making a chair/step ladder

[johnnyb]

next I squared up a random chunk of 4 by 4 for the back and made a bit of pine with 360( this was the inside measure) between shoulders with 2 chunky dovetails on either end. these were marked on the bottom of the back legs and the depth gauged.
the rear frames were then disassembled(unscrew the seat) and the position of the through mortices for the pre shaped chunky back made

 

[johnnyb]

I then thought of a novel way to mark both the edge of the chair and the twin mortices. I basically clamped the back chunk in the correct place on a flat board marked the seat edge and sprayed paint through th e mortices to directly mark there positions. Once again the tenon and fork shoulders were marked all around at 360mm shoulders. I set t he bandsaw to match the angle of the marked edge of the back upright run that in to the shoulder mark then repositioned for the tenons. the same on the other end. everything else I did with handsaws and chisels.

 

[johnnyb]

everything seemed to work OK So I began to shape the back I could tell by trying that the back needed to have more angle than the back upright and sit a little forward. I shaped it by using a useful technique whereby the bandsaw table was angled and a radius marked to follow. the back marked and cut similar. then some shaping using a flat spokeshave. I also put some freehand gouge work on the back of this to try and lighten the structure somewhat.
next I decided to glue everything up I'd got the rough shape but I didn't attempt any sanding until it was all assembled. probably if it was in hardwood and being lacquered I would have sanded whilst in pieces.
plenty of glue on everything clamps then wedges on the back. screws in the housing / dovetails. screws put back in the seat. finally sanding to 120 faces and rounding the edges.

 

[johnnyb]

showing the ( slightly amateurish) gouge lightening.

 

[johnnyb]

next ill show it being painted with gray hydrolux filler primer( water based) then a pu top coat(water based). my boy decided this was his chair and it could help him to reach things( he probably shouldnt)!
the reclaimed wood behaved impeccably staying straight and not having many knots. it did leave quite a few nail holes and also my screw holes need plugging. I reckon chunky screws are best in softwood as I find with smaller screws the heads can sink in. the smaller screws seemed fine holding the housing and dovetails together. forgot to say the housings were cut using a 30mm bush and 1/2 inch cutter using an adjustable jig. I marked the height using a stick that was half the height of the second step( about 91/4 inch.)

 

[johnnyb]

I did consider ways to loose all the woodscrews but they work so well in combination with glue and screws it's quite hard. even my favourite old style square cut nails may have looked better but they wouldn't have held as well in softwood.

 

[kinverkid]

Not as elegant as yours and a backrest would be a nice addition but I made this one in April 2021 from some antique pine drawer fronts. The carcase had perished so only the drawers were left. Loving this thread too.

 

[johnnyb]

love those escutcheons

 

[Jameshow]

Not as elegant as yours and a backrest would be a nice addition but I made this one in April 2021 from some antique pine drawer fronts. The carcase had perished so only the drawers were left. Loving this thread too.

View attachment 165946View attachment 165947

Great recycling!

 

[johnnyb]

normally with pine things I like to introduce some texture into the surface as pristine finishes and soft pine don't combine well.
I plugged all the screw holes and filled many nail holes and blemishes with 2 pack filler. I cut the plugs off and planed them flush once again sanding. finally I rubbed(toupret) fine surface filler on any small blemishes and on any end grain. it's important that this filler is allowed to dry well.

 

[johnnyb]

here's the first coat of filler primer. the next coat will be brushpainted or better(quicker) is to spray then just tip off with a damp soft brush..

 

[johnnyb]

this shows the spray equipment and paint. the first coat and after tipping off the second coat.

 

[johnnyb]

it's slightly odd and backwards to be introducing brush texture into paint but the final result is great because it breaks up that perfect flawless spray finish but not so it's stringy which is the danger with brush painting. it's really subtle and nice. the top coats are now sprayed on top.

 

[johnnyb]

this is the final finish it's really hard wearing pu that is quite happy being sprayed with a hvlp turbine as its quite thin. this had 2 coats. I was definitely happy that I brush textured as the pine wouldn't "lay flat" it's got far to variable grain and it tends to remove the soft and leave the ridges.
next let it harden til Monday and screw the hinges back. I will take some better pictures then you can judge the overall finish better.
I'm fairly happy with it it's taken about 3 good days altogether. I always think I wish I'd gone for better wood but it's beautifully delicate and light tbf.

 

[kinverkid]

You're going to be asked for soooo many orders.

 

[johnnyb]

the price alone against the time taken would give a staggering price in pine. as mentioned earlier this could be made in China for £50. this equates to 2 or so hours. let alone buying materials hinges and the staggering price of decent paint.
but it's purpose was to unlock the moving mysteries of this thing.
maybe I'll have a bit of a brain rush and find a great way to make these easily but I suspect making a comfy chair is challenging enough but I eagerly await the next one.

 

[johnnyb]

the finished article.

 

[gregmcateer]

That is looking ace! Nice work, jb