Making a Router Tale

[Argonaut]

My First post here - Hi.

Done most of the work for a home made Router table ... large solid 1" thick MDF table, laminated it, sunk in Trend Router Table Plate Insert .... full width fully adjustable split fence.

Couple of questions or pointers would help on remaining work...

# NVR switch .. best price I have found is on Charnwood web site for Ref : W025 Price: £18.38 .... anybody know of better deal ?

# My plan is to use the Pro Clamp system (Axminster) to give me a front clamp, along with the featherboard attachment :
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/3/product-ProGrip-Featherboard-802862.htm

What I am having trouble sourcing is a similar solution for attaching to the fence to provide vertical down force.
I can buy expensive items to fit into T slots ... but the fence does not have these ... be nice if I could buy something simple to clamp on ?

# Final Q ..... initial plan was to fit my Trend T5 Router in this table ... I have a reasonable collection of 8mm shank router bits... but no large panel raising bits or similar.

A friend suggested that I would be better to go buy a 1600W - 2000W second hand Router and fit this instead.
Makita 3612 or Bosch 1300/2000CE
Is it worth going for higher power .... and if so do I need to get electronic control & soft start. or will plain motor type be good enough.


Sorry for multi-part question on the first post.

 

[MickCheese]

Here is your URL, you have been caught in the spam trap. It will wear off after a few posts.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/3/product-ProGrip-Featherboard-802862.htm

Mick

 

[big soft moose]

if you've got a bandsaw its easy to make featherboards and these can be made to mount onto the fence as well as to be used horizontally.

 

[Mike Wingate]

Mount the featherboards onto a subbase and fix them to the table(Clamps) and fence(bolts). I have the Charnwood and it is a great bit of kit, simple and safe.

 

[Shultzy]

Argonaut, if you check out my router table build as it shows one of the ways to clamp a fence without using a "T" track.

 

[Argonaut]

Argonaut, if you check out my router table build as it shows one of the ways to clamp a fence without using a "T" track.

Some ideas thanks.

Do the MDF feathers last ? ........ MDF when thin is usually quite brittle ?


Alos notice you have used a solid fence .... all the shop bought moels have a split fence .... do you know what the benefit is ?

 

[woodbloke]

I saw a really good router table at YOKB recently that didn't use a track. If the track is not fitted to the board, then the fence can be fitted at any angle provided the cutter projection is correct. The work is pushed onto the fence with proper:

angled push boards with diagonally set handles. I've tried these two push boards on my own table and they do work - Rob

 

[Argonaut]

I saw a really good router table at YOKB recently that didn't use a track. If the track is not fitted to the board, then the fence can be fitted at any angle provided the cutter projection is correct. The work is pushed onto the fence with proper:

angled push boards with diagonally set handles. I've tried these two push boards on my own table and they do work - Rob

Seen several pictures of home made tables... where the fence is not fitted into right angle tracks.
The only issue I could see against that I could not then use the 'pro clamp & feather board' as this would be at right angles to cutter, but wood would not be parallel to 'pro clamp', as fence would be at an angle.
In fact due to angle in most cases you could not use a 'pro-clamp' as end of it would probably ctach the leading edge of wood due to the angle of fence.

It seems I have 2 options ..

1) put in secure system for moving fence - keeping it at 90 degrees to cutter.
Adv - can use a parallel clamp, feather board, mitre fence etc.
Disadv - cost of T Track or similar, cost of pro-clamp

2) just arrange fence so that it can be fixed at far end and angle adjusted at start
Adv - cheap, simple
Disadv - run of board no longer at right angle to table

Welcome advice ... need to make decision before I purchase the bits.

 

[woodbloke]

In fact the table that I saw and was so impressed with belonged to a professional (who's name I've forgotten ) that Tom had invited to the bash. He was absolutely adamant that a track is not needed (which thus makes the setting of the fence much easier as there's no featherboard)
With those push boards as shown in my pic, the wood is held hard against the fence anyway and the feather board becomes redundant...save your cash :wink: - Rob

 

[Argonaut]

saving cash is what I thought about
Can still see need for downward featherboard on fence though.

