Material for Jigs?

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Geofract

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Hello,

I see on you tube that, many people make jigs for their TS/Routers with 18mm Plywood (Birch I think?).

I wonder if there are cheaper materials I can use, such as external hardwood plywood. Or should I aim for Birch ply. Perhaps birch ply is more dimensionally stable, and preferred for that reason?

Aside from Hardwood (which I imagine won't be cheaper), are there other wood materials worth using?
 
Personally I'd say mdf is generally better than any ply variant, more homogeneous and easier to machine details in if necessary (slots, profiles etc etc). Other favourites are some plastics - UHDPE is widely used (ultra high density polyethylene) and is easy to get in part sheets; delron is excellent, I've used corian before but it takes the edge off tools. Rutlands used to do a jig-making pack of screws, T-bolts, knobs etc (they probably still do it), a very handy thing to have around along with a matching length of ali T-slot extrusion.
 
I've used MDF to make jigs but I won't be touching that stuff again. PLywood all the way for me. I use baltic birch but of a lower B/BB grade.
 
Type 'plastic sheet into ebay, there's masses of stuff. My last jigs were from leftovers from my saw/router table. It's in melamine covered 18mm MDF. Looks good but has to be edged....or not. I think it was about £25 for an 8x4 sheet. I was lucky, there's a supplier local, you may have to travel.


EDIT: If it's for the box joint jig I'd use ply.
 
Thank you for all the replies, much appreciated.

I had planned to make a small TS sled to start, though I'm not sure MDF is ideal for that, since I think it might warp with time. But yes, MDF could be ideal for other things. Melamine faced is a good idea too me thinks!
 
Personally I think it depends on:

  • How long you expect it to last
  • Will it be used again?; and if so:
  • How often you will use it

No point in using high-quality materials if you're going to use it once, or just now and then.
 
Geofract":w3gx9x11 said:
Thank you for all the replies, much appreciated.

I had planned to make a small TS sled to start, though I'm not sure MDF is ideal for that, since I think it might warp with time. But yes, MDF could be ideal for other things. Melamine faced is a good idea too me thinks!

MDF won't warp unless it's in an extremely damp area. That's one of it's advantages over solid wood. It's downside is that it won't hold a screw very well.

MDF comes in many grades and types. Red is for fire protection Green is moisture proof, there are others as well. The green is ideal for workshop stuff. Make sure you wear a proper mask, not a paper one. Keep it on until the job's done and you've swept up and dusted yourself off. The dust is carcinogenic.
 
One material I find cheap, stable for jigs with a nice slippy surface is conti board. Not good for lots of repetitive work as the surface will abrade (no worse than either MDF or ply). However, for small batches / occasional use its excellent stuff.
 
Steve Maskery designs and makes jigs, why not PM him for advice? If I remember correctly he uses MDF, mind you its a long time since I watched one of his DVD's so I could be wrong!

Baldhead
 
Thank you all, lots for me to think about.

I went to my local timber yard today, and the exterior 18mm Malaysian ply they have looked quite good, though I don't know if it suffers with voids.

Not liking the idea of carcinogenic MDF particularly, but might just have to live with it and stump up for a decent face mask.
 
The masks aren't too expensive and a proper mask is much nicer to wear than the disposable ones.

If you're using MDF you can over come any screwing issues by using bolts and tapping threads into the MDF, works great. Is especially useful if you want to make anything adjustable as things can be bolted on and off, or moved along a threaded rod etc.
 
I believe mdf contains small amounts of formaldehyde, which is currently classified as 'suspected of causing cancer'. Hasn't formaldehyde also been blamed for causing gender inversion in some river fish? (just recall reading it somewhere).
 
I recently read up on the hazards from the MRMDF I bought from the data sheet on the website as I had also heard previously rumours about carcinogens and specifically formaldehyde. It appears that when identifying the ingredients there are "no materials identified for this purpose as specified in section 5(3) of ‘The Chemicals (Hazard Information and Packaging for Supply) Regulations 2002" and they don't use this in my board and that where it is used in boards, it is emitted in very small quantities. (Norbord Caberwood MDF)

It appears that they use a non hazardous binder and the main danger is the wood dust that it can emit (which carries its own risks).

I use extraction on my TS55 and a mask and must admit I use it a fair but albeit for DIY projects.
 
condeesteso":2jmizh0h said:
I believe mdf contains small amounts of formaldehyde, which is currently classified as 'suspected of causing cancer'. Hasn't formaldehyde also been blamed for causing gender inversion in some river fish? (just recall reading it somewhere).

What he said.
 
Your info is 10 -20 years old or American!
MDF legally sold in the UK has been clear for a long while

There is of course the dust hazard and mdf kicks up a fine ( respirable) dust.
But it is no worse than any wood dust of the same size.

Porker offers good advice.

Just a bit of trivia : did you know that coffee is classified as carcinogenic?
Particularly hazardous is any dry particles from fresh ground coffee
 
Because it contains formaldehyde which is considered a carcinogen. However EU manufactured MDF should contain levels below that considered harmful. Some boards may also contain a percentage of hardwood, the dust from which is more harmful.
remember, it's the dust you dont see that's the most dangerous so always wear an appropriate grade mask
 

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