Lost in the world of mitre saw's

[wolf78uk]

Hi really would like some advice on a good mitre saw that won't break the bank but gives a good and reliable smooth cut, a laser guide, dust collector and bevel cutting option is a must. I'll be using it for a substantial and fairly intricate decking/pergola project, replacing picture rail, arcitrave and skirting board through out our whole house and laying a large amount of solid wood floor, once these are done I would like to turn my hand to some furniture making so any advice would be greatly recieved. I'd prefrably prefer not to spend much over £200 as it is not my trade and more of a DIY thing. Thanks

 

[big soft moose]

i dont know enough about them to advise on a particular model, but i would say that the laser guides are generally a gimmick and a waste of time, and also that if you are using them for small cuts like decking only then the non sliding type (CMS rather than SCMS) are generally more accurate.

on the other hand if you want a slider (which you will need if you want to cut more than about 200mm width at a time), i'd draw your attention to this one on the 'bay - its misdescribed as a bandsaw so will probably go cheap.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Band-Saw-for-sale ... 439e9f416d

 

[wolf78uk]

Thanks for the spot, but unfortunatly it doesn't look like it cuts bevel's which I'll need for the deck boards to do what I want

 

[big soft moose]

Thanks for the spot, but unfortunatly it doesn't look like it cuts bevel's which I'll need for the deck boards to do what I want

i'm not quite sure i understand what you want - virtually all cms and scms can be tilted to cut mitres and compound mitres (thats what it stands for Sliding Compound Mitre Saw) so if you mean an angled edge at anywhere between 90 and 45 deg then that, and indeed most others can do it

if you mean a rounded bevel , no mitre saw that i'm aware of can do that - you'd need a router and appropriate cutter or a moulding plane.

btw you dont say where in the country you are, but if you are close to me i have a cheap non sliding cms that you can have for free if you come and get it - as i dont need it now i have a table saw

 

[woodsworth]

Thanks for the spot, but unfortunately it doesn't look like it cuts bevel's which I'll need for the deck boards to do what I want

I think the fence is good evidence that it does secondary bevels as if it only did them on the flat there would be no need for an angled fence.

 

[wolf78uk]

I want to cut the boards on a 45 degree angle so the joints have a nice finish but am building them up so its like putting them on the wall to make planter's in the corners of the decking. I did think it strange that not all of them tilted but it was just what I gathered from looking at pictures. I know you say the laser's are gimicy but was thinking it would give me a more acurate cut. I'm in Ipswich, Suffolk

 

[shipbadger]

I wonder if the rejection of lasers as a gimmick is more a case of a generation of woodworkers having grown up without them and learnt all the dodges. My Perform saw came with one and although it took a good hour to set up the laser (mainly 'cos I'm left handed so it was a major realignment), once set I thought it was really usefull; so much so that when it failed this winter I was on the 'phone to Axminster for a replacement. I'm sure my granfather would have coped without, but he had a lifetime of experience, he even drew straight lines with his tape measure but I wouldn't cope without a straight edge!

Tony Comber

 

[wolf78uk]

I must say I am new to woodworking but am fairly acomplished in any Diy I've tried hence wanting a mid level saw and not a make do cheapy as have suffered far to many broken or ruined tools that haven't done a proper job when I haven't spent a bit more money and done a bit of research

 

[OPJ]

If you're going to be doing a bit of decking then you'll want a say that can cut 90-95mm thick, won't you? That would mean purchasing a saw with a 12in/300mm blade. Some of the 10in models will just about cut 90mm. There are also plenty of non-sliding saws available that will do this - though, you'll want to check the maximum cross-cutting capacities with the blade at 45°.

The better the saw, the better the laser, is generally the way it works. They're not 'essential' by any means, if the pre-set stops on the saw are good. But, if you're looking to make compound cuts, aligning the blade to a pencil line then, they can prove invaluable for this (much easier than trying to 'roll' the blade along the line...).

I'm a big fan of the Makita saws. I've owned the 10in LS1013 model for a while now and, even though it was second-hand and had plenty of use on site previously, it cuts very accurately and the results are repeatable. Unfortunately, their saws would be way over your budget - unless you could get something second hand on eBay? Newer models now come with a laser, meaning the older ones can be found a bit cheaper.

If you are looking for a new saw though, Axminster have this one on special offer (it's bang on your budget). It slides, has a laser and everything else... Would the 90mm depth of cut be sufficient?

Axminster don't seem to have any 12in sliders in their own brand but, the SIP range looks quite similar and they do have their own 12in model, here (it is above your budget).

I've not used saws from either brand but, if did a search of the forums, you'd find that people have had good experiences with the SIP saws in the past and Axminster's own brand usually isn't too bad. It is generally a case of 'you get what you pay for' with these things but, if it's only for occasional/DIY use...

 

[big soft moose]

If you're going to be doing a bit of decking then you'll want a say that can cut 90-95mm thick, won't you?

:shock: what kind of decking have you been using , in my experiene most decking boards are a max of 25mm thick - or are you talking about width ?

That said i agree with you that a 12" saw would be better but he'll be lucky to get a decent one inside his 200 notes budget - unless he finds a bargain on ebay of course

 

[OPJ]

No, not the boards - I'm thinking of the posts!!

Otherwise, I agree - most boards I've seen are a maximum of 32mm thick.

