Low angle vs standard angle block plane

[JohnPW]

Low angle block plane: 12 degree bed angle + 25 blade bevel = 37 effective pitch.

Standard angle block plane: 20 degree bed angle + 25 blade bevel = 45 effective pitch.

If I put a 33 degree bevel blade on the low angle plane: 12 degree bed angle + 33 blade bevel = 45 effective pitch, would it perform the same as the standard angle plane?

The plane would be used as a small normal plane to work on small pieces of wood, not just for one handed trimming, chamfers etc.

 

[D_W]

you can choose tearout control by total angle, and it'll work like any other single iron plane, more or less.

If you're shooting for 45 degrees total, a low angle plane will give you a stronger bevel than a standard 20 degree plane (33 bevel fares much better if the surface left matters at all).

That said, if 33+20 is 53 on a standard angle plane, unless you're removing a great deal of material, it's not going to matter much (and the standard pitch plane may be nicer to use because it forces a little higher of an angle - giving you some forgiveness if you're beveling or chamfering long edges with it (where a lower pitch may pick up splinters/tearout, even with the mouth mostly closed - tearout always screws up the cut more ways than one).

 

[G S Haydon]

I'm quite happy with my standard angle block plane. They are cheap to pick up secondhand as the low angle is very desirable these days.

The blade is so narrow in a block plane and the cuts made tend to be so light that I don't notice much difference.

David makes a decent point on possibly how edge life could be better in a low angle blade with a high honing angle.

 

[D_W]

I only use a standard angle block plane, though. A bench plane is better for end grain, and I keep the block plane set up around 30 degrees plus buff (which makes the cheese soft irons hold up well and stops denting). I'd rather have a 9 1/2 than a labp.

 

[JohnCee]

They feel different in the hand. This may or may not be important to you. It's the decider for some.

 

[Dr Al]

I like my low angle one, but only because of the versatility. I've got a standard angle one that I picked up for next to nothing in a junk shop, but the low angle one is the one I usually reach for. I bought a couple of spare blades for it and have a 25° one, a 38° one and a 50° one, giving a working angle of 37°, 50° and 62° respectively. It's quick to swap blades out depending on what I'm doing.

I suspect that versatility would be more useful on a jack plane than a block plane, but I do find myself using the block plane on end grain quite a bit. Now if only low angle jack planes weren't like rocking-horse droppings...

 

[Woody2Shoes]

With a low angle design you normally get an adjustable mouth which is helpful as an aid to controlling tearout - I don't think this feature is available on most standard angle block planes. Also, the feel is different - as said above.

 

[D_W]

The stanley 18 and 9 1/2 have an adjustable mouth - 20 degree bed.

Low angle 15 and 60 1/2 planes have an adjustable mouth

Not sure about the bed angle of all of the 110s and 220s and such that don't have an adjustable mouth.

 

[ac445ab]

I use both the low and standard angle block planes, the low angle one mainly for end grain on small pieces. I have got a Stanley 9 1/2 and 60 1/2 planes.
I agree with Dr AI: if I wanted only one plane, I would choose a low angle plane with a couple of blades in order to obtain different cutting angles.
Ciao
Giuliano

 

[Jacob]

....

The plane would be used as a small normal plane to work on small pieces of wood, not just for one handed trimming, chamfers etc.

Can be done of course but a block is not easy to use two handed like a normal plane. They are designed to fit the palm with one finger on the button. Better off with a 3 perhaps. They are very nice to use