Loose MDF door hinges and screws

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H Singh

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Hi guys,

New to this forum and looking for some advice as a novice woodworker.

I had an under stairs MDF cupboard built a few years back and over the past 6/7 months the screws on the doors keep loosening, resulting in the door hinges coming off.

I have a temporary measure such as pushing in some matchsticks within the holes, however after a while they still come loose.

I am looking for advice as to the best way for the screws to permanently stay in if possible.

Would really appreciate some advice on this as it's becoming a pain and would love for the hinges to stay put before I paint it.

I've uploaded a picture of the type of screws and hinges being used.

Thank you!


Hardev
 

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The MDF has split, so you need to address this before trying to get the screws to bite. You could try flooding the split with thin superglue, then squeezing it shut, ideally with a clamp.

Fundamentally, it's a poor choice of hinge for this application, as MDF has very little stregth in this direction, and the layers are prone to separating when a screw is inserted, or has force applied to it after installation.

Do you have any tools to work with, or are you attempting repair with household odds and ends?
 
As above, superglue and cramp, wait to dry, then make a simple jig to centre an 8mm drill bit on the screw holes, insert 8mm dowels with wood glue, redrill the hinge holes to take screws.
 
Thanks Setch,

No tools to work with as of yet so attempting to repair with household odds and ends if possible.

Even where the MDF hasn't split, the screws come off on the other hinges. I presume this is down to the choice of hinge as you have referred to?
 
I’m in agreement of the previous advice but @Setch is on the money regarding the hinge type . Nothing will want to stay the edges of mdf that are subjected to repeated opening and closing. A butterfly type hinge that screws into the face of the mdf will be a better choice especially if you use the type of screws used in kitchen cabinets. Some use a nylon liner and provide a really good fix as long as you don’t over tighten them.
 
It will be tough to repair with household odds and ends to be honest.
A very scrappy and temporary approach if you have no tools is to flood with superglue, as describe above. I personally would wrap the screws with cotton thread from your sewing kit, rather than matchsticks, because the thread will glue itself to the MDF fibres, and the matchsticks will spread the MDF apart when you tighten the screw, so it kind of makes things worse.

In terms of tools to do a proper repair, you need to do the dowel approach mentioned above:
Drill a 6mm hole where each of the screws go (careful not to go to close to the edge and break out the door frame)
Glue in a wooden dowel (superglue or wood glue)
Drill a 2mm or 3mm pilot hole for the screws
Screw the hinge back in.

The tools you'll need are:
A basic drill/driver
6mm wood drill bit
2mm or 3mm wood drill bit
Glue (PVA or Superglue)
Small (12") clamp*

These tools above will be useful for so many things, so it's a good investment in the long run.
*I'd really recommend you get the clamp too, you should clamp the MDF as the glue dries
 
The MDF has split...

You must have different eyes to me.

In his video, the hinge is moving on the frame side not the door side. His still photograph shows a timber (not MDF) frame.
 
You must have different eyes to me.

In his video, the hinge is moving on the frame side not the door side. His still photograph shows a timber (not MDF) frame.
If you click on the photo and zoom in, it shows the hinge screwed into the MDF face frame. The MDF face frame is attached to timber, but the hinge itself is not.
 
Looks like there is a pine wood frame behind/alongside the MDF edge where the MDF itself has split? And the way you've mounted the door with that hinge means the screws don't appear to have gone into the pine frame work for the MDF; but into the MDF edge only? Did you drill pilot holes for the screws prior to actually screwing them in; just a wee 3mm pilot hole would suffice? MDF really doesn't like screws going in without a suitable pilot hole.

Edge screwing even with a pilot hole into MDF isn't the best, especially if the attachment (e.g. a door) is putting stress on it. - unless it's a decent thickness, say 18mm at least - preferably 25mm; and even then the correct type of hinge will make a deal of difference. I suspect the MDF is about 15-18mm. If the lower then not really best choice to mount a hinge one, unless the hinge is also mounted onto something more solid - e.g real timber... - as well; and if the higher then still not the ideal the way to go/hinge to use in your installation as shown.

