Lapping fluid

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Pabs

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could this actually work?

(Have tried it seems to work don't understand any kind of industrial chemistry just a basic medic)

on the 3m /float glass method
Such as this 17389730872747583063939850142089.jpg
 
That looks like a Workshop Heaven 3M + float glass package .... ?

From the look of your 3M papers I'd say that you might be pushing as well as pulling the blades over them. Perhaps also pressing too hard. The idea is to preserve the 3M "papers" by doing pull-only strokes lightly , to avoid tearing the "papers" and to let the grit do the blade metal removal without the need to press very hard. By the time you get to using those "papers" the bevel should already be well-formed and smooth-ish from more serious grinding to shape that bevel.

One also needs to clean the grey metal deposits off the "papers" more regularly. Yours look rather clagged-up. I clean mine after every use, with a spot of light oil or water, rubbed in with a finger tip then wiped off with a bit of clean rag. Cut-up old bed sheets are good.

By the time you get to perfecting the bevel & edge with those "papers" there should be very little metal left to remove before "sharp" is achieved, so each use should leave only a light grey deposit that easily lifts off with a bit of water or oil and a wipe. The "papers" aren't meant for any serious shaping that removes a lot of metal - although 3M do rougher papers (e.g. 100 grit) that have a much heavier plastic-like backing and can be used to shape bevels.

Water or a light oil can be used as the lubricant. It's purpose is to prevent fast wear of the "papers" and to keep the grey metal particles floating a bit, so the grit can get at the metal of the blade to remove a bit more as you drag it back. WD40 works quite well but best not to get that on your skin.
 
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There may be reasons for using all manner of stuff, but the importance of its preventing rust to me is hundred and first on a list of a hundred. I've used water stones for 40+ years and have never had a problem with rust.
 
Thanks Phil

Just noticed Axminster were selling this 'professional lapping fluid' which i think is some kind of glycol so I figure why not

@Eshmiel i'm sorry my papers weren't in perfect condition, they are at the end of their life cycle and I tend to run them into the ground at the end with any softer metals that need flattening.

I wouldn't use wd40 as a lapping lubricant as this seems to affect the cutting efficiency.
 

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