Machining aluminium on the Rat and an over-the-top stop

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Well, today I was given a very decent Mitutoyo micrometer head with a 50mm movement.

After a bit of thought, I thought it might make a seriously accurate stop on the Rat which would make cutting mortises of a set width and similar tasks even easier and more accurate.

So, I decided to machine some aluminium to make a solid bracket. Ripped it to rough size on the bandsaw and then machined it on the rat - like a milling machine.

I set the router speed to 1 (slowest) and use a spiral end mill from a local engineering supplier - £11 for a 1/2" spiral cutter :shock:

I took fine cuts, and went about 0.75mm deep and cut 3-5mm wide at a time which worked really nicely. I was surprised how quickly I could feed the material through the cutter! I wouldn't cut more than this though as the material might move in the clamps.


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I then cut a little relief for where it sits above the moving plate to stop binding

No relief
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With relief
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Drilled and counter bored a couple of holes to clamp it securely and fitted it in place

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I set the bit against the wood, zeroed the micrometer and tightened the 2 bolts, then wound the micrometer out to the desired shoulder width. Took the cut. Wound the micrometer out by the tenon width (+1/2" for the cutter diameter) and took the second cut. One bang on tenon!! If it were slightly oversize, it is so easy to take off the exact oversize by winding the micormeter in and re-cut.

Of course, this is not over the top :^o and I really do need the 0.01mm resolution to work with wood :^o :whistle: but I am pretty chuffed with it and enjoyed making it - and it cost me £0.00 to make (hammer)

I have looked on ebay and there are some 25mm travel micrometer heads on there for a fiver at the minute if anyone fancies making one of these.
 
Very interesting Tony.....
I must get round to doing some jigs for mi`ol`rat myself...
a nice machine that can only get better with a few modifications.
 
Looks good, my only worry would be that the mic barrel can rotate under vibration from the router as there is no "Lock" as this is usually part of the mic body.

Jason
 
jasonB":2c6cpp9m said:
Looks good, my only worry would be that the mic barrel can rotate under vibration from the router as there is no "Lock" as this is usually part of the mic body.

Jason

Yep. This became evident from the first tryout, so, I locked the position with the standard Rat locking knob, and the barrel can rotate freely without problem (in reality, it rotates maybe 30 40 degrees whilst I was cutting) and then be re-adjusted after the cut before the next setting is 'dialled in'
 
Hi, Tony

I have lots of milling cutters that I use in my router they cut really well and as you found out they are cheap. I have had a couple of adaptors made a 6mm and a 10mm one from silver steel, I can now use cutters from 1.5mm to 10mm they are also available in different lenghts and round nose. I was going to put a link in to Cromwell tools but they seen to be down at the moment so here is one from Chronos http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chro ... s_113.html
they come in two different types endmills and slotdrills, you can plunge with a slotdrill, try them you'll like 'em.

Pete
 
Thanks Pete

I've been using milling cutters for over a year now, but hadn't thought of making different sleeves for other sizes

Next job on the list! Just finished adding a handwheel ot the X motioon and it works great :D
 
Chronos range of milling cutters is very limited, take a look at J&L (use the virtual catalogue, bottom left) they have different spiral angles, short, standard, long, solid carbide, dovetail etc.

They often have offers, I recently bought som 1/2" Dormer endmills and slot drills for about £9 each, far better than the imported ones.

Jason
 
Nice idea Tony - never thought of using the Rat to mill stuff.

I see you have a digital scale already fitted - is this new system going to replace it?

Rod
 
Good idea Tony,.... yet another 'Rat mod. I have used milling cutters occasionally on my machines.
In theory not needed for alloy but I use a spray duck oil onto the bit end. Cuts even better and stops the swarf flying every where.

That system is really helpful if you make super small joints for tiny boxes etc.

Aldel
 
Nice one Tony, I use the same system on my tenoning jig for the table saw. I see you have a digital readout so am curious as to why you felt the need for this system.

John
 
Harbo":k0rp43t8 said:
Nice idea Tony - never thought of using the Rat to mill stuff.

I see you have a digital scale already fitted - is this new system going to replace it?

Rod

Both have their uses and both will stay. I also fitted a hand wheel to drive the Y axis on an 8mm threaded rod too, but not shown that yet.,

The probelm with the Rat is that it is sold as something it is not. It is not a finished and fully designed product by some margin in my opinion and it is heavily flawed in severla areas. Also, it does not replace the router table (somethign I have seen claimed quite often :D ) but completments it

I have come to see mine as a kit and a starting point for developing a very useful tool :wink:
 
Johnboy":23uqvsji said:
Nice one Tony, I use the same system on my tenoning jig for the table saw. I see you have a digital readout so am curious as to why you felt the need for this system.

John

Different uses - not a case of feeling the need to fit a micrometer, I ws given the micrometer for free and so thought it might be useful to have an accurate stop as well as a vernier.
The vernier does not allow me to set a positive stop that easily, but is very useful for some cuts where the stop is less useful.
I recommend both as useful additions :wink:
 
Tony I've seen people put a rubber sleeve on Micrometers in our metallurgy lab, they roll the rubber sleeve over the micrometer to lock it in place and roll it back to adjust it. Worked well - maybe worth considering.

So you have micrometers and digital callipers, all I use is a series of bits of hard wood thicknessed to accurate widths (20mm, 15mm, 10mm, 8mm, 6mm ), drilled with a hole and strung together on a loop of thin rope - works a treat

:wink:

Academics what will they think of next :roll:
 
I would never have dared to use the fast spinning router to mill aluminium. But you showed that it works very well. I will try it on my woodrat too.

Detlef
 
Detfall":bx475h7f said:
I would never have dared to use the fast spinning router to mill aluminium. But you showed that it works very well. I will try it on my woodrat too.

Detlef

Detlef, use it on low speed and you will be fine. i have also used a hand held router against a guide to mill aluminium in the pas.

I do use milling cutters these days, but have used B&Q router cutters successfully in the past
 
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