Long Hole boring

[jkilner]

Hello
I have a Kity lathe which is designed to long hole bore through the headstock
It is not possible through the tailstock. I have a 2mt 8mm (5/16) live centre
I need a long boring tool that is either not handed or left handed
Most I have seen are right handed with the exception of the Record Power CWA111
This seems to be either square ended OR it seems possible to regrind as a left hand as there is no spiral fluting
Can anyone advise me on this or other alternatives.
I have considered a Left hand 8mm drill and welding an extension as a last resort
Thanks in advance
John

 

[Dalboy]

I have the record one and the auger is a load of rubbish it is OK for the first few holes the way it is designed is terrible for the want of another word. You can not change the cutting angle as you are suggesting as the end way is very flimsy. If you want I will take a photo.

 

[jkilner]

Thanks for the reply
A photo would be useful. I was a little suspicious due to the low price.
Has anyone else a non handed or left hand long boring tool?
John

 

[joethedrummer]

Hello John,,I tacked a RH 6mm drill to 2 foot of ms rod to come in from the tailstock end and it works a treat apart from having to relieve to get rid of the shavings, so if all else fails tacking a LH drill to some rod looks a good option if you have to come the other way.
,,,joe,,

 

[cedarwood]

The hole in the headstock end is not meant for hole boring as the shaft is rotating, it is there merely to allow removal of morse taper fittings at the drive end. If you do use the headstock end you are in danger of the revolving shaft catching on the borer and you will not be able to hold on to it, it is bad enough when you fail to remove the tool often enough using the tailstock (which is not rotating) and the tool jams in the work piece.

 

[joethedrummer]

The hole in the headstock end is not meant for hole boring as the shaft is rotating, it is there merely to allow removal of morse taper fittings at the drive end. If you do use the headstock end you are in danger of the revolving shaft catching on the borer and you will not be able to hold on to it, it is bad enough when you fail to remove the tool often enough using the tailstock (which is not rotating) and the tool jams in the work piece.

Quite agree with you cedarwood,,,

 

[jkilner]

Thanks for the reply - The Kity manual actually shows it done this way in the description and photo's. I just do not have the LH tool they show.
It is an ancient lathe and possibly not H&S correct in these days

 

[joethedrummer]

Thanks for the reply - The Kity manual actually shows it done this way in the description and photo's. I just do not have the LH tool they show.
It is an ancient lathe and possibly not H&S correct in these days

Hi John,, LH drill thro" headstock seems to be the way forward then,, H&S?, we all take well advised risks,, just getting up in the morning is full of danger if you don"t think it thro"
,,,,joe,,

 

[woodfarmer]

I think maybe if you remove the tailstock and make up a 8mm clearance hole in a bar that fits into the socket for your rest. then use a normal boring bar. Not difficult to center the hole by looking at the dip left by your centre when the tailstock was in place.

Incidentally if you are having trouble drilling holes true, it may well help to spin the drill also.

You could probably bodge a support by turning down a section of square wood. leave a bit of square at the end and drill a vertical hole through from side to side. this will be your boring bar rest so if possible use a pillar drill to get it reasonably square.

Hope that helps

 

[Paul Hannaby]

One of the tool suppliers used to sell a long hole boring support which was effectively a hollow ring centre that went in the toolpost so those with solid tailstocks could make lamps. You remove the tailstock, line up the ring centre in the toolpost and mount your blank, then drill away!

It may have been Craft Supplies that sold them so this may end up as a dead end!