Linseed oil and linseed oil paint

[sawtooth-9]

I agree with ED65

Ti O2 is not toxic ( I guess anyone who uses toothpaste, skin care products and sunscreen - should be dead ! )

Pigments in paints are what provide UV ( outdoor weathering ) resistance.
The oil, penetrates the wood and helps the pigment to penetrate the pores of the timber, the oil itself has "some" UV protection, but it's limited. Mostly the UV assists in polymerisation of the oil. . On exposure to air and UV, the various oils can "thicken" or polymerise providing a "hard" finish.

Modern "paints" substitute a polymer ( eg Urethane in a higher viscosity base )for a slow curing oil. These polymers have UV additives and can generally carry a higher level f UV absorbing pigments

You have not stated what you want to protect - perhaps it's time for a little pragmatism rather than going down a "rabbit hole" - or is this just "fishing" ?

 

[Jacob]

....

You have not stated what you want to protect - perhaps it's time for a little pragmatism rather than going down a "rabbit hole" - or is this just "fishing" ?

Generally the issue is protecting external joinery. Obvious really.
And in my experience it protects it really well, though it is effectively "sacrificial" and will be slowly lost from the surface.

 

[Kittyhawk]

I've done same process on a sanded down mid century modern table top, but with raw oil. Very quick to apply and rub down but a long wait for a good finish - probably did about 10 applications. It looks really good, not too shiny and brings out the colour of the teak, afromosia etc

I've only ever used boiled Linseed Oil on the understanding that it dries quicker than raw Linseed Oil but I don't know anything about it other than that. Is there a reason that you opted to use the raw oil?

 

[DrDarren]

Raw linseed as a primer and paint made with boiled linseed and pigments.
1344ae24-8229-4f01-851a-7645ad9ce96a seem to be the only UK source though there have been other suppliers.
The downside is limited range of colours tending to be a bit dull, and an eggshell/ matt finish. No high gloss means less easy to clean quite so perfectly, though presumably it could be varnished in the traditional way

There is another. Have not used him yet but intend to this summer. natural linseed oil ecologically green paint

 

[Jacob]

There is another. Have not used him yet but intend to this summer. natural linseed oil ecologically green paint

I emailed them a couple of times and had no reply. I assumed they were no longer trading as the website looks unchanged over many years.

 

[Jacob]

I've only ever used boiled Linseed Oil on the understanding that it dries quicker than raw Linseed Oil but I don't know anything about it other than that. Is there a reason that you opted to use the raw oil?

Just from picking up hints here and there. Sometimes contradictory but the suggestion is that raw penetrates better.

 

[Jacob]

Generally the issue is protecting external joinery. Obvious really.
And in my experience it protects it really well, though it is effectively "sacrificial" and will be slowly lost from the surface.

To which I should have added; as distinct from modern paints where the wood is sacrificial instead, with the paint sometimes still in good order on completely waterlogged timber!

 

[imageel]

I've not used linseed oil paint for many years, 20+ at least however would agree that it is easy to apply and long lasting if used internally. I can't remember the brand I last used but it was a pre-mix of linseed and a fine white - most likely chalk powder and whilst I'd agree with the comments wrt drying times a big advantage is its ability to take dyes readily and achieve a broad range of muted to quite strong colours.
I've not used it externally however I have used Tung oil both internally and externally and whilst it like many of the translucent exterior paints, offers very little UV protection it does provide good weather protection.
Another advantage of both is that repairs or touch ups can be applied subsequently with almost seamless results.
I've also successfully used Linseed internally on plastered walls as what is referred to as a distemper finish - this is quite durable but will darken somewhat if exposed to strong sunlight and the only disadvantage I can think of aside from the extended drying times and smell -you either love it or hate it, is the fact that AFAIK there is little other than abrasives that can remove it once cured.
WRT to drying - this is for both linseed and Tung actually oxidation of the oils and it is for this reason that any rags or cloths used for either application or cleaning of tools need to be disposed of safely by dampening them with water since the high surface area afforded by the materials fibres can allow the heat generated through the oxidation process to combust the material....
As an example of the kind of protection and finish this can give I used Tung oil to finish my Sapele window frames on my workshop, I just checked my original photos exif data and this was in the summer of 2011 and exterior wise aside from UV fading the frames are still in pretty good condition and in particular the end-grain of the cills show very little evidence of shrinkage and still look as crisp as when new -
As built -

Today -

/Ed

 

[DrDarren]

I emailed them a couple of times and had no reply. I assumed they were no longer trading as the website looks unchanged over many years.

