Marking gauge recommendations

[E-wan]

Can anyone recommend a reliable marking gauge which will work with larger pieces approximately 6" across.

I may consider making my own in time but wondered what off-the-shelf options were available that are reasonably reliable without spending a fortune.

Thanks

Ewan

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[DTR]

At that size it sounds more like a panel gauge. They are available, but not nearly as readily as the common marking gauge. I ended up making my own out of scraps.

 

[ED65]

Very quick to make a gauge using dowel for the stem, assuming you have a matching bit for the dowel diameter naturally. Could conceivably make it a sub-1hr job if you have suitable stuff in the offcuts bin.

 

[El Barto]

Saw this posted on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bkx3tG_FSe8 ... n1d4tt9nq7

 

[AndyT]

For pieces 6" wide, I find an ordinary, traditional, wooden marking gauge with a pin is all I need.
You may find it helpful to use two hands though, one to keep the block and stem bearing on the wood, the other to press the pin against the surface of the wood, lightly at first then firmer if needed. A scribble of candle end on the face of the block helps too.

 

[Bacms]

You could also consider the Incra T-rule

 

[Trafalgar]

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/lie ... gauge.aspx

http://www.hamiltontools.com/hamilton-panel-gauge/

https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/ac ... Gauge.html

 

[Orraloon]

As Andy said a regular wood gauge with a pin will do for 6'' wide. A wooden mortice gauge would be a good all rounder to start with. You can also use a combination square to gauge a line if it's all you have. That said having a few gauges to hand is handy as each one can be set at a different width so you can manage a whole project without having to try and repeat one size. That can be tricky.
I think I have now about 6 in the collection. One is a 2 knife mortice gauge thats sometimes handy and another has a pencil instead of a pin. Two are home made.
The only one I dont really get on with is one of those metal gauges with a cutter wheel. Just never really got comfortable with it and it was likely the most expensive too.
Regards
John

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Marking deeper than 6" really needs a panel gauge, since the head/fence is wide and provides greater stability than a small marking gauge. If this is not used often, a combination square can be drafted in, and a pencil or knife run at the end of the blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[E-wan]

Thanks for all your comments

very useful

Ewan

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[custard]

Can anyone recommend a reliable marking gauge which will work with larger pieces approximately 6" across....without spending a fortune.

A traditional style marking gauge can reliably mark 6" from an edge, and they only cost in the region of £5.

But here's the thing, a marking gauge is a tool. And like any tool there's a learning curve. The trick is for your first pass to be extremely light, you just want a faint scratch mark. If you need more visibility then subsequent passes can be a whisker deeper. If you go too deep on your first pass the stock will try and pivot around the pin or knife point, or follow a wavy grain line. The cut should be sufficiently light that the resistance that the pin or knife point is exerting is tiny compared to the pressure with which you're pressing the stock against the workpiece.

Also be aware that some timbers are trickier than others, a deeply pored timber like Oak or Ash requires more care than a smooth grained timber like Maple or Beech.

On a traditional apprenticeship there would be exercises where you mark out loads of parallel lines on scrap timber, both along and across the grain. Only when you can do that are you let loose on a real marking job.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

The trick is for your first pass to be extremely light, you just want a faint scratch mark. If you need more visibility then subsequent passes can be a whisker deeper. If you go too deep on your first pass the stock will try and pivot around the pin or knife point, or follow a wavy grain line.

Exactly! Spot on, Custard. This is a critical step than many miss.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[lurker]

I bought one of these quite a while ago:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-50879-C ... ion+square

Check out the brand!
It was much cheaper than this one, I think sub 5 quid.
I just wanted a rough square & straight edge that I did not mind loosing, as I was doing a lot of house joinery at the time.
Maybe I got lucky, but it is quite an accurate square ad perfectly good enough for joinery.
I use it mainly as a centre finder for turning these days.

But using as a square, I drilled and countersunk a small hole at 1" and with a pencil I have a marking gauge at hand, in my site kit.
I should just qualify this by saying I am just a rank amateur and by "site" I mean working at my two son's "doer upper" houses.

 

[Alvan]

I have notched the ends of my Combination square, enough to accept the lead of a pencil.

Æ

 

[toolsntat]

Simple adaptation of regular marking gauge is to make a longer arm. Then using about 7" of 3x1 make a snug fitting mortise to receive the lower portion of the stock. A simple panel gauge is now available without acquiring another stock.
Cheers Andy
Just realised you wanted an off the shelf item #-o

 

[Ttrees]

How many of you folks have junker wooden marking gauges that won't lock properly on the stem though ?...
The corner locking stem is said to be more stable than the screw pressing on a flat face of the stem which can move about....
What are the faults of these corner locking types?

 

[toolsntat]

How many of you folks have junker wooden marking gauges that won't lock properly on the stem though ?...
The corner locking stem is said to be more stable than the screw pressing on a flat face of the stem which can move about...

More often than not the problem lies within the fact the arm shape is inappropriate for the stock mortise. A little fettling and they should lock up quite nicely.
Cheers Andy

 

[ED65]

How many of you folks have junker wooden marking gauges that won't lock properly on the stem though ?...

That's not infrequently because the little metal disk/pellet that's held within the stock, that the screw is supposed to bear on, has gone missing into the wilds of a PDO's workshop floor.

Not to take anything away from the diagonally locking ones, that's a great system and many consider it the best layout bar none if you're using a screw lock. I think they look cool too 8)