Laminate saw blade

[wcndave]

I am cutting 19mm laminate with a zero clearance insert, and getting worse results that with my general purpose blade.

They are both axcaliber blades and new.

On the top cut you can see laminate blade on left and general on right.

The bottom/underneath is better.

Here is general purpose

And here is laminate blade.

Putting tape on the top does not help in the slightest.

Any ideas?

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[owen]

Lower the blade??

 

[wcndave]

I have it one tooth above. Suo the gullet is at the height off the wood.

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[RogerBoyle]

The blade needs to be sharpened.

 

[Ghengis]

When cutting faced material like that i do it in 2 cuts, cut just over half way trhu, turn over and cut again.

 

[wcndave]

Well, it is a brand new blade...but could be it needs sharpening. The double sided cut is an idea although I'd worry they don't line up exactly. For cabinets I think they need to. Perhaps a very light scoring cut. Odd that it's better on the bottom. Could be the zero clearance is just that good. I noticed my festool brand new laminate blade does the same though... router is perfect so perhaps last cut with that, although I'd have to be super sure it's parallel to other side!

Thanks!

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[Ghengis]

Until i bought a track saw its how i cut all my panels for kitchen, doing it this way is the same principle as a scribing blade on a big industrial saw

 

[Phil Sewell]

Try running some mdf part way through and fixing somehow then running the work piece over the mdf, usually gives pretty good tear out results.

 

[RossJarvis]

I'd buy a proper decent blade myself. Possibly starting with Freud and upwards from there, Axminster isn't a quality product!!. Speed of cut etc can also make a difference as well as backing up with tape or clamping sacrificial wood to the surfaces. If the blade doesn't know it's cutting through a surface it won't **** it up.

 

[wcndave]

Until i bought a track saw its how i cut all my panels for kitchen, doing it this way is the same principle as a scribing blade on a big industrial saw

Although in that case you cut one side partially and then right through. There is no cutting from both sides.

In terms of quality, I thought the Axminster Trade series was supposed to be, ahem, a cut above the bog standard ranges...

I looked at cutting solutions, however their delivery charges were way too high...

I think I will just have to route the final edge where it's visible in end product for now. Two sided cutting not possible with the riving knife in place!

thanks again

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

I notice you are in Italy. Can you not get CMT there at a good price, they are made there after all. I cut laminate with CMT blades and close fitting throat plate with perfect chip free results. There is no substitute for a good quality blade in these instances.

If you go down the route of trimming with a router, expect to use a lot of bits, if you have much to cut. Chip board is abrasive and router bits have only 2 edges, saw blades have 60-80!

You could have a look at your tablesaw fence or sliding table set up. Heeling and toeing will not help with clean cuts, so parallelism is important.

Mike.

 

[wcndave]

Thanks. It all looks fine in terms of parallel fence and I get with new festool blade in track saw too.

I am only taking 1mm with router so not too heavy on blade.

I made a jig to get from the other side an exact dimension without having to measure it exactly. Seems to work well.

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[rdesign]

ok u have some answers but u definitely don't want to run with the blade barely up unless your going to run it backwards through your table saw?? because thats how a scoring blade works it cuts climb cutting so into the wood from the bottom and then your saw cuts in from the top. the blade must be pants if you are getting break out on the top of your piece that should never happen. i believe you want your saw blade higher than just the tip so its cutting down into the timber reducing the tear motion that happens when cuts along. i keep it 1 inch above the surface.

but a freud negative rake 72 tooth blade it will be the most forgiving on the underside and leave u with minimal break out.

they do cost about 100 bucks tho :/ quality blades r expensive. if your festool track saw is breaking out get it a new blade as that means its blunt! you should get perfect results with the track saw i always do. apart from the one time i damaged my plastic guide strip when cutting at and angle

my two pence. good luck
Richard

 

[Mar_mite]

I use those axi fine saw blades. Ok I've never cut laminate chipboard with it, but I have done lots of jobs with veneered boards with excellent results. For the money they are great. Maybe the OP has a duff blade with a bit of wobble in it?

 

[wcndave]

Hi Richard. I think I wrote somewhere that the festool blade was brand new.

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