Oh what a shame. I really liked his attitude and what he was offering.

 

[Jacob]

Oh what a shame. I really liked his attitude and what he was offering.

Might be worth a try - let us know if you have any luck!

 

[niall Y]

I have mixed opinions about linseed oil paints. From my own experience, they are not without their downsides. I believe the reason they functioned so well in the past ,was the copious amounts of lead used in their preparation.
With the paints used in the Victorian period, it seems to be the primers and undercoats that did the bulk of the protection, with the top coat supplying the colour and a degree of gloss. Along with the linseed oil, the primer seems to have consisted of a mixture of white and red lead, giving it that telltale pink colouring.
A few years ago I decorated the exterior of a nice old farmhouse, using the 'Holkham Hall' paint supplied by the customer. I found it pleasant to apply and it was dry by the next day. One of the downsides was it didn't like being rained upon - which is quite likely to happen here in West Wales. It dulls and roughs the surface, which can only be got rid of by sanding and over painting.By the time the scaffolding came down, it didn't look to me like the house had just been painted, though the customer was pleased with the result
Fast forward to now , and on my own house I'm considering using it for some barge-boards , that I repaired and painted a couple of years ago. Being in an exposed position, the paint has deteriorated badly, so repainting is a priority. I've been looking a the price of the linseed -oil paint and I can't really justify spending so much WHAT.... £139 A TIN! Bearing in mind decorators in the past made their own paint, how difficult can it be? So, with boiled linseed at £12 'ish for 2 Litres and a Kilo of black pigment about £ 13. then even adding in the cost of a glass muller. I should be quids in.

 

[Jacob]

I have mixed opinions about linseed oil paints. From my own experience, they are not without their downsides. I believe the reason they functioned so well in the past ,was the copious amounts of lead used in their preparation.
With the paints used in the Victorian period, it seems to be the primers and undercoats that did the bulk of the protection, with the top coat supplying the colour and a degree of gloss. Along with the linseed oil, the primer seems to have consisted of a mixture of white and red lead, giving it that telltale pink colouring.

A lot of people make the lead assumption but it seems that the linseed oil paint, not lead content, is the main issue.

A few years ago I decorated the exterior of a nice old farmhouse, using the 'Holkham Hall' paint supplied by the customer. I found it pleasant to apply and it was dry by the next day. One of the downsides was it didn't like being rained upon - which is quite likely to happen here in West Wales. It dulls and roughs the surface, which can only be got rid of by sanding and over painting.By the time the scaffolding came down, it didn't look to me like the house had just been painted, though the customer was pleased with the result

Yes it doesn't look as bright and shiny as modern gloss but it certainly is OK in the rain!

Fast forward to now , and on my own house I'm considering using it for some barge-boards , that I repaired and painted a couple of years ago. Being in an exposed position, the paint has deteriorated badly,

2 years? Modern paint. 10 years with linseed oil paint.

so repainting is a priority. I've been looking a the price of the linseed -oil paint and I can't really justify spending so much WHAT.... £139 A TIN!

But that'd be enough for several acres of bargeboard! Price; about twice that of modern paint but about twice the coverage, 3 to 5 times the lifespan, no primer or undercoat, much easier and quicker to apply. In other words very much cheaper in the long run.

Bearing in mind decorators in the past made their own paint, how difficult can it be? So, with boiled linseed at £12 'ish for 2 Litres and a Kilo of black pigment about £ 13. then even adding in the cost of a glass muller. I should be quids in.

Have a go! Should be able to find some old recipes on line. I've got a book of them I'll have a look.
The only problem is you won't know if it's any good until 5 or more years have elapsed to prove its durability
PS we've just about finished a 16 big window (maintenance) job with less than 1 litre paint (£41.50) and about £5 worth of putty and raw oil (as primer where needed). Fairly confident it will be good for another 10 years at least, but with occasional inspections for any problems - e.g. loose putty.

 

[niall Y]

A lot of people make the lead assumption but it seems that the linseed oil paint, not lead content, is the main issue.

Yes it doesn't look as bright and shiny as modern gloss but it certainly is OK in the rain!

2 years? Modern paint. 10 years with linseed oil paint.

But that'd be enough for several acres of bargeboard! Price; about twice that of modern paint but about twice the coverage, 3 to 5 times the lifespan, no primer or undercoat, much easier and quicker to apply. In other words very much cheaper in the long run.

