Lurem crossroads

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Floggedhorse

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Hi all, I'm at a crossroads, I’m looking for direction, and any opinions much appreciated…

I have a Lurem C.210B, but the motor has finally given up the ghost, RIP, along with finally getting my garage back, and kids leaving the nest, I'm looking to set things up permanently, fixed and ready for action… want a saw it's there ready, want a planer, it's waiting… The garage is now ceramic floor tiled… “I know” 😊 , it only took 16 months! Anyway, I jibber jabber…

It is confirmed, that it’s not worth rewiring, so I’m faced with a few choices.

Replace like with like

Tec 1.5KW, 2 POLE, 1PH, CAP CAP MOTOR B14 – Frame size 90S

Or

give la petite machine un peu de vä-ˌvä-ˈvüm! (before burning out, it never seemed to have enough oomph – but that might have been the motor on its way). It appears a 2.2kw motor will fit 😊but will it give me belt/power issues?

Tec 2.2KW, 2 POLE, 1PH, CAP CAP MOTOR B14 – Frame sizes 90L (30mm Longer) (it would need a 16amp supply) or is this unnecessary overkill?
(edit - it appears the original motor is very short, the Tec motor wont fit without cutting 17mm of the frame - but others will)
With

New switch gear with thermal overload

Why not treat it to a new drive belt, can you even buy them? (a part number would be a bonus please)

Or will I need to change the belt type, along with the pulleys

OR

Or a complete machine replacement with another combination saw, moulder, planer, thicknesser … but what? That’s another question.

Cheers

Edit 2 - interesting from the manual it comes in two variants ... "2HP three-phase" or "1.5HP Single phase" motor
 
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What blade diameter does your machine take ? If it is less than 10", then I wouldn't bother.
Otherwise, 2kW / 3hp is a standard motor on a number of old tablesaws, not least the Wadkin AGS, so if there is room to fit the longer motor I'd be tempted. It will be a little heavier and a bit more expensive than a like for like.
You will need a 16A supply and wiring to suit. Operating a 2kW motor through a 13A plug will blow fuses and lead to overheating in my experience. You might get away with it because fuses are not a precision device and some are tougher than others, but you shouldn't.
Thermal overloads are adjustable so you may find the existing one can be set to the full load current of a replacement 3hp motor. You can open it up and see what adjustment range it has and look up the motor full load current before you buy it.
Give your machine a new belt if it's been on for a few years - they are cheap - and see how it goes. The size and profile should be printed on it.
 
I always loved the scm minimax 260/310 combi machines. They look the part to me. Lurem weren't the best. Felder are available. Serious working requires separates tbh.
 
If it were a 9" handheld circ saw, 1500W would be a sensible size of motor for that too.

Cheers Sideways, I like your logic, but having played with it, I'm thinking the power of hand tools will be limited for any kickback, in my situation, provided the blade doesn't fly off, it will be the wood that kicks back.
 
For what it's worth, my highly modified C200 (the daddy of the C210) is fitted with two 2.2kW motors, and provided it's used regularly so the belts don't get "set" it starts fine on a 13A circuit. As regards belts for the saw, it uses standard toothed flat belt inside out. But remember I'm a mean bodger, so don't take this as advice.
 
Cheers dickm, & all, many thanks for the input
I think I've made my mind up - a 2.2 kw Tec motor, PSC 240V 1ph (2.221TPCB14)... my logic...
  • More power, but it is a machine, not a hand tool... bigger blade, bigger cuts, and the same speed
  • The PSC (Single capacitor) is a small frame size (in length) as the CSCR (twin capacitor) will not quite fit
  • The PSC has a lower starting torque (and lower current) than CSCR - which will not be a problem as we shouldn't be starting with any blades touching the wood - once up to speed no difference in torque, to gain any extra torque both motors would need to slow enough to activate the internal switch, but the idea of the more power is to prevent this
  • Again the PSC will require half the current of the CSCR to start. It might even manage on the garage 13Amp ring main :)
  • They are the same missable efficiencies once running
All that's left is to check the dims
 
I was going through this recently my self on my C.260 Lurem. The motor mount turns out to be a B5 Flange, Size 63 (115mm c to c distance on the four bolt holes). Nothing available out here that is suitable, so am considering making up what amounts to a jack-shaft with a couple of flange-mount bearings and a stub shaft to mount the original motor pulley in its original location, and hopefully retain some functionality in the braking lever that bears on that pulley. Will have to add another pulley on said shaft to take the drive from a motor I would mount on the base via a bracket I would fabricate. Better ideas welcomed! ;)
 

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