Be interested to know how you get on if you do decide to match it up to an ANI gun. Good luck!
LVLP spray gun and compressor?
- Thread starter Chris152
- Start date
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If you need advice on painting feel free to message me and enjoy your air compressor.
Make sure you get a water trap and decent size hoses and don’t forget to drain your tank every week if it’s used daily.
Make sure you get a water trap and decent size hoses and don’t forget to drain your tank every week if it’s used daily.
Si465
Established Member
I have this gun with an abac 50l, I struggle to get paint through it too. In the rag n bone video he seems to get lots through it using the exact same setup, so a bit frustrating!
Jameshow
Established Member
You could probably brush it with a decent machinery enamel and it wood look ok!OK, a little context might help. My lad's learning classic car restoration, in the early stages but doing a welding and fabrication course. Hence we got a fairly rotten Midget. I think his real interest is in working with the metal, but by getting a car that needs a full rebuild he'll get to try everything and can make decisions from there.
We've talked about it at length and I think his plan would be to get someone else to do paintwork - the kind of kit/ environment you need to get a professional/ top end finish clearly costs a fortune. He should be fine with time to get bodywork through final stages of prep/ primer, but then pay for the finish. But, I'd like him to have a go at final finish, just so he's been through all the stages, and I'd like to have a go at it myself. In the end, the midget will probably be a keeper, something we rebuilt together, so the actual finish isn't crucial - so long as it looks ok from a few metres, it'll be ok(We'll aim for better, of course.)
He's also clear that a compressor will help out in the workshop (apart from air tools, it'll be good for clearing metal chips from the lathe and mill etc).
So, the compressor would be used for general workshop use, application of primer, and (probably just) one bash at applying colour, til we realise we're hopeless at it. I'm not clear what paint to use, still trying to look into that.
Mike - that HVLP system review is great, thanks for the link. I think I understand what you're saying about it being the future now, but at the price for a good one probably doesn't fit the bill - unless he falls in love with painting at some point!
Point taken about cellulose, h-magic - thanks.
I'd assumed it was my compressor that wasn't up to it, but guess there are other factors too. Did you go for the 1.2 mm nozzle size? Wondering if one of the knowledgeable folks on this forum could advise what the different nozzle sizes are best for?
I'm still not sure which gun to go for Andy, but I'll probably get a £50-ish LVLP one first for applying primer and then try that with colour, and upgrade then if necessary. The ANI is definitely on the radar, we'll see.
h-magic - what size airline would you suggest? We thought 8mm as a medium size initially. I'm assuming the connectors are 1/4" but can't find it written anywhere, and the compressor has Euro airline connectors, so thought we'd get regular ones and I've ordered an adapter kit, but still not ordered an airline. Also, if we're avoiding cellulose, what's the easiest and safest system? My memory from bodging paint jobs on my car as a lad was cellulose, which was good as you could cut it back to a decent finish if you got inconsistent finish - but I understand the health and environment issues. We need to more or less completely strip the panels as they are, the paint is quite bad on it and I've no idea what it is, so we can work with whatever is best from scratch.
James - if all else fails, we'll try that!
Thanks all.
h-magic - what size airline would you suggest? We thought 8mm as a medium size initially. I'm assuming the connectors are 1/4" but can't find it written anywhere, and the compressor has Euro airline connectors, so thought we'd get regular ones and I've ordered an adapter kit, but still not ordered an airline. Also, if we're avoiding cellulose, what's the easiest and safest system? My memory from bodging paint jobs on my car as a lad was cellulose, which was good as you could cut it back to a decent finish if you got inconsistent finish - but I understand the health and environment issues. We need to more or less completely strip the panels as they are, the paint is quite bad on it and I've no idea what it is, so we can work with whatever is best from scratch.
James - if all else fails, we'll try that!
Thanks all.
sams93
Established Member
I will be v interested to see how you get on with this. I have been looking at idea of buying a LVLP spray gun for ages but there isn't very much info on them when I have read.
Si465
Established Member
I think you should still be able to spray fine with a smaller compressor while it's charged, it will just empty quicker. Did you get a regulator to attach at the gun end? As long as this shows ~32psi (from memory for the R160) when on full trigger then it's getting enough air.
