Kity 1637 Planer/ Thicknesser stripdown.

[Bradley]

While I think about it, the springs are unlikely to have lost too much of their mojo, they aren't working too hard. The important thing is that they are all evenly springy as it were. If you are in any doubt then a good way to check is to pick one spring as a reference. Now place it end to end with one of the others and put them in a vice. Compress the pair gently and hopefully both will compress equally. Repeat this with each in turn. If any compress noticeably more than the reference one then you will have to replace the set in all probability. Your chances of finding an individual replacement that is the same as the others is pretty slim.

Hi, thanks for your posts. The rollers can't be adjusted I don't think as the bottom position is set in the casting. They then have approx 10mm movement up looking at the photos attached. This resistance of this movement is what can be adjusted via the springs. I'll be in a position to try the machine out soon and I'll keep monitoring it for differences in the finish and adjust accordingly.

Thanks, Rob.

 

[Bradley]

Hi, next and hopefully last question. Cleaning up the tables and the best practice to do so. I have read that an orbital sander can be used with grit grades P80, P180, P400 and finally P1200, then a metal polish before waxing (I have Liberian Lubricating Wax). I also have some 3M Scotchbrite pads (Grey and Red/ Burgundy) rated very and ultra fine, should these be used in the process as well or instead of some of the steps with the orbital?

Thanks, Rob.

 

[Chippymint]

Hi, next and hopefully last question. Cleaning up the tables and the best practice to do so. I have read that an orbital sander can be used with grit grades P80, P180, P400 and finally P1200, then a metal polish before waxing (I have Liberian Lubricating Wax). I also have some 3M Scotchbrite pads (Grey and Red/ Burgundy) rated very and ultra fine, should these be used in the process as well or instead of some of the steps with the orbital?

Thanks, Rob.

Clean up most with rotary brass brush then use wd40 with very fine emery to finish off. I use Garryflex Abrasive cleaning blocks for all my machines and tools. They are great and handy to clean up surface rust and contaminants - use them with wd40 and you will have a factory finish. Nothing wrong with the Liberon wax you have.

 

[Bradley]

Clean up most with rotary brass brush then use wd40 with very fine emery to finish off. I use Garryflex Abrasive cleaning blocks for all my machines and tools. They are great and handy to clean up surface rust and contaminants - use them with wd40 and you will have a factory finish. Nothing wrong with the Liberon wax you have.

Hi, so all my machines have a dark grey colour to the tables and you can see the marks in them from when they were made. How far do I sand these down before you'd be happy with them? Back to the bare Aluminium?

Thanks, Rob.

 

[Bradley]

Can anyone help? I really want to crack on and get this done tomorrow so help is really appreciated. Is the grey colour just aluminium oxidation or do I need to get through this level to clean metal? The last picture is a table that I've started but stopped while I get advice. I've used 120 grit on a sander and used wd40 as a lubricant. I've gone up and down equally, approx 5 mins max with no pressure applied to the sander. You can still see the casting marks in the table.

Thanks, Rob.

 

[Chippymint]

Can anyone help? I really want to crack on and get this done tomorrow so help is really appreciated. Is the grey colour just aluminium oxidation or do I need to get through this level to clean metal? The last picture is a table that I've started but stopped while I get advice. I've used 120 grit on a sander and used wd40 as a lubricant. I've gone up and down equally, approx 5 mins max with no pressure applied to the sander. You can still see the casting marks in the table.

Thanks, Rob.

Sorry, what I told you earlier relates to cast iron. The Alloy surface plates picture on the right looks fine so no need to go any further. A coat of wax should suffice to finish off.

 

[Fergie 307]

Hi, thanks for your posts. The rollers can't be adjusted I don't think as the bottom position is set in the casting. They then have approx 10mm movement up looking at the photos attached. This resistance of this movement is what can be adjusted via the springs. I'll be in a position to try the machine out soon and I'll keep monitoring it for differences in the finish and adjust accordingly.

Thanks, Rob.

What I meant is you need to make sure that the rollers are parallel with the table, both upper and lower. Worth checking as will cause issues of they are out. As for the surface as long as they are flat and you remove any high spots around any dings in the surface then just finish with wax.

 

[rishstig]

Hi, this is my 1st post so be gentle. I'm just starting out with woodworking and I've bought a Kity 1637 planer that needs a little work to bring it up to scratch. I want to strip it back to give it a good clean and lubrication and to clean up the cutter block that has been left to go a bit rusty while it's been sat unused. I'm after any helpful advice from anyone who may have undertaken something similar and if there is anything specific to this machine that I should look out for. Do they need to come apart in any particular order?

Any help would be greatfully received.

Thanks, Rob.

Hi Rob, I just put up my newbie post. Happy to help you if I can as I have embarked on dismantling my Kitty 1637 so as to remove the parts I need to renew/exchange/repair for the restoration of my machine.