Kitchen Worktop joints

[Lazurus]

Ok I am roped in to fitting a mates new kitchen, don't have a problem with any of it except never used a router template and fixing to join the work tops. Any advice welcome, also a supplier of a cheap (only be used for this =D> ) router template.

Cheers

Stuart

 

[Phil Pascoe]

For a one off job you could probably hire one.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Silverline used to do one for about 30 quid. I don't know if they still do. The Trend on is excellent but costs a fortune. If you've got mine I'd like it back, please.
You only get one shot at the job and it's not at all obvious exactly what you have to do. I would get a kitchen fitter, someone who does this every week, and pay him to do it. I'm having a new kitchen myself in a few months and that is what I am going to do.

 

[Beau]

Steve you surprise me. You have the confidence to do instructional videos on how to use machinery but you wont fit your own kitchen worktop!

Back on topic yes hire one or you may find the hire shops sell basic ones, ours used to and I still have one. It's perfectly good for occasional use and cost £15 but this was some years ago.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Steve you surprise me. You have the confidence to do instructional videos on how to use machinery but you wont fit your own kitchen worktop!

It's because I've done it before that I'm getting someone else to do it!

And the reason my videos are so fantastically excellent is because on them I know what I'm doing...

 

[Beau]

Steve you surprise me. You have the confidence to do instructional videos on how to use machinery but you wont fit your own kitchen worktop!

It's because I've done it before that I'm getting someone else to do it!

And the reason my videos are so fantastically excellent is because on them I know what I'm doing...

I guess we are all different

To me a large part of woodworking is about solving problems and understanding how everything works. Setting up a PT, using a jig or designing and making one to do a particular job is all part of the job.

I will take your word for it on your videos

 

[Chippyjoe]

Hi,

Jewsons in Cringleford Norwich will hire you one out. Just make sure if it is a Howdens kitchen the jig has the capacity for a 616mm worktop as all theirs are, unlike everybody else who use a 600mm worktop.

When you glue and bolt the worktops for the first time it can be stressful, so make sure you have everything to hand. It is also helpful to have two of you when doing this, one underneath with the spanner and one on top "adjusting" the joint.
Another good tip, when your mate gets the worktops lay them flat until ready for the install. The reason I say this is I done some a couple of weeks ago and the worktops had been stored on their side and curled which meant they were a right PIA to get right.

Envy you living on the broads, fitted a new houseboat out in Brundall last year including a new kitchen, and it was a refreshing change to the norm working on water.
Good luck with the worktops.

Cheers,

Mark.

 

[Lazurus]

That's great, many thanks. Yes there are a couple of guys as well as myself so should be good to go. Yes love the Broads, just waiting for the better weather =D>

 

[Beau]

Doesn't hurt chucking in a few biscuits to keep everything aligned.

 

[stuartpaul]

Last time I fitted a laminate worktop I hired the jig, - not a huge expense. If you’ve not used one before try and have a practice, particularly if the worktops are out of square.

Be aware though that you will probably need a longer straight cutter for your router. You can hire one with the jig but in my experience they charge a small fortune for ‘wear’, - far more than a couple of cheapies cost to get the job done.

 

[gwr]

The first worktop I cut with a router and jig was daunting I've done many since then and it's really not that bad to do. As has been said if it's a howdens top make sure the jig has 616 peg holes, how dens also sell a cheapish jig or they did.

Just take your time setting the jig and remember always make sure the cutter is spinning into the good edge of the worktop and out of the waste piece. I used to take about 10mm per pass and for the final pass full plunge especially if it was the upside down cut so it was an unused part of cutter.

Hope that makes sense and good luck

 

[mr edd]

What sort of worktop set up is it? a straight forward 90 degree join with no walls terminating the far ends of the of each work top from the joint will be a lot easier than for example an L shaped worktop that terminates in a wall at each end on a bowed out of square wall.

In the first case scenario simply leave everything over length until you have the joint perfect then cut the ends to a suitable overhang .

If like in the second case you need to cut everything to the correct length to come within the terminating walls, when you route the 90 degree joint watch out for any scribing of the worktop to the wall affecting the length of cut with the worktop jig and thus the length of the second piece of worktop and thus ruining the even projection of the worktop over the base units. A tile back splash grant you a certain amount of tolerance but i had to fit a work top in this situation where the client wanted to use coloured acrylic back splashes which only gave me a tolerance of 4mm plus an ickle bit but a clear mastic joint on walls with the shape of a warped canoe #-o

I use a domino machine to install festools version of work top bolts now but a router cutter for biscuits will make alignment much easier with the regular worktop bolts underneath.

As a previous poster said get everything ready before hand as that solvent based jointing compound goes off quite quick if your not familiar with the operation.

Probably seems like stating the obvious but remember to orientate the cut direction of your router i the jig so the bit always cuts into the worktop to avoid spelch, again i use festool kitchen jig which has a slightly different operation so i guess i am saying get to know your jig etc in practise before you take the plunge #-o gets coat and heads for door with the sign 'exit for unnecessary punnery!'

I fit several kitchens a year and have come close to forgetting something once or twice but thankfully have remembered before i routed ahead.

hope this is not too confusing and helps but if you have made one practise cut with a kitchen jig you will probably get the jist of what i mean .

 

[dexter]

Hi Stuart
Back in 2005 a member of the site called Argee posted a how to guide on using a worktop jig that can be viewed as a web page, easy to follow instructions with some useful tips.
Unfortunately, my computer skills are somewhat from the stone age and I don't know how to create a link to his post but if you do a member search for him and put worktop jig in the search bar on his posts you can easily find it. It's dated 06 June 2005.
Hope it can be of some help.

Dex

 

[Lazurus]

Found it thank you.......... will have a peruse.

 

[CHJ]

Not notice if it has already been mentioned, but if it is a corner joint make sure the walls are at right angles or make sure you compensate for out of square if they are not.
Very frustrating to make a perfect 90 deg. joint to find there is a big gap at the back of the worktops.