I did get 1.2mm, this is on the small end for waterbased woodwork paints, more aimed at automotive finishes that are much thinner. The pro decorating guns often use a 1.8mm nozzle.
I'm probably expecting too much, but ragnbone appears to dilute his paint by 20-30% and sprays a whole door quite quickly. I've tried the same and after about 10mins the cup is still half full and the door's got a light misting at best! The fan/flow with just water seems much bigger so I will try more diluted next time
Yep, I do have a regulator and at the right pressure. Thanks for the info on the nozzle size, I think 1.2mm is the largest nozzle you can get for the R160 unfortunately.
I diluted about 5:1 but didn't filter the paint, which probably didn't help.
I'm a bit reluctant to upgrade the compressor if the results aren't going to be a lot better. I'd also need to make a better spray booth as everything in my workshop got a light coating of acrylic paint last time. Going back to a brush feels like giving up though.
Si465
Established Member
5-1 is only about 16%, I think I went quite a bit more and still struggled.
A decent setup is probably about £1k, I can't justify that! I have used a £30 sprayer off Amazon before and that worked pretty well to be honest, I'm not an expert at judging finish quality though.
Brush n roller is cheap, it's just internal corners like on shaker doors that drive me mad. Wb paint dries so fast, always been tempted to try some floetrol but been put off by the cost.
My workshop filled with paint mist which hung in the air for hours after, and landed everywhere naturally, wipes off like dust though. A booth or filter is on my list too, or just doing it outside maybe.
For information, HVLP uses a max of 10psi, hence less bounce back, (mist) more paint goes onto the job, and more environmentally friendly, most professional shops now use HVLP as its becoming a licence issue, in the USA in some states you can't use anything else in a commercial shop.
Sorry not on forum much, 8mm hose minimum I find 10mm the best, not as easy to get, the ends are removable and you can put what you want at the end.
Even though they make water based paint now.If your spraying cars there is no safe option as the laquer is still 2k which contains the isocyanate.
Get yourself a full 3m mask and a full overall.
You can spray 2k paint on cellulose but not the other way round so unless your going to sandblast the whole car your better using 2k.
You are correct Cellulose is easier to work with but I personally find it easier to use the 2k system as it’s more forgiving
If you’re using a 1.3 you will struggle to get normal furniture paint out you will have to dilute it to a clear water level and it’s pointless as it will be runny.
You will need a 1.8 or 2.0 and still thinned down by around 20% to spray furniture with of the shelf paint.
If you do want to spray furniture I recommend Tikkurila paint as it’s all water based.
All PU paint you will need a 1.8.
1.3 is more for car paint base coat and laquer.
Even primer you need a 1.8.
I recommend you get a burrisch paint gun as there very low CFM around 6 so should be fine with your compressor.
To sort out your issue with dust and overspray get a fan.
12” minimum that will make a huge change.
If you can mount this to external wall this is ideal.
Commercial Extractor Industrial Ventilation Axial Exhaust Blower Flow Air Plate Fan 18" Inches 450MM Black (Heavy Duty Metal with Speed Control Regulator) Amazon.co.uk
Or one of these you put a filter at the front.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20168836...e967ZEUSty&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Even though they make water based paint now.If your spraying cars there is no safe option as the laquer is still 2k which contains the isocyanate.
Get yourself a full 3m mask and a full overall.
You can spray 2k paint on cellulose but not the other way round so unless your going to sandblast the whole car your better using 2k.
You are correct Cellulose is easier to work with but I personally find it easier to use the 2k system as it’s more forgiving
If you’re using a 1.3 you will struggle to get normal furniture paint out you will have to dilute it to a clear water level and it’s pointless as it will be runny.
You will need a 1.8 or 2.0 and still thinned down by around 20% to spray furniture with of the shelf paint.
If you do want to spray furniture I recommend Tikkurila paint as it’s all water based.
All PU paint you will need a 1.8.
1.3 is more for car paint base coat and laquer.
Even primer you need a 1.8.
I recommend you get a burrisch paint gun as there very low CFM around 6 so should be fine with your compressor.
To sort out your issue with dust and overspray get a fan.
12” minimum that will make a huge change.
