Kity 636

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busy builder

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Just bought one and somewhere on this site is a copy of the manual, but I'll be buggered if I can find it again :?

Any ideas ? I've done a search already, perhaps I'm not looking in the right place.
TIA
 
Really? I don't recall ever seeing one and I've been on the lookout for a couple of years. But I do seem to recall someone (Steve Maskery, maybe?) saying that the manual for the 637 wasn't up to much.

There was an article in one of the mags a few years back on servicing/setting up a planer thicknesser. Although generic, it used the 636 as an example. I'll see if I can dig it out.

I once saw someone selling a photocopy of a 636 manual on Ebay for a tenner! It sold, too, though not to me!!

Dave
 
Dave, do you have this (or similar p/t) ?

I have had 5 minutes with this machine and cannot see how to raise/lower the thiknesser table. There ia a chain underneath connected to the 4 threaded posts and a cog but no way to turn the chain. I cannot see how a handle could be connected either.

any ideas welcome...

I bought the machine from someone who had been left it in a will and had no idea about p/t's, there is a light dusting of rust on the thicknessing table which leads me to think it hasn't been used :?
The machine has been well looked after with only slight rust marks here and there, but it has been left unused for a good few months in a garage, which may account for that.
 
I think the 636 has a splined handwheel that fits a splined shaft that sits in a hole in the side of the outfeed table. Its a loose handle that is removed when planing so may have been misplaced.

Toolmart sell reprints of manuals but they are not cheap and like most kity manuals not up to much.

http://www.toolmartuk.com/

Jason
 
At the infeed end of the thichnesser there should be a big black wheel facing you, poking fron the green steel cabinet; this drives a 90 deg gearbox, which has a cog for the chain on the output. Chain tension is adjusted by moving the whole wheel/g.box in and out after slackening 2 bolts just behind the wheel, under the front of the thicknesser table. Maybe yours is missing?
 
The cog is there, but no gearbox to speak of, there is a hole in the cabinet but no shaft or wheel. I'll have a look at making one.

Could someone post a picture of the side and underneath please ???

I got this machine pretty cheap as it won't get used that much so it'll do...as they say.
 
busy builder":wd665dww said:
Dave, do you have this (or similar p/t) ?
Yes I do. The winder mechanism is as others have described.

If it's not been used for a while it could probably do with a service - cleaning, lubrication and setting up. The article I mentioned covers this - when I find it I'll let you have details.

Dave
 
Busy.

Look at the top of the four posts. One should have a splined end at the top.

The special handwheel fits onto this and is only accessible when the outfeed table is raised.

The spline looks a bit like a Torx driver. If you can find a torx screw to fit, then this might just be the basis of a replacement handwheel.

The kity partnumber of the wheel (if still available) is 501774.

hth Bob
 
Bob
Are you sure you are describing the right model? I think the handwheel should be on the front, not the top, I think that is a different model.

BB
I'm on hols right now (so how sad is this?), but if you can wait a couple of weeks I can send you the (yes, inadequate) manual. Sounds like you have a bit missing.

Crap Italian keyboard.

Good Italian coffee though!:)
But small ice-cream cone 5 Euro, beer 8 Euro for half a litre (slightly less than a pint...)
:(

S
 
Steve,

I have a manual in front of me, inside the back page it shows the serial number plate marked 636 and the hand wheel is direct drive on one of the the threaded feedscrews. It is consistent with my P/T

We have already discovered differences between my machine and yours a few months back. Maybe this is another difference??

Bob
 
The 637 & 638 have the large handle at the front the 636 has the top one as I said earlier.

Jason
 
JasonB you are dead right, when I knew where to look it was there staring me in the face all the time :shock:
There is a small 8mm bolt (for want of a better term) that an 8mm spanner fits under the table. I'll not bother with a proper handle I'll just use a ratchet and 8mm socket.
Everything works a dream now, just to give it all a clean and light oiling and we're in business.....not bad for £112 :D

Thanks very much for all of your help. Andrew
 
I missed the start of this tread. Someone asked me for a Kity 636 manual the other day.

If you pm me I'll send a PDF .

It doesn't tell you much that you can't work out for yourself and it seems that you may have some bits missing.
 
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I’ve had one of these for about 15 years and it’s a good but basic machine – it suits my needs, but don’t expect precision from it. You need to pay a lot more to get that.

Details of the table mechanics are missing from the manual, but to describe the table rise and fall:

The thicknesser table rises and falls on four threaded rods, one in each corner connected to the lower table.
These rods each have a star cog under the table base that are driven by a timing chain that runs around each one in turn.
When the chain is in position on the rods, a right angled gear transfer drives the chain, connected to the handle below the in-feed table. (That’s been mentioned before in another post above and it sounds like its missing on yours, perhaps). You definitely need the gear transfer, though you may turn the spindle by any other method if it is missing.
The drive rods are set at the factory to provide a parallel and square rise and fall to the table – DON’T ADJUST ANY OF THESE INDEPENDENTLY OF THE OTHERS without the chain in place; it will affect the parallel of the cut board.
In the centre of each star cog is a nylon-bushed nut and washer. It secures the cog and provides thrust and tension to the rod. Over tightening will seize it so that it cannot move, under-tightening or loosening may give chatter in the rise and fall.
It’s a dead simple arrangement, but a real bugger to set up if the rods go out of alignment.

Hope this helps


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