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gerard

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Hello

I am looking to buy a small woodworking lathe, and need some advise.

It is for making bagpipe chanters-drones, so doesn't need have a large working area approx 14inches max lenght, and must be able to bore a hole through the centre of a 10inch peice.

Any advice of what is available, and any reccomendations


Gerard
 
In order to bore a hole through a spindle, a lathe with an hollow tailstock is required, plus a shell auger of the suitable size. The most common size available is 8mm (5/16") diameter and around 900mm in length. The hole is usually bored to the centre, or just over centre, then the workpiece turned through 180 degrees and bored again. This prevents the possibility of damaging the auger by breaking through and striking the metal drive centre at the headstock end.

In conjunction with the auger, you'll need a hollow tail centre (sometimes called a ring nose centre), together with a counterbore centre to support the work (via the bored hole) when reversed.

Beware of getting a lathe which will only handle the chanters - you may find that you like turning and want to turn other things (this has happened once or twice before!), then you'll be a bit restricted. Bigger lathes can turn smaller items, the reverse does not apply. HTH :)

Ray.
 
I have a nagging feeling I've read one/some/many/all (delete as appropriate) makers use metalworking lathes. Ring any bells with anyone? :-k

Cheers, Alf
 
Thanks for the reply, but it will only be used for chanters,

I am a instrument maker profesionally and have linited space.

If metal working and good models.
 
Hi Gerrard,

Alf might be correct ref metal-working lathes.

Whichever though, the only advice I would give is get the biggest you have room for and the best you can afford.

Machine-Mart used to supply reasonable Continental made lathes, but as to quality and accuracy I can't comment. I would think for musical instruments, you need accuracy; certainly you do for guitars!

Hope this helps
John :)
 
Argee":pw1qeksm said:
Bigger lathes can turn smaller items, the reverse does not apply. HTH :)

Ray.

Unless you are making a ten foot standard lamp, and you can turn good male and female threads!
:wink:

Good advice Ray.
John :) :eek:ccasion5:
 
Alf":3dzf2ngh said:
I have a nagging feeling I've read one/some/many/all (delete as appropriate) makers use metalworking lathes. Ring any bells with anyone? :-k

Cheers, Alf

For a novice turner to make constant dimensionably repeatable designs a metal lathe would be easier with its traversable saddle, cross slide etc.
Wood lathes with this facility and a hollow tailstock are usually rather on the large size, and considerably more expensive on the new machine front.

Gerard, some indication of the budget you have for the project and space available for working in would help in giving pointers.

Also is this a long term commercial commitment or just an occasional hobby requirement?
 
I think what people are unaware of are patternmaker's lathes. These are designed specifically for woodworking with a rack and pinnion with handle drive for the sliding carraige and cross slide and they will work perfectly parallel or tapered pieces with ease. They also come with hollow headstocks and tailstocks as standard. Engineering vices tend to be set-up for screwthread cutting and the transmissions frequently include gearboxes - which don't go particularly well with wood dust. Makers of new patternmakers machines include Killinger, Centauro and Intorex although they are very expensive. Even Laguna in the USA have recently brought a model to market. Second-hand machines by many older British makers such as Wadkin, Fell and Oliver (the Manchester-based firm, not the financially-unrelated American concern) can still be found if you really look for them.

img0.jpg


Above: A larger Wadkin RS patternmaker's lathe from Lathes.co.uk site, smaller machines were made

Scrit
 

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