incidents I have used 18 mm on several occasions and not had a problem, yes it's overkill but as I say kids will be kids.

Dom
 
ok lets throw my small experiences. i have a number of bookshelves that were made years ago of mdf with biscuits supported by glue and screws.

i drill into the side and end after having put them together and clamping him, and put the screws between the biscuits. remember that mdf is a pressed material in many ways, and can break in layers if it gets damp,
so it makes sense not to screw too near the corners. the most important thing about mdf and screws are the following

1/ buy spax or similar screws, like reiser
2/ make sure you use a proper drill and countersink combination.
i use the snappy system from trend, but in the past have used the items sold by makita which have a chuck with a removable drill and counter sink bit, plus a screw bit .

it appears from recent research that if you do not drill into the wood you are fixing into you may well get a small break out on the join, which will make it more difficult to get properly joined corners.

paul :wink:
 
dom you are right about what kids will do, and i would guess few kids actually move them around, its the folks isn't ??

however my concern is the lid, and it dropping on little fingers :cry:

paul :wink:
 
Agree with all of the above. Perhaps you could also glue a triangular fillet down the inside of each corner to beef them up? Just a thought.
 
Good point Paul,
On a couple I've used the piston type closer,not great.
On one a slide shut lid, not great either, kids can't work them.
So now I don't put a lid on and tell the client,"let them fill it doesn't it look like a story book box", and they ooh and ahh and I run away.
Haven't tried the soft shut pistons, but don't think that would work.

Dom
 
dom, i agree, my idea is always with stuff for kids to play with, KISS.

keep it simple stupid :twisted:

i think doors are safer, and also allow for a stronger box.
:roll:
paul :wink:
 
i think i'd be inclined to make an internal frame out of pine and then 'clad' it with the mdf ? you could then use 6mm mdf
 
Gerome":1xg5qojx said:
what is the best way of joining them,should i use biscuits or should i use screws and filler?

For MDF I've always preferred glue and biscuits rather than screws. I find that glue and biscuits gives a very strong joint and I've never had one fail.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I bought the wood recently for building a large toybox for our two children as we would like to get part of our conservatory back again and im wondering what way i can make the top as accidents WILL happen. Having a top that lifts up is the easiest way for tidying, lift up the lid and throw everything in. I was thinking of having the top as a sheet of mdf that slides forwards and hangs on the front (kinda like the small TV screens you see on dashboard car stereos, the ones that shoot out and hang down).

I made a box lately for the recyclable milk cartons, cardboard, etc using mdf, screws and glue and even though I spray painted it and used cup washers it looks cheap, suppose its only for rubbish. So this toybox is going to be made with a pine frame and 8mm mdf for the panels so having the sliding lid might be possible by having it run along the frame somehow.
Any suggestions or criticisms welcome!
 
Hi Jerome,

Made one (about 2 ft by 3ft by 2 ft high) out of 12mm MDF and with an MDF lid and base and it was pretty heavy and strong enough.

Used biscuits and glue to join the corners (no screws) and the mdf base was screwed and glued to inch square battens screwed and glued around the inside.
Hinged the lid with a piano hinge and I lipped the lid with softwood to take the screws of the piano hinge. I used some rope to stop the lid swinging open.

Made it 12 years ago and it survived two kids and use as a platform for painting ceilings. Can't post any pics becuase it went to the tip last yaer. Didn't break even when I dropped it in the skip.
 
Biscuits and glue is the way to go with MDF I think, or another idea is using a box joint this pic shows what I mean and 12mm would be fine unless the toy box is really large...

boxjoint.jpg


I know it's a drawer but you see what I mean, this joint was done with a simple jig on a table saw...
 
eric, why not just make the lid totally removeable so that at the end of the evening you guys, (well ok your wife :twisted: ) can then put it back once the kids are upstairs.

i think a slide out will cause as many problems,. cause someone is someday going to sit on it when it is slid out, and it will break, or tip over.

the simple way (hahahahahahahaha) is to make the lid totally removeable.

that's why i prefer doors. just like with window seats, doors are much more practical, and safer.
:twisted:
paul :wink:
 
Thanks Paul,
I was thinking of a removable lid too. Its just the fact of having to put the lid somewhere when the kids want their toys out, maybe it could slide underneath? The idea with the top hanging down meant the children could take it off themselves but as you said they could try to sit on it or use it as a ledge to try to get in. :lol:

Edit:

No, if the lid was to slide underneath the base would need to be wider than the lid.
 

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