LED lights

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artie

Sawdust manufacturer.
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I didn't think out the lighting when I put "the shap" together.

I just had the spark bung up 4 fluorescent tubes.

In no time 2 were broken and I haven't replaced them, knowing full well the same would happen again.

I also don't like working under artificial light and mostly I don't have to.

But we are at the time of year when it may be necessary to have some help in the visibility dept.

I've seen replacement led tubes for sale to replace the old fluorescent ones, are they as easily broken.

Solutions welcome.
 
Look at led panels. I find the light from these much better than tubes.
Not in the sense that they are brighter (which they are) but the light is better defused. I bought from toolstation but some here have found much cheaper sources.

Edit: just 'got' the shap :)
 
I would not bother with fitting LED tubes to your existing fittings, just as easily damaged and if you want LED lighting then use complete LED units and buy quality not el cheapo as they are not that efficient. If you want an easy solution that is also cheaper I am using
I am using lamp battens that accept LED bulbs, I have five arranged on a board 300mm square with an angled holder in each corner and a straight holder in the centre using 15 watt LED bulbs, equivalent of 100watts in old money. I treat this as background lighting and it is like daylight but I then use a magnetic base light on any machine I am using and a small floodlight above the workbench.
 
I replaced all my tubes (6) with LED replacements and love them. They switch on instantly and are daylight colour. They are sturdy, but if you hit them hard enough, they would break. I can't remember how much I paid for them on-line, but I went for Philips brand since I have had so many failures with no name brand LED's. The light output was higher than the equivalent tubes. You have to replace the starter with a shorting starter which is supplied with the tube. I have had them for about two years and (touch wood) all the LED's are still OK. I also supplement my lighting with 10W floodlights I got at Home Bargains, they are eLuminate brand and are fantastic. 10W 6500K and £5!! They have been very reliable, none have failed. Unfortunately HB have stopped selling them and I haven't found a new source yet. I also have many eLuminate replacement bulbs, MR16, MR10 and bayonet. All have been very reliable and they are excellent value. I stay away from Luceco. My experience is they some of them will fail within a few months and they won't replace without proof of purchase...who keeps every receipt?
 
EvilBay, £20 - look up 48W Ceiling Suspended Recessed LED Panel White Light Office Lighting 600 x 600

If you go to the company you can buy the hanging kits if you want them. Brilliant, in both senses.
 
I bought 4 LED battens to replace old fluorescent tubes, and am pleased with the effect, agree with what others have said regarding the light quality, I bought mine from YESSS electrical couple of years ago, reasonably priced at the time.

My pillar drill sits in the corner, and when I use it, I cast a shadow, not wanting to rearrange stuff or faff around with another ceiling light, I installed some left over led strip lighting (diffused) around the two corner walls, and this has worked out perfect for the drill. Need to take care tho, or my workspace will end up looking like Santa’s grotto!
 
just to chuck in my tuppence worth, i have use the tubes from toolstation and have not been disappointed. as others say instant switch on and very good light levels. the v tac tubes from toolstation are actually plastic tubes so less likely to get broken if hit accidentally
 
Installed the thin LED panels in the new workshop, wonderful things. Even light and the daylight colour makes colour checking a breeze.
 
Thanks for all the info, but yesterday I lucked into two fluorescent tubes for very little dosh. So I put them up, but I made a modification, I moved the light fitting to the side of the beam, instead of the bottom. I have gained 100mm headroom and significantly reduced the chance of breaking them again.
I'm happy to report that there has been such a miniscule reduction on light diffusion that I intend to modify the other two tomorrow.
I might even have room to install a boom arm, a la Jackal.
 

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If (when 😉) you do decide to upgrade your lights, I can recommend, as have a few others, LED panels. I've got 6 of the toolstation cheapies in my 7x5m garage/workshop, and its brilliant (haha, pardon the pun). I could probably have 'got away with' 4, but the 6 leave nowhere in shadow and doesn't even dark in there if you walk in on a bright day. There is also no flickering so no stroboscopic effect when using power tools. Mine are just botched up at the moment with a screw through an offcut in each corner, but one of the up coming 'learnby doing' projects will be to make picture frames around them. Its great with the white painted walls, but even with the bare block it was good enough to work in.

WhatsApp Image 2020-11-07 at 21.20.42.jpeg
 
I just got a couple of led lights for our house. They are very cheap ( 30 quid on Amazon ) ridiculously bright and have a remote control for warm/cool light and brightness.
We are going to get a couple more now.
Led is the way from now on.

Ollie
 
There is also no flickering so no stroboscopic effect when using power tools.

Just a quick note - modern led has a much higher frequency so it doesn't appear to flicker as much, but it is still doing so, and you could get a strobe effect with a router bit or whatever. The problem isn't totally eradicated.
 
I use one 600x600 led panel and 3 smaller led panels, 6500k super bright model in my 3x4m shed and they are fantastic. Excellent and bright and no shadows. I would highly recommend like others to use these.
 
Just a quick note - modern led has a much higher frequency so it doesn't appear to flicker as much, but it is still doing so, and you could get a strobe effect with a router bit or whatever. The problem isn't totally eradicated.
Besides the nature of the power supply, I think that the persistence of the phosphors is an (if not the) important factor.
 
Besides the nature of the power supply, I think that the persistence of the phosphors is an (if not the) important factor.

You may well be right. I know LED lighting for TV and has required an increase in frequency rather than the persistence, otherwise it would still strobe, whether the same applies for domestic products or not I'm not certain.
 
You may well be right. I know LED lighting for TV and has required an increase in frequency rather than the persistence, otherwise it would still strobe, whether the same applies for domestic products or not I'm not certain.
I've noticed that when I turn off an Osram BC lamp it takes a significant fraction of a second to stop glowing - which may of course be stored energy in the supply and/or the persistence of the phosphors.
 
I wonder if there's some circuitry in those to mimic the fade you get with conventional incandescent lamps, as generally led has almost no curve on power off...
 
HZSANUE B22 Bayonet Cap LED Garage Light, Daylight White 60W 6500K 5500Lm Deformable Shop lamp with 4 Adjustable Panels, LED Ceiling Light, for Garages, Basement, Workshop, Warehouse(Pack of 1) [Energy Class A+]
I bought this as an additional light for my shop. Superb. I'm going to buy another one and get rid of fluorescent tune. Simply plugs into standard bayonet bulb fitting ( also available in ES). Had one in a box so ran an extension cable with a plug on from socket - two core as plastic fitting. Simples
 

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