Making large shaped cornices.

[Chrispy]

In a different thread Davin asked:-
Would love to know how to make the curved cornice, have made simpler version for armoires, but the one in your photo would be perfect - scary spindle jigs ?

Davin I don't have pictures of the start of making these but did take a few as things started to get unusual, as you can see it's built up in stages the most challenging being the outside Roman ogee.

Here's a few pictures to try to show the procedure that I took, although I felt confident that I knew what I was doing and aware of the dangers of such practices I can only recommend that you get someone to show you if you are unsure of what you are doing, as with most machines things go wrong in the blink of an eye and the results often painful and permanent.
This is the section of straight moulding.

this is the section of curved part you will see that the Roman ogee is cut from a square block this was to make handling and holding a bit easier.

Unless you want otherwise I'll concentrate on the curved work.
to start I cut out and planed up curved blocks then shaped half of the to size with a jig and normal guide ring and rebate block.

I then glued a second layer on to make up the thickness to 90mm, then again using the ring and rebate block followed the first layer to form the rebate around the outside then using a larger ring and smaller block finished trimming the outside lip.

Then I set the bandsaw to cut off as much waste as possible off the inside, again working off that first layer that was shaped to size.

Then set the spindle over at 45d to shape the ogee but doing this you can't use a guide ring so I made up a curved fence to work from.

And with the power feeder it's not quite so daunting.

This is the spindle work done really just a matter of trimming the ends to fit and drilling a pocket screw hole in the back to help with the assembly.

From there it's just a matter of assembly.

I hope that makes a bit of sense to anyone reading, doing is definitely easier than explaining!

 

[Peter Sefton]

Great set of photos, a very similar approach to how I would do it just a few more jigs to keep fingers away from cutters.

Cheers Peter

 

[nathandavies]

Interesting post. I would have thought (not having done this myself) that it would have been done in larger sections of curve, but that size seems more manageable. On a different note what is your spindle moulder with tilt blade and sliding table?

Nathan

 

[Chrispy]

Interesting post. I would have thought (not having done this myself) that it would have been done in larger sections of curve, but that size seems more manageable. On a different note what is your spindle moulder with tilt blade and sliding table?

Nathan

Nathan, each section in hindsight could have been longer but in this case I divided the overall by four, three pieces seemed a bit big and with more short grain at the ends so opted for four.
The spindle is a Felder F7, it's OK but wouldn't get another.

 

[davin]

Many thanks for that.

Only just noticed the post. The jig I had in mind was similar to the one you made. Once you see how someone else has done it, at all makes sense.
I suppose the shorter lengths mean less short grain and less timber flapping about. Is the cutter one you have made up or is it a standard moulding?

Very nice work
Once again, thanks

 

[Chrispy]

Many thanks for that.

Only just noticed the post. The jig I had in mind was similar to the one you made. Once you see how someone else has done it, at all makes sense.
I suppose the shorter lengths mean less short grain and less timber flapping about. Is the cutter one you have made up or is it a standard moulding?

Very nice work
Once again, thanks

Luckily I found a stock cutter set that was pretty well a perfect match for what the designer wanted, but it did mean getting a new block to hold them both came from Whitehills. The new block is 80mm tall so its a bit to big to try and grind by hand and eye.