As already suggested, glue and clamp the MDF tight until it's set. Then "carefully" drill out a hole in the edge to allow a suitable plastic plug to go in; ensure you use the correct drill bit size required for the plug; and in the right location of course. Tap the plug(s) fully home and then simply screw the hinge back in place (screws will likely/ought to be a wee longer than previous). Glueing the plugs may not be required... - if one uses a soft/flexible plug (e.g. Fischer or similar) rather than say the more rigid plaslugs/rawplugs. I prefer Fischer (they're more flexible) plugs which usually come in boxes and clearly show the correct pilot bit to use for the plug, rather than the harder/more solid plasplugs... Screwfix have Fischer in boxes and baggies of similar (the latter usually don't indicate the drill bit size, but a test run on a scrap of wood will soon tell you what size wood bit to use ((brad point bit of course).

The white dowel hinge plugs etc suggested above wouldn't be my first choice; they will require a thicker edge to work with safely/securely; and you'd need longer screws...

But as suggested already a better/different choice of hinge would be the way to go anon; one which allows more fixing to the pine frame work?

Something like this perhaps: https://tinyurl.com/mrj7takz

There are many variations on this type of hinge; so it's useful to go view them them and see which would work to your preferences. And as suggested by others above, perhaps even make a feature of the hinge rather than hide it away with the type of hinge you've used thus far?

If you have decent SF, B&Q, etc.; even better say a Champions Timber locally, go have a look see and you'll find something more suited for the job. And as just above drill pilot hole for the additional/new screw appropriate for the screw used - 3mm at least if into pine; and for the MDF you may need to go to 4mm - but try that on a scrap of MDF first to determine the best pilto bit there..

Ideally the hinge would/should be more securely mounted onto the pine frame work as well partially onto the edge of the MDF panel.

Equally you may find it wise(r) to reposition the duff/loose hinge (perhaps both) slightly even after the glue/clamp process; regardless of what type of hinge(s) you settle for?

However you resolve this, remember that the door is putting a deal of torque/stress on the hinge mounting..., so it's essential that the screws are well and truly applied.
 
The MDF has split, so you need to address this before trying to get the screws to bite. You could try flooding the split with thin superglue, then squeezing it shut, ideally with a clamp.

Fundamentally, it's a poor choice of hinge for this application, as MDF has very little stregth in this direction, and the layers are prone to separating when a screw is inserted, or has force applied to it after installation.

Do you have any tools to work with, or are you attempting repair with household odds and ends?
Hi guys,

New to this forum and looking for some advice as a novice woodworker.

I had an under stairs MDF cupboard built a few years back and over the past 6/7 months the screws on the doors keep loosening, resulting in the door hinges coming off.

I have a temporary measure such as pushing in some matchsticks within the holes, however after a while they still come loose.

I am looking for advice as to the best way for the screws to permanently stay in if possible.

Would really appreciate some advice on this as it's becoming a pain and would love for the hinges to stay put before I paint it.

I've uploaded a picture of the type of screws and hinges being used.

Thank you!


Hardev
I Would never fix hinges into the end of Mdf. It just splits and spreads. Best bet is a blum type hinge if it would work with 18mm board fitted thickness of Mdf door back from front of frame to fix hinge plates to.
 
If the door isn't at least 18mm then you what you could do is "frame" the door on the inside with something like 15x12mm, as that will provide the additional thickness needed to successfully mount Blum hinges. And then presuming the frame work forming the door reveal/opening is wide enough (and again at least 18mm thick) you'll be able to mount the the other part of the hinge and thus have very solidly mounted hinges, and one which allow some of adjustment. You screw the inner frame to to the rear of the door - taking care not to to pierce the outer surface of the door of course. And one might even apply a spot of glue (Evostic likely will do nicely) as well to that framework as well as using screws. Remember - as previous with MDF, drill a small diameter pilot hole through the frame work and into the MDF before driving in the actual screws (again taking care not to to pierce the outer surface of the door of course with the pilot drill or screws).

There are excellent jigs about to really make fitting Blum and silimlar hinges really very simple - dare one say easy... And Peter Millard (amongst others) has superb videos showing how to mount them - with the door over laid, or flush inset (which is what you have a present).

Blum hinges (and perhaps the jig/installation guides) of course will be just a wee bit more expensive; but they will do an excellent job.
 
As above, once split stabilised with thin c.a. insert dowels from the inside (that coincide with the screw holes) just short of the outer face then re-drill the hinge screw holes through the dowels.
 

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