Log sealing

[transatlantic]

I had some logs given to me that I sealed with thinned down PVA (50/50) and then stored in your average garden shed on a shelf, and unfortunately, they have proceeded to still crack only a week later.

So I then tried using two coats of non thinned PVA on some newer logs (same condition as others) and they have cracked too

I will add that the logs were damp at the point of adding the PVA as I thought I had to seal them ASAP, so I am not sure if that is an issue?

I've heard of people using paint, but would that stick to wet logs?

 

[Graham Warner]

Hi,

I use "Chestnut End Seal" it's a acrylic so it's very easy to use & clean afterwards, they recommend 2 to 3 coats but it's good stuff

 

[Duncan A]

Seasoning logs is a black art but it largely depends upon the type of wood, how wet it is, ambient temperature, and how large the log is.
Some woods are more prone to splitting than others. Fruit woods tend to be bad.
Wetter wood has more drying to do, so more potential for dimensional change and cracking stresses.
If the environment is too hot, drying is too fast = more cracks.
If the log is more than a few inches diameter, cut it down the middle to remove the pith. Most cracks join up with the pith.
You are doing right to seal the ends but also try to keep the logs as long as possible so losing the last few inches to cracking doesn't matter so much. No matter what you do, expect a good number of failures.
Duncan

 

[Dalboy]

Some times even with the most care in sealing the wood it will still split, this is just down to the type of wood. I tend to leave most of my logs as long as I can and seal the ends, they can still split but I have found that this mostly only splits at the end I just cut that off after leaving for the drying time I have decided it needs. Roughing out some of it and sealing can help reduce the chances of it splitting the only disadvantage is that you will be stuck with that shape when it comes to the final turning.
If I want spindles then cut out the pith and cut into square cross section and to the lengths that you either want or over long and cut off what is needed for a project I then would reseal the cut end again

 

[TFrench]

The best results I've had is using hot wax. Old frying pan, cheapy worktop hotplate from amazon and some paraffin wax. It only needs a very light coating. I've tried pva and always had a few cracks.

 

[Doug B]

I’ve tried all manner of ways over the years & if the wood wants to split it will.
these days I dip the ends of logs in PVA & then dip them in wood shavings, I have plenty of those the shavings help keep a thick layer of PVA in place whilst it dries.

most important is to remove the pith, for turning timber like in the photo I just split the log down the line of the pith the remnants are the darker brown streaks.

 

[Cooper]

I use mostly found bits of wood, often rescued from tree fellers in the street. As mentioned above I split them using the first sign of a crack. I find this makes it much easier for the outer layers of the log to shrink and release the tension without the need for more cracks. Recently I have also popped pieces into soft polythene bags, which slows the drying. I used to seal the ends but probably wasn't thorough enough and whole logs still split.
I enjoy turning the wood when its still green so the only reason I have it lying around is because I haven't had time to use it.
When I prepare a log, I try to do it knowing what I'm going to make i.e. if a bowl I leave it as a D section but if its to be used between centres I trim it into as many as six pieces if its a big log. as in the pictures. I have used wet fruit woods and laurel, bay, sycamore from my garden without splitting, the end pieces have often warped though.
The pictures show an oak log I turned into spinning tops, for last years Easter eggs and a pear log to make this year's.

 

[transatlantic]

Cheers guys. I have actually already split some of the long logs in half to make side grain bowls.

But the very short logs (~10" diameter, ~5" thick) I will be using for end grain bowls, and they seem to be the ones I have not had much luck with. So I guess I'll try roughing those out and then sealing?

I like the idea of dipping the sealed bit into shavings!

 

[Garno]

What does sealing do?
Is it to stop moisture escaping or to stop it going into the wood?
Lastly if it is any of the above why not us a paste or a rubber based sealant? I really am like a f*rt in a trance trying to fathom it out.

 

[transatlantic]

What does sealing do?
Is it to stop moisture escaping or to stop it going into the wood?
Lastly if it is any of the above why not us a paste or a rubber based sealant? I really am like a f*rt in a trance trying to fathom it out.

Wood releases moisture (dries) much quicker at the ends (end grain) than the sides (side grain). Where as we want it to release the moisture equally across the entire piece. When one section dries quicker than another, stresses are introduced and it cracks.

The idea behind sealing the end grain is to reduce how quickly it can release the moisture so that it is more inline with the side grain. Resulting in the piece drying equally as quick throughout.

 

[transatlantic]

GRRRRR

 

[gregmcateer]

I feel your pain.
The fully round one doesn't surprise me - I learned that the hard way, too.
Not sure of their sizes, but might be worth splitting down the spilt and make some small things - might not be the plan originally, but can still improve your skills

 

[kevinlightfoot]

Buy a book called Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley very informative.

 

[Arnold9801]

I use old dental wax for sealing my logs. I used to be a Dental Technician and am aware that they discard a lot of denture wax which is ideal for sealing.

Have a look for your nearest Proshetic dental lab is and see if they’ll collect it for you?