If you can mount this to external wall this is ideal.
Commercial Extractor Industrial Ventilation Axial Exhaust Blower Flow Air Plate Fan 18" Inches 450MM Black (Heavy Duty Metal with Speed Control Regulator) Amazon.co.uk
Or one of these you put a filter at the front.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20168836...e967ZEUSty&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thanks h-magic. So this'd be the gun for primer, I guess: LVLP 1.8mm Spray Gun
Looks a decent price. Unless we go for one with interchangeable size nozzles? And we'll need a pressure regulator for the gun - do we need a water trap too?
On the mask - I have an Airshield pro, with the right filters fitted would that work?
Still struggling with which paint system tbh, if they're all as unhealthy as each other, maybe cellulose is the way to go - I've read nothing but bad about the health effects of 2K, and since I know cutting back and polishing cellulose on cars a bit, I'm tempted. But I clearly need to do more research.
In the end, we got a 9.5 hose btw, so that should be fine based on what you wrote.
Really appreciate your comments.
Chris
ps We're really pleased with the compressor, it's so quiet and already great for getting carp out of inaccessible recesses!
Looks a decent price. Unless we go for one with interchangeable size nozzles? And we'll need a pressure regulator for the gun - do we need a water trap too?
On the mask - I have an Airshield pro, with the right filters fitted would that work?
Still struggling with which paint system tbh, if they're all as unhealthy as each other, maybe cellulose is the way to go - I've read nothing but bad about the health effects of 2K, and since I know cutting back and polishing cellulose on cars a bit, I'm tempted. But I clearly need to do more research.
In the end, we got a 9.5 hose btw, so that should be fine based on what you wrote.
Really appreciate your comments.
Chris
ps We're really pleased with the compressor, it's so quiet and already great for getting carp out of inaccessible recesses!
I'm really hoping that's a typo and you don't have a generic infestation of freshwater fish... 
Air shield pro won’t be good as it will recirculate the nasty air back in unless you can get an organic cartridge for the mask.
One of these with organic cartridge will be fine and a full spray mask.
3M 7100015052 Reusable Full Face Mask, Large, 6900, EN safety certified https://amzn.eu/d/fcYG54h
You can risk it with a half face mask, which is what I normal use but I do have decent extractors.
Get a water trap and regulator that fits at the end of the gun will save any issues down the line and you can see how much psi is going to the gun.
All of these problems disappear when using HVLP the much lower pressure (below 10psi) avoids the majority of bounce back which is the major contributor to airborne contaminates, I would never go back to a compressor and gun no matter what the hybrid blurb says about conversion guns, they don't work the same. Conversion guns where invented by the compressor gun industry when they realised the advantages that can be obtained with much lower pressure, but without the high volume of air required they are a compromise.
Thanks h-m, spray painting's a real can of worms for us noobs! The more I find out, the less I feel like having a bash - one of the things I want the lad to learn from us working together is H&S in the workshop, and I can't really satisfy myself that we can get that with these paints for a whole car. I'm still confident we can do the primer in small doses (using the Burrish gun you suggested), but not so much the final spraying.
Soooo - yesterday we went to the TR Register event at the Bath and West showground, had a really nice day looking at cars we can't afford. One was a rally TR7, and we got chatting to the owner/ driver, who it turns out runs a car body shop 6 miles from home here in South Wales. He says he'd be happy to put the colour coats on for us, we need to talk money still so nothing's for sure, but it's looking the way to go at the moment.
As an aside, we also picked up a couple of large boxes of panel beating tools and air tools for a very good price from a retired panel beater yesterday - we're really pleased to find the tools all work really well with our compressor.
Soooo - yesterday we went to the TR Register event at the Bath and West showground, had a really nice day looking at cars we can't afford. One was a rally TR7, and we got chatting to the owner/ driver, who it turns out runs a car body shop 6 miles from home here in South Wales. He says he'd be happy to put the colour coats on for us, we need to talk money still so nothing's for sure, but it's looking the way to go at the moment.
As an aside, we also picked up a couple of large boxes of panel beating tools and air tools for a very good price from a retired panel beater yesterday - we're really pleased to find the tools all work really well with our compressor.
