I've already squared and planed the sticks (sorry, rails, stiles or whatever there're called) ready for rebating.
Richard
Making hardwood DG sashes - Advice on how to cut rebates
- Thread starter RichD1
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I've already squared and planed the sticks (sorry, rails, stiles or whatever there're called) ready for rebating.
Richard
Blimey Richard! You think the saw is risky?? Last week you were going to tenon and mould everything on a spindle moulder even though you had zero experience with using one??
Not me, I don't have a spindle moulder!
Richard
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Mortices, and tenon cheeks, first, then mouldings and rebates, then tenon shoulders last.
Just read this. I was going to do rebates first and then mortices and finally the tenons. Watched a guy on Youtube do it this way.
Any problems with this?
Back to looking at doing TS rebates. I like the idea of being able to use the waste as the moulding for the glazing.
Richard
Doug71
Established Member
No right or wrong way, it all depends what kit you have and how you are doing it.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Generally it's easier to mark up everything and cut the mortices and the tenon-cheeks whilst everything is still square, not least because you can still see the marks.
It's easier to strike the rebates and mouldings before the tenon shoulders are cut. Just leaves the tenon shoulders to cut last.
It also helps to have stiles/rails a bit over length ("horns") as long as possible so you have more timber bearing on the fences of your machine or hand tools.
The horns also protect the corners while you bash away at the rest of the job, then as a last thing you also get a very neat finish if you saw/plane off the horns and sticking out tenons very last thing.
Doug71
Established Member
Bradshaw Joinery is worth a look on Youtube if you haven't seen him. He does a nice little series on building a casement window, although I'm not a fan of how he cuts the tenons on the table saw.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
I guess you mean featherboards?
25mm if that's what you've got, but anything will do above about 10mm
I’ve decided to go with the TS method so dug it out from the back of the workshop to set it up and cut some feather boards.
I have to make a higher fence as the Scheppach TS4010 only came with a low ally section. For the featherboards I’m going to make two for the fence; one in front of the blade and one just behind. The one on the table I’m not sure about. I think I should only make a longer one on the infeed side with the end about 25mm in from the blade tip. See attached photo.
Richard
I have to make a higher fence as the Scheppach TS4010 only came with a low ally section. For the featherboards I’m going to make two for the fence; one in front of the blade and one just behind. The one on the table I’m not sure about. I think I should only make a longer one on the infeed side with the end about 25mm in from the blade tip. See attached photo.
Richard
Just giving the feather boards more thought and not wanting to jam the blade, would fitting of the side feather boards as attached photo be the best solution. Raising them like this would allow me to put a further one on the outfeed side as the pressure will be applied to above the saw tips. The ones on the I infeed would be fixed to the table.
Richard
Richard
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Er. hmm, I see problems here! Maybe go back to plan A and use the router?
Your second cut drawing particularly bad - as shown the thin waste against slot already cut would be springy and the featherboard could push it out of alignment. It would do that anyway at the end of the cut when the waste is no longer supporting the workpiece at all. There'd be a deep nick at the end of each piece, or worse if it got picked up and pulled back in.
Also you have no "safe space" for the waste and it will get flung out like a crossbow bolt
Plan A!
Your second cut drawing particularly bad - as shown the thin waste against slot already cut would be springy and the featherboard could push it out of alignment. It would do that anyway at the end of the cut when the waste is no longer supporting the workpiece at all. There'd be a deep nick at the end of each piece, or worse if it got picked up and pulled back in.
Also you have no "safe space" for the waste and it will get flung out like a crossbow bolt
Plan A!
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It was why I thought it would be better to space the featherboard up and pushing against the main stock rather than on the slot being cut.
I originally asked you about have the waste on the other side of the blade to provide a safe place for the waste but you were concerned about any wobble would impact into the main section. Do you think this would still be a major problem especially with the featherboards raised?
I originally asked you about have the waste on the other side of the blade to provide a safe place for the waste but you were concerned about any wobble would impact into the main section. Do you think this would still be a major problem especially with the featherboards raised?
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Stick with the router! If you do have a go with the TS do a lot of small trial rebates first
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
I'd certainly be doing this on the saw.
I'd only use a router if saw wasn't available. Way too much dust and noise for my liking.
Swapping the cuts around though (1 for 2 and 2 for 1) and having rebate/waste against sub fence which is sitting above waste height.
No side pressure needed but an additional side batten/guide on the saw bed will keep things lined up nicely on both passes.
Cheers Andy
I'd only use a router if saw wasn't available. Way too much dust and noise for my liking.
Swapping the cuts around though (1 for 2 and 2 for 1) and having rebate/waste against sub fence which is sitting above waste height.
No side pressure needed but an additional side batten/guide on the saw bed will keep things lined up nicely on both passes.
Cheers Andy
Just one final thought before I abandon the TS method and work on the Router jigs. What if on the 2nd cut of the rebate I take a kerf width off on the first pass to provide 'safe space' for the waste on the next pass?
Richard
Richard
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