Do you know what he did regarding the clamping fence ...

I assume I could put an 8mm threaded insert into table and locate with male threaded knob .. (a few inserts placed at intervals allow levels of adjustment.)
Fixing the start may be more interesting ... insert is out due to fence swinging in an arc ... could just use a trigger clamp ... but that seems a bit naff.

 

[Recky33]

No matter what angle your fence is, its always 90 to the cutter, plus the system you linked too is fitted to an adjustable clamp, so you can set that to whatever angle you want if its got enough adjustment

Allan

 

[Argonaut]

No matter what angle your fence is, its always 90 to the cutter, plus the system you linked too is fitted to an adjustable clamp, so you can set that to whatever angle you want if its got enough adjustment

Allan

agree .. that is the point a Pro-Clamp used across table would be at 90 degrees to table, and if fence is 'swung' it will not be parallel to fence, and thus is I am to use the 'swivel fence' approach, then Pro-clamp is of little use.

 

[Recky33]

You would be surprised at just how much movement you will have in a clamp rail, think of it a bit like a sash clamp, in as far as it can take ages to set one at 90 to anything, also by moving the fittings on the rail to the outside holes on the F/B you just gained several inches of angled movement. mind you would have to make longer fittings, and if your going to do that you might as well make your own F/B for use on a rail

Allan

 

[Mr T]

Hi

Woodbloke said:

In fact the table that I saw and was so impressed with belonged to a professional (who's name I've forgotten ) that Tom had invited to the bash. He was absolutely adamant that a track is not needed (which thus makes the setting of the fence much easier as there's no featherboard)

I would agree with Rob's professional. The workshop made router table that I used for about 15 years had no track, I used a push board cut precisely to 90 degrees (or whatever angle) to push the piece over the cutter and butted to the fence, which I clamped to the table using G clamps. I must admit I never used feather boards or any push down facility (don't tell HSE), and didn't ever miss them.

I use that table only rarely now as my saw/spindle has the facility to fit router bits. But I still think of my old RT with nostalgia!


Chris

 

[Shultzy]

Do the MDF feathers last ? ........ MDF when thin is usually quite brittle ?

Also notice you have used a solid fence .... all the shop bought models have a split fence .... do you know what the benefit is ?

The feather boards don't get that much wear, it's not as if you are going to get kick-back all the time. Mine are 1/2", plenty thick enough.

I think the a split fence is only needed if you are going to use large cutters or use the router table as a planer. I have a spindle moulder so I don't need a split fence.

 

[Argonaut]

Any thought form anyone about the other part of Q .... is teh Trend T5 going to be OK ... or do I need to get something begger

 

[Digit]

I use a 3612 Argo in a permanent installation. No need for a soft start IMO but mine has been fitted with a 'stand alone' speed control.

Roy.

 

[mailee]

I wuld definitely recommend a 1/2" router with plenty of power. T5 is a bit low power for table use really. I started with a 1/4" router in a table but changed soon after for more power, (Needed when you use panel raisers) HTH. :wink: T track not really needed as you can always make a sled that rides up against the fence. Simple is better IMHO. :wink:

 

[OldWood]

I've got a home made table and I deliberately offset the router to the front for easy use and then the whole lot can be turned round so that I've a wider area if machining a wider board.

The fence is just held down with male threaded hand knobs into nut inserts in the table top - slots obviously in the horizontal part of the fence, and a series of the nuts to allow for different positions. I like this arrangement as it allows micro-adjustment of the fence by slacking off one of the knobs and pivoting the fence slightly round the other.

Rob

 

[Argonaut]

I wuld definitely recommend a 1/2" router with plenty of power. T5 is a bit low power for table use really. I started with a 1/4" router in a table but changed soon after for more power, (Needed when you use panel raisers) HTH. :wink: T track not really needed as you can always make a sled that rides up against the fence. Simple is better IMHO. :wink:

Been Googling around / Fleabay / Adtrader etc ..... interesting how many 1/2" router are even less power than my T5.
Sounds like I need to find another Router