Larch

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gwr

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Hi I’m looking at Larch cladding and it says best fixed between sep and March and to pre drill
Before nailing to avoid splitting.

Would it be a major mistake to fix it April /May?
Does it have to be pre drilled for nailing, not that
It would be a major problem just more time consuming.
 
That'll be about direct sun causing the boards to dry too quickly and curl (and probably split too). I doubt you'll run into many issues with hot sun in Northumberland in May, but you might consider covering or shading those sides of the building exposed to the sun in order to slow down the rate of drying. One nail per board per batten, of course, and I have no idea about pre-drilling. If it looks like being an issue you'll very quickly find out, and drilling at least for the nails nearest the ends of the boards might then be sensible.
 
Pre drilling makes sense. I laid some larch flooring and it is most defiantly prone to splitting around holes. Might be more forgiving if it's only part dried though as cladding might be.
 
Thanks for replys, Mike there is no hot sun in july/Aug here so guess I can clad anytime lol . Time is not a massive issue so I guess err on the side of caution and drill it as you say Beau.

On a side note what timber do most use for cladding without spending a fortune? The reason I'm asking about larch is I can get it from a local sawmill for around £8 per M2 and it seems to be regarded as one of the relatively durable softwoods suitable for cladding, I won't be leaving whatever timber I decide on to weather to a silvery gray but rather painting it so I don't know if this makes a difference to my options on the timber I use. Any input is gratefully received thanks.
 
Never done any long term testes with it outside but all I have ever read and seen on the subject say larch is excellent. Used it for our doors and windows based on it's durability and no reason to question it so far but it's only 7 years in so on. Watching grand designs over the years and again larch is the go to wood. One of them was Japanese larch but not sure of the differing properties between that and native larch but pretty sure the Japanese variant is used in plantations over here so price may not very too much.
 
European larch is less durable than Siberian larch.

when cladding only use 1 row of fixing per board to minimise splitting
 
gwr":nand0st3 said:
.......what timber do most use for cladding without spending a fortune?........

For cladding a shed? I would suggest that far and away the most commonly used timber is treated softwood in the form of sawn feather edged boards. They do need a painted finish, though.
 
MikeG.":hqi3gwy7 said:
gwr":hqi3gwy7 said:
.......what timber do most use for cladding without spending a fortune?........

For cladding a shed? I would suggest that far and away the most commonly used timber is treated softwood in the form of sawn feather edged boards. They do need a painted finish, though.

You say that but had a great chat with a guy who does fence posts and treating of timber. The conversation was based around fence posts and all the problems with the currant treatments not working and posts rotting out in just a few years. His response was that much of the cheap treated wood is whitewoods like spruce which even when treated doesn't last long as posts. Larch and Douglas were what he recommended due their natural durability treated or otherwise.
 
Wot Robin said.

My grandfather used to sell a lot of genuine "Larch Lap" fencing panels, and held the view that's all it was good for (but it is good for that purpose). It is pretty resilient, but picks up algae fairly easily, and nowadays you can't officially re-creosote it yourself (at least until we've Brexited!). And, yes, it will split if it notices you staring too hard at it.

There's two reasons your local mill has it cheap. One is that it's what they process (presumably for fencing panels), and the other is that there's a lot of wastage they want to shift - knotty, or with shakes or useless, gnarly grain, etc.

I'd have a good rummage through their offcuts, to see what the overall rejection rate is likely to be.

Be pessimistic, and work out how much you'll have to over-order, to allow for both your own off-cuts and unusable stuff. Also, if you buy it treated (you might not be able to), what are you intending to do with the waste? It tends to spit quite a lot on the fire.

Might have missed this: are you intending shingles or horizontally running lapped boards? Well done shingles don't trap water as much, so probably don't rot as easily and let you get more out of knotty boards, but they are much more effort to fix (but easier for one man on his own). And, of course you need more overlap, so more material.

Drill, and use hot-dipped galvanized clouts (gently!), so you get the most durable fixings. The more it's able to move, the less trouble you'll have with splitting.

There are waney-edged clad buildings over in the Surrey-Sussex area that have lasted for decades, I think most of them will be pine or Douglas fir from local plantations (or possibly elm) as there's a lot of private and Forestry Commission land over there, but they were thoroughly pickled in creosote, or a tar/creosote/oil mixture, back in the days when you could (a) use creosote, and (b) had chaps around the place who could do the job annually, and (c) the trees were bigger (so the boards were better), and (d) they were outbuildings, not habitation, so nobody minded the smell (mostly).

Personally I love the smell of creosote, but it's an acquired, er, thing. Anyway, accept modern substitutes and be prepared for disappointment.

E.
 
Beau":3qe5qy22 said:
MikeG.":3qe5qy22 said:
gwr":3qe5qy22 said:
.......what timber do most use for cladding without spending a fortune?........

For cladding a shed? I would suggest that far and away the most commonly used timber is treated softwood in the form of sawn feather edged boards. They do need a painted finish, though.

You say that but had a great chat with a guy who does fence posts and treating of timber. The conversation was based around fence posts and all the problems with the currant treatments not working and posts rotting out in just a few years. His response was that much of the cheap treated wood is whitewoods like spruce which even when treated doesn't last long as posts. Larch and Douglas were what he recommended due their natural durability treated or otherwise.

Feather edged boards are a different kettle of fish to fence posts. They're redwood, exclusively, in my experience. Treated redwood is fine, and the modern micro-porous paints are a wonderful product. Combined and you'll have a very long lived material. Fence posts have that awkward always-damp junction between soil and air to contend with, and so the frailties of using less durable species of timber are soon exposed.

[Personal anecdote alert] I built my first garage in 1979, using treated F/E boards and Architectural Solignum microporous paint. 38 years later, it looks great. It looks as though it will last indefinitely. The current owners say they are planning on painting it next summer, 12 years after it was last painted. I suggested they use Bedec Barn Paint, which is my preference for any (exterior) sawn timber.
 
Daughter has just had extension (nearly) completed which has vertical Siberian larch cladding. Work on the cladding started in February, so it had all the Scottish sun (sic) on it for the whole summer. No sign of splitting or any problems and it was double nailed with a Paslode. But then, we didn't actually have a summer this year.
I did their shed in similar style, but with local larch and that definitely needed pre-drilling. Also some problems with it warping, but it was relatively fresh cut.
 
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