Have a go! Should be able to find some old recipes on line. I've got a book of them I'll have a look.
The only problem is you won't know if it's any good until 5 or more years have elapsed to prove its durability
PS we've just about finished a 16 big window (maintenance) job with less than 1 litre paint (£41.50) and about £5 worth of putty and raw oil (as primer where needed). Fairly confident it will be good for another 10 years at least, but with occasional inspections for any problems - e.g. loose putty.

Hi there I would have thought that,there must be some benefit from lead based paint, otherwise you wouldn't still be a able to use it on historic buildings, By 'you' I mean licensed contractors, rather than us plebs. If it was deemed as effective, surely non-lead linseed-oil paints would be specified, instead.

I'm warming to the idea of making my own paint though I think I will include some Terebine to assist drying. i'm aware from having used Artists oil paint that colours can dry at wildly differing rates, depending on the pigment used.

Re the barge boards, they aren't the only bits that need painting I have a couple of gates where the paint has disappeared where knots are - despite me having applied knotting. For some reason knotting solution doesn't seem to work for me anymore!
Niall

 

[Adam W.]

I made mine, it's quite easy and very cheap compared to the commercial stuff.....Making Oil Paint.

It cures faster if subject to UV or plain old sunshine, which is free at source.

 

[Jacob]

Hi there I would have thought that,there must be some benefit from lead based paint, otherwise you wouldn't still be a able to use it on historic buildings, By 'you' I mean licensed contractors, rather than us plebs. If it was deemed as effective, surely non-lead linseed-oil paints would be specified, instead.

......

The thing is nobody knows if a paint is going to last for, say, 15 years until 15 years passes, so the ideas evolve slowly by trial and error and a lot of guesswork.

 

[Marischal Ellis]

You maybe interested that Linseed oil used to be used exclusively in the fishing industry were the plain look (or tar) was all there was. Used (almost exclusively) in Norway to very good effect. Was the mainstay of joiners giving something a rub, glazing beads or tool handles. Boat hulls were scraped down ever year before recoating. Glazing bead or a tool handles. Painted boats came about as bigger harbours were use due to the bigger harbours being dirty from oil, grease and so on. Varnish not a good alternative.

 

[woodieallen]

I am, as I have posted before, 100% against linseed oil paint. Yes, I do know how to put it on thinly. And I do know that it takes forever to dry. And I do know how badly it attracts aka feeds mould and fungus. I have an outside building where I 'bought' into the hype re linseed oil paint and it's one of the biggest mistakes I've made.

Delighted to say that I managed to get rid of most of it and have now put on a proper paint. No mould !

Found an old can lurking in the shed and took great pleasure taking it down the tip.

 

[Jacob]

I am, as I have posted before, 100% against linseed oil paint. Yes, I do know how to put it on thinly. And I do know that it takes forever to dry. And I do know how badly it attracts aka feeds mould and fungus. I have an outside building where I 'bought' into the hype re linseed oil paint and it's one of the biggest mistakes I've made.

Delighted to say that I managed to get rid of most of it and have now put on a proper paint. No mould !

Found an old can lurking in the shed and took great pleasure taking it down the tip.

AllI can say is that my experience so far says exactly the opposite!
In fact a great relief - the only problems I've had have been with modern paint and I've been worrying about the current job for sometime!
When I was doing a lot of sashes I used to ali prime them and leave the painting to someone else. Then if anything went wrong he'd get the blame.
PS I did get flecks of mould on a door but they washed off easily. Surprised - it hadn't happened before and it might have been due to using a different brand of raw oil which someone gave me half a tin of.

 

[gregmcateer]

And now I'm proper confused !

I've used linseed oil paint on my porch and it was definitely easy to apply, BUT I've needed to clean and re apply in less than 5 years and now, about 2 years further on, it's faded and most annoyingly, mould keeps appearing.

Any advice on getting rid of the mould very very welcome!!

 

[Jacob]

And now I'm proper confused !

I've used linseed oil paint on my porch and it was definitely easy to apply, BUT I've needed to clean and re apply in less than 5 years and now, about 2 years further on, it's faded and most annoyingly, mould keeps appearing.

Any advice on getting rid of the mould very very welcome!!

Quick wash down with soapy water and a sponge, then washed or hosed off with clean water.
Were you using the Allback stuff or something else?