EDIT - If you're only building decks at ground level though, I can't think of a situation where you'd large 4in posts anyway... It's when you're building suspended decks or adding higher levels that you'd need these for support.

In which case, you might even be able to get away with an 8in/200mm saw (maximum depth of cut - 2in). These will generally be lighter, slightly more compact and easier to carry from one job to the next.

 

[wolf78uk]

The width of the boards are 140mm but will cut them for the upright join so like skirting board on a corner, I've found a few brands but not sure on their reputation, build quality or most impotantly accuracy. I've found: Erbauer, Rage Evolution, Rexon, Sip, Gmc and Wicks proffesional rage (£30 more but can stretch to that) so you can see why I'm a bit lost, again please any advice would be greatly recieved, Thanks

 

[wolf78uk]

I am planning to build a pergola over the decking which will be 4m by 4m so will have to use 100mm by 100mm posts for the strength but am aware the depth of cut won't reach this on any saw, but don't mind turning them to make 2 cuts, presuming they will fit?

 

[wolf78uk]

I am planning to build a pergola over the decking which will be 4m by 4m so will have to use 100mm by 100mm posts for the strength but am aware the depth of cut won't reach this on any saw, but don't mind turning them to make 2 cuts, presuming they will fit?

 

[Harbo]

Maybe frowned upon by woodies, but I have a Rage Evolution SCMS which I use for outside work and taking elsewhere. I paid under £100 for it on a "Silver Wednesday" from B&Q a couple of years ago - I think Screwfix have it on offer at the moment?

May not give a Festool finish but works OK in that situation and will cope with nails!


Rod

 

[Mike.C]

BSM wrote:

but i would say that the laser guides are generally a gimmick and a waste of time, and also that if you are using them for small cuts like decking only then the non sliding type (CMS rather than SCMS) are generally more accurate.

Hi Pete, that maybe your experience, but it is far from the case with my Dewalt DW718, whose factory fitted laser has not moved since day 1, and still cuts spot on today. That is not to say that they are all like this, it's just that I am very happy with mine.

OPJ wrote;

The better the saw, the better the laser, is generally the way it works. They're not 'essential' by any means, if the pre-set stops on the saw are good. But, if you're looking to make compound cuts, aligning the blade to a pencil line then, they can prove invaluable for this (much easier than trying to 'roll' the blade along the line...).

I think you have hit the nail on the head. I spent a lot of money on my SCMS and I have been happy with both it and the laser.

 

[big soft moose]

BSM wrote:

but i would say that the laser guides are generally a gimmick and a waste of time, and also that if you are using them for small cuts like decking only then the non sliding type (CMS rather than SCMS) are generally more accurate.

Hi Pete, that maybe your experience, but it is far from the case with my Dewalt DW718, whose factory fitted laser has not moved since day 1, and still cuts spot on today. That is not to say that they are all like this, it's just that I am very happy with mine.

OPJ wrote;

The better the saw, the better the laser, is generally the way it works. They're not 'essential' by any means, if the pre-set stops on the saw are good. But, if you're looking to make compound cuts, aligning the blade to a pencil line then, they can prove invaluable for this (much easier than trying to 'roll' the blade along the line...).

I think you have hit the nail on the head. I spent a lot of money on my SCMS and I have been happy with both it and the laser.

you are right mike - what i meant was that in the 200 and under ranges that the op is looking at the laser is usually a waste of space

 

[wolf78uk]

Sorry guys all the advice is very much appreciated but if you were in my possition which of the makes I've found would you go for yourself, or heard are good or heard to totally avoid please so I can get a bit of an elimination process going please?

 

[Mike.C]

BSM wrote:

but i would say that the laser guides are generally a gimmick and a waste of time, and also that if you are using them for small cuts like decking only then the non sliding type (CMS rather than SCMS) are generally more accurate.

Hi Pete, that maybe your experience, but it is far from the case with my Dewalt DW718, whose factory fitted laser has not moved since day 1, and still cuts spot on today. That is not to say that they are all like this, it's just that I am very happy with mine.

OPJ wrote;

The better the saw, the better the laser, is generally the way it works. They're not 'essential' by any means, if the pre-set stops on the saw are good. But, if you're looking to make compound cuts, aligning the blade to a pencil line then, they can prove invaluable for this (much easier than trying to 'roll' the blade along the line...).

I think you have hit the nail on the head. I spent a lot of money on my SCMS and I have been happy with both it and the laser.

you are right mike - what i meant was that in the 200 and under ranges that the op is looking at the laser is usually a waste of space

Hi Pete, yes I am sure you are right, and that if sold separately Dewalt would want something close to 50% of that £200 for the laser fitted to mine, so it would not be profitable enough for any manufacturer to spend that sort of money on the lower priced models. :wink:

Wolf I think you will have to up your limit or forget the laser.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Mike.C]

Hi Wolf, sorry mate but our posts crossed. Out of the ones you have chosen I think you should find a dealer who sells SIP and Rexon and try those out, but if you want a laser my above advice still stands.

On the other hand if you are good at fettling or adapting things, you maybe able to set things up just so. But £200 is still a lot of money to waste if you end up being disappointed with your saw.

Sorry to sound so negative, but IMHO they are the facts. Hopefully someone will come along and shoot me down with advice of a model with a laser that is excellent.

Cheers

Mike