log saw sharpening?

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digitalbot

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A few saw sharpening questions if I may.

Would I be correct in calling this a 'kings tooth' profile?

What do you use to set this saw with. Is it one of the bigger saw sets or is it done with a hammer and small anvil to swage the teeth over?

When it comes to sharpening, would I file the inside face of the gullet "U's" or just the 4 inner triangular edges?
Also, do the front starter teeth get the same set as the main body teeth?

thanks
 

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digitalbot":1zjxmlay said:
A few saw sharpening questions if I may.

Would I be correct in calling this a 'kings tooth' profile?

What do you use to set this saw with. Is it one of the bigger saw sets or is it done with a hammer and small anvil to swage the teeth over?

When it comes to sharpening, would I file the inside face of the gullet "U's" or just the 4 inner triangular edges?
Also, do the front starter teeth get the same set as the main body teeth?

thanks
I have one just like that hanging in my workshop with it's guards on. best place for it, or the tip,When I started out many moons ago I bought a long bowsaw and clamped a mole wrench on the other end of it, and when cutting logs on the pull stroke it was like a knife through butter, had to ease off a bit on the push stroke though i:e like a Jap saw
Timber
 
timber":13hfkxy8 said:
I have one just like that hanging in my workshop with it's guards on. best place for it, or the tip,When I started out many moons ago I bought a long bowsaw and clamped a mole wrench on the other end of it, and when cutting logs on the pull stroke it was like a knife through butter, had to ease off a bit on the push stroke though i:e like a Jap saw
Timber

Interesting, my experience is the exact opposite. Bought a one man crosscut saw and threw all the bow saws in a skip. Actually, two man saws are the best. Make the job much easier than it looks. Just remember to pull, never push !
 
I'd follow the US forest service information on saw sharpening, either manuals or the videos on youtube. I haven't seen a video of that tooth profile, but between the manuals and videos, I'm sure you can find enough.

There are a lot of americans who haven't sharpened many saws attempting to put out tutorials so that they can get viewers, and by the comment sections, most people in the US don't have the sense to be able to tell who actually knows what they're doing (you'd think awkward use of a file and poor results would tip someone off).
 
thanks for the responses and the links.
I think i'll have a go at sharpening it and see how it performs. It was only a few quid and it's only for the house fire logs.
Not too fond of the bow saws myself as I find they tend to flex too much in anything larger than about 6".
 
digitalbot":caqt87y3 said:
thanks for the responses and the links.
I think i'll have a go at sharpening it and see how it performs. It was only a few quid and it's only for the house fire logs.
Not too fond of the bow saws myself as I find they tend to flex too much in anything larger than about 6".

I think the size of saw frame and technique is important, keep the hand down and let the saw do the work, usually they're almost like a chainsaw, without the noise!
Regards Rodders
 
Inspiration, I suppose, from a *very* competent user of saws in context (interesting to note the tools/jacks/chains used that one might be able to go without using a chainsaw).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1xykGoOEzA

(1 1/2 cords cut, split and stacked entirely be human power in 12 hours, I'd call that a significant pace for sure!!)

The link for crosscut saw stuff starting from the USDA is under "publicresources.org" in a video series called "the crosscut filer, part x of x"
(the guy doing the filing is the same guy who shows up on page 20 of the USDA manual from above, just several decades older)

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... osscut+saw

Some of the fluff videos I referred to are shown clogging up the youtube results, folks who are much more adept at talking and acquiring subscribers than they are at sharpening and using saws.

(George Wilson used to refer to the earlier versions of these folks as the type who feel the need to write a book every time they do a project).
 
blackrodd":w0r7le6k said:
I think the size of saw frame and technique is important, keep the hand down and let the saw do the work, usually they're almost like a chainsaw, without the noise!
Regards Rodders
Yes!

When I do my conservation volunteering I get irritated with the "anything more than an inch in diameter needs a chainsaw" attitude... Good bowsaw will easily deal with pretty large trees when talking from a felling perspective. Obviously I can see the point in chainsaws if its a commercial operation where speed is everything and the trees might be huge.

I have a two man saw thats fun to use even though its blunt as hell! I love to be able to sharpen that, so look forward to watching and reading through the guides in this post when I get another moment :)
 
Burning calories by hand sawing/chopping firewood makes me feel slightly better about the number of calories consumed by eating Mars Bars.
 
Rhyolith":26gccdky said:
Yes!

When I do my conservation volunteering I get irritated with the "anything more than an inch in diameter needs a chainsaw" attitude... Good bowsaw will easily deal with pretty large trees when talking from a felling perspective. Obviously I can see the point in chainsaws if its a commercial operation where speed is everything and the trees might be huge.

I have a two man saw thats fun to use even though its blunt as hell! I love to be able to sharpen that, so look forward to watching and reading through the guides in this post when I get another moment :)

One of my friends from uni is a Conservation Ecologist with the woodland trust, she's got a chainsaw licence but struggles to use the big saws that they have (she's about 5 foot nothing and thin as a rake), apparently the bigger male volunteers are always shocked at how quickly and accurately she can fell trees with a 3½lb axe.
 
I have never been taught how to fell with an axe. I do know its a very powerful tool to those skilled in its use :)
 
Rhyolith":383ja9s6 said:
I have never been taught how to fell with an axe. I do know its a very powerful tool to those skilled in its use :)

There seems to be a tool-rule; the simpler a tool is, the more versatile it is, but the more skill it takes to use.

Our Scandinavian friends build a whole woodworking culture around the axe and the knife.

BugBear
 
It is one of the things that people inexperienced in any craft seem to forget; just because there is a video on the web about something , it doesnt mean that it is in any way correct. Some people just seem to love the sound of their own voice and to see their face on the screen. I have come across some truly awful videos for various things that I have wanted to gain an insight into and increase my skill level.
 
bugbear":29or6ppv said:
Rhyolith":29or6ppv said:
I have never been taught how to fell with an axe. I do know its a very powerful tool to those skilled in its use :)

There seems to be a tool-rule; the simpler a tool is, the more versatile it is, but the more skill it takes to use.

Our Scandinavian friends build a whole woodworking culture around the axe and the knife.

BugBear
I think axes in on an exclusive club of literally very powerful hand tools, the amount of material you can remove with an axe per second is in a different league to chisels, planes and saws.

I would not see simpler makes for more versatile, not at all. Nor does it have a direct correlation with the skill required. Just think through a few simple and complex tools and it becomes clear quite rapidly :) ... sorry I am being awkward #-o
 
Rhyolith":3tx0ncdc said:
I think axes in on an exclusive club of literally very powerful hand tools, the amount of material you can remove with an axe per second is in a different league to chisels, planes and saws.

Have seen a froe in use? Other simple versatile tools are the drawknife, and also our friend the chisel.

Many of the joints that are cut with specialised planes can be cut with a chisel (just watch Roy Underhill) but it takes more skill.

I would not see simpler makes for more versatile, not at all. Nor does it have a direct correlation with the skill required. Just think through a few simple and complex tools and it becomes clear quite rapidly :) ... sorry I am being awkward #-o[/quote]

Could you give examples to support your point?

The whole intent of many complex tools (e.g. a moving fillister, with fences for width and depth, and a build in nicker) is to provide control, so that the user doesn't have to. Otherwise, why would they be made?! A plain rebate plane is more versatile, but (...) harder to use.

BugBear
 
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