Halogen to LED. Can anybody throw some light on my problem?

[Henniep]

These aren't on a dimmer are they? Many old dimmer switches won't work without some resistive load and will give results like this where the LEDs won't illuminate properly unless there at least one halogen (etc) lamp in the circuit.

Some leds bulbs will not operate through a dimmer circuit. Check the packaging where, if applicable, it's specified "not suitable for dimmers"

 

[Yojevol]

If you weren't aware of the dimmers. why not just replace them with single pole switches? It would work out cheaper.

Because the main 2-way switches wouldn't work.

If he was not aware of them, he would not have been using them.

They could be deleted altogether. Wago the wires together inside the box and put a blanking plate over the top.

There is the remote possibility that the dimmer position switches might be used when entering the kitchen from the garage or conservatory, so I'll keep that aspect operational.

Why do sparkies ram so many wires into a standard box like that? I'd take that box out and fit a deep one and use Wago or Ideal connectors to tidy up the earth's and neutrals.

Not a job for the present. It works and has done for the last 17 years

I don't think that was wired by a proper electrician, too much congestion in a 5A switch box. The neutrals and earths should've been terminated in a separate junction box in the ceiling void?

I think it was done by an electrician. It was done as part of a major development 17 years ago. He certainly needed the knowledge and skill to fill that box of wires to the brim. But, as you say, he could have made it easier for himself.

To conclude, I'm going to stick to my plan of replacing the dimmers with simple 2-gang, 2-way switches at the cost of just a couple of quid.
Brian

 

[Jake]

I don't think that was wired by a proper electrician, too much congestion in a 5A switch box. The neutrals and earths should've been terminated in a separate junction box in the ceiling void?

That's getting quite old fashioned these days, running N and E to the switches gives much more flexible control options. And there's no 'should' about it.

 

[Spectric]

Why do sparkies ram so many wires into a standard box like that?

You assume they were a qualified sparky and one that actually took pride in his work, sad to say that far to many are just doing the job thinking of the next one.

All the LED light strings should have been terminated in a JB, but it is now advisable to ensure you do have a neutral within a switch because of newer technology.

 

[trvlr]

If that installation is twin & earth, or even includes three core & earth, using a separate "box" in the ceiling void for the neutrals & earths not sure that would really be kosher...? How would you get the live(s) from the twin or three core & earth to the switches/dimmers. Not a problem if using single cores but for sheathed conductors? Single cores would "usually" be in conduit, or on occasion even trunking, and allow all manner of installation options.

And the box as shown I doubt there's enough space for Wago or similar connectors; so agree that a deeper box is really required (t)here...

Also is the current wiring (the actual conductors) single core or from twin/triple core + earth. Whichever There seems to be some odd colour coding going on as to what/which conductor is doing?

The installation as is does look a bit (perhaps a lot) like a botched job; be it DIY (and not all DIY do botched installations) or otherwise...

 

[GuitardoctorW7]

That's getting quite old fashioned these days, running N and E to the switches gives much more flexible control options. And there's no 'should' about it.

For 5A lighting switches? I can understand doing that for Double Pole switches, but apart from extractor fans what necessitates running the neutral back and forth? Old fashioned? that box was a mess

 

[Jake]

For 5A lighting switches? I can understand doing that for Double Pole switches, but apart from extractor fans what necessitates running the neutral back and forth? Old fashioned? that box was a mess

Nearly all smart switches need power themselves and so need a neutral. Even if they aren't installed, it's sensible future proofing.

Running only live and switched live up/down was a copper skimping measure not something otherwise technically desirable - and it really works best in a world with one loop-in-rose central ceiling lamp per room as the standard. Which is bygone.

The problem in this instance is the box is too shallow (and choc blocks aren't lovely), but there's a lot to be said for having all connections (including N&E) easily accessible either behind the switch plates or the light fittings rather than some of the connections being tucked away in harder to locate and access JBs above the ceiling.

 

[Spectric]

but apart from extractor fans what necessitates running the neutral back and forth?

Some wireless switches that are retrofit require a neutral. With a new install you can fit the receivers anywhere .

 

[Yojevol]

Job done, 2-way switches fitted in lieu of the dimmers and everything now hunkydory.
Now tackling the bathroom GU5.3's which entails chopping out the 11.4 V power supplies and changing the bulb holders to GU10's. Easy really, apart from working in the cramped, hot and dusty loft space.
Brian

 

[Spectric]

changing the bulb holders to GU10's

When fitting downlighters I would always use fire rated types to help prevent the spread of fire into voids and loft spaces.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Job done, 2-way switches fitted in lieu of the dimmers and everything now hunkydory.

Can we say you solved your lighting problem by a process of illumination?

 

[Yojevol]

Can we say you solved your lighting problem by a process of illumination?

Indeed you can