Kity CK 26 - looking for the manuals & parts

[Chris JH]

I have just acquired a Kity CK 26 with the 636 planer/thicknesser (260 width), 617 table saw and 628 Spindle moulder.
I have the manual for the 636, but not for the CK26 combo or the 617 & 628 - does anyone have these manuals?
As I set the machines up I'm starting to address some issues:
I'm missing the fence and extractor collector for the 636 (see pic) - does anyone have any spares?

I've had experience with Kity machines since the 1980s - so this is a bit of a nostalgia trip - initial tests indicate this combo is a lot more capable than my original K5.

 

[clogs]

take a look in France.....plenty of parts there.......
a few members are over there......
lathes.co.uk is a good place to look for the manual.....
u'll prob be able to make something for the fence.....they are quite simple machines....

 

[Sideways]

The planer fence is as basic as it looks, just pressed out of some 2 or 3mm sheet steel and they often weren't flat. Make a better one out of aluminium extrusion.

If I was DIYing the planer dust chute I would make it out of 3mm aluminium composite panel or "Dibond".
That can be cut with router and circ saw.
Use a 90 degree V groove bit to rout through one alloy skin and fold. Look for videos of how to use the stuff. It is light, thin and stiff. Better than wood, easier than bending steel sheet.

 

[Chris JH]

take a look in France.....plenty of parts there.......
a few members are over there......
lathes.co.uk is a good place to look for the manual.....
u'll prob be able to make something for the fence.....they are quite simple machines....

I'll certainly check the French sites - good tip!

 

[Lons]

I don't have the manuals but this might be of some interest.

 

[Chris JH]

I'll certainly check the French sites - good tip!

Thank you for the tips.
I had a look at the French sites, "Leboncoin.fr" was the best and there is a lever on there that may be useful if I can't weld-repair the one for my machine. Lathes.co.uk - wow - what a resource! But I found no mention of Kity - even though I know there were Kity branded wood lathes.

 

[Chris JH]

I don't have the manuals but this might be of some interest.

Thank you for this its very useful. I've just printed it and can now read it. It helps me make sense of some of the brackets that came with my machine but without the attachments! Also all the technical specifications - including for belts. Do you know the date this was published?

 

[Lons]

Thank you for this its very useful. I've just printed it and can now read it. It helps me make sense of some of the brackets that came with my machine but without the attachments! Also all the technical specifications - including for belts. Do you know the date this was published?

November 1989 Chris.

the price lists/leaflets I have cover the whole Kity range available in the UK at that time including tooling but the rest won't help you really as they're not available now.
Kity UK were based in Shipley West Yorks (previously at Yeadon) which is where we ordered our machines and spares.

 

[Chris JH]

Hi Lons, Thank you for the wisdom you have already shared with me. I've run into a problem, which might have a simple answer that has so far eluded me. As I've assembled the 4 function CK26, the planer/thicknesser works fine and the spindle moulder looks ok too but I haven't put any timber through it yet.
The table saw is my problem because the way the belts run, the blade runs in reverse! I could just reverse the blade but then I would be feeding wood through the blade from a position over the table, rather than standing at the end of the unit, I'm pretty sure this isn't the answer.
I've looked for some switch to reverse the motor (single phase 2hp) but can't find one.
I attach a diagram of my set-up and wonder whether I am missing a key piece of the puzzle?
Kind Regards, Chris

 

[Lons]

TBH Chris I can't remember on the CK26, it's so long ago now, there are members who have these so I'm sure you'll get an answer.
Probably not applicable to yours but on the smaller machines you have to twist the belt but that's for the spindle moulder.

 

[Chris JH]

TBH Chris I can't remember on the CK26, it's so long ago now, there are members who have these so I'm sure you'll get an answer.
Probably not applicable to yours but on the smaller machines you have to twist the belt but that's for the spindle moulder.

Thanks Lons, let’s see whether the Uk workshop community can help.

 

[powertools]

You need to twist the belt 180 deg.

 

[Chris JH]

Thank you Powertools. I've just followed your advice and it seems its problem solved. It certainly turns the right way by hand - I haven't run the motor and put timber through it yet as it's still a bit early on a bank holiday morning!

 

[Chris JH]

Thanks Lons, let’s see whether the Uk workshop community can help.

You were right about twisting the belt - I just didn't see the room to do it with the belt guard design. But now I see that's the answer.

 

[GeordieRob]

Hi Chris. Sorry I can’t help with a manual.
I hope you don’t mind me jumping in on your thread.
I’ve got a the same machine with the 617 saw. Maybe you can tell me how to keep tension on the drive belt when the blade is lowered!
Short of moving the saw forward as the blade is lowered, and there isn’t a way to do that, I’m at a loss.
Thanks Rob.

 

[Chris JH]

Hi Rob,
My first thought is do you have the correct belt on the table saw? The belt on my CK26 is so tight that I struggle to get it on the table saw. Perhaps try a swap with the other belts?
I do notice that it is impossible to retract the saw to make a shallower cut than 5mm - perhaps a symptom of the tight belt? I ought to investigate …
I am very pleased with the CK26 - I’ve 2 K5s in the past and this is so much more powerful - but a big machine for my small ‘shop.
Good luck with finding a solution.
Kind Regards
Chris

 

[GeordieRob]

Hi Chris.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
I “think” I’ve found the solution!
When I assembled the saw on the base I fitted the belt when the blade was at its highest position, so of course the belt slackened and came off when the blade was lowered!
So, today I unbolted the saw and removed it from the table, hoping to find a solution.
When I noticed the slots on the bottom I thought the whole saw might have to slide forward as the blade was lowered, but there’s no real facility for that to be practical.
Then it dawned on my 72 year old brain.
Maybe if I slid the saw forward when the blade was at its “lowest” position and bolted it down with the belt tight, then when I raised the saw it would stay tight as it was raised!!
Like you said about your belt being so tight you struggle to get it on, me too now.
Tomorrow I’m going to experiment with moving the saw to the mid point and tightening the belt in that position. My concern is, it might put too much strain on the bearings and the motor.

I noticed the same, with the standard blade it’s not possible to lower it completely.
The solution I came up with is I’ll put a smaller blade on when I need shallow cuts.
The machine came with a comb joint jig, I’ll be able to try that out now!

Kind Regards
Rob

 

[GeordieRob]

Hi Chris.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
I “think” I’ve found the solution!
When I assembled the saw on the base I fitted the belt when the blade was at its highest position, so of course the belt slackened and came off when the blade was lowered!
So, today I unbolted the saw and removed it from the table, hoping to find a solution.
When I noticed the slots on the bottom I thought the whole saw might have to slide forward as the blade was lowered, but there’s no real facility for that to be practical.
Then it dawned on my 72 year old brain.
Maybe if I slid the saw forward when the blade was at its “lowest” position and bolted it down with the belt tight, then when I raised the saw it would stay tight as it was raised!!
Like you said about your belt being so tight you struggle to get it on, me too now.
Tomorrow I’m going to experiment with moving the saw to the mid point and tightening the belt in that position. My concern is, it might put too much strain on the bearings and the motor.

I noticed the same, with the standard blade it’s not possible to lower it completely.
The solution I came up with is I’ll put a smaller blade on when I need shallow cuts.
The machine came with a comb joint jig, I’ll be able to try that out now!

Kind Regards
Rob