Kitchen revamp
- Thread starter Mjward
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You can get a nice looking finish with a brush but it all depends what sort of finish you are looking for, glass smooth like a car or a more traditional wood finish which is what I prefer, but if brush painting then get really decent brushes and not so called the finest from your local shed outlet. I use Picaso and Wooster which give a good finish and also the angled type which are great for getting a nice corner.
Wooster Buy Paint Brushes Online | Picasso | Purdy | Wooster | Axus | Rembrandt
Picaso https://decoratingsupplies.org.uk/s...aint-brushes?sortOption=descend_by_created_at
and if you want a good 3 inch laying off brush then try this, a nice brush that delivers a good finish Buy Staalmmester Brushes | Staalmeester One | Staalmeester UK
Wooster Buy Paint Brushes Online | Picasso | Purdy | Wooster | Axus | Rembrandt
Picaso https://decoratingsupplies.org.uk/s...aint-brushes?sortOption=descend_by_created_at
and if you want a good 3 inch laying off brush then try this, a nice brush that delivers a good finish Buy Staalmmester Brushes | Staalmeester One | Staalmeester UK
Has a "1-5" selector with max pressure listed as 110bar.
I think likely a tip/thinning issue. The kit came with 2 tips (517 & 311). I believe the 311 was best for oil based paints but when I put through it clogged up instantly. I then diluted the paint 10-20% yet still clogged. So switched to the 517 tip and it came out but clearly far too much.
I've got a lot of bedroom/living room cabinets/wardrobes to build and paint later this year so definitely would like to get it right
110bar is very high, hence the amount of bounce back, most HVLP sprayers work at 10psi or under hence they are much more controllable with far less overspray and bounce back, even the compressor brigade of sprayers have tried (unsuccessfully) to convert to HVLP, most commercial sprayers have also converted, in fact its law in some parts of the US due to less contamination, I would look for a good second hand Fuji or similar, sell the airless sprayer to someone who wants to paint fence's. 
Have a look here: HVLP Sprayers investigation and review
Have a look here: HVLP Sprayers investigation and review
That's over 1600 Psi, seems a lot for spraying,
Essentially Wagner recommend starting the pressure gauge on the 2 setting and increasing until the spray is no longer stripey. They also recommend 5-10% dilution. I found for both water and oil based, that even with 10% dilution it was needing pressure set to 5 for a uniform pattern. Knowing now what you mention above clearly the trade off here was far too much bounce back (and far too much paint). I am guessing then that machines like this are simply best used for fences and quick mist coats etc and not for a final finish (despite what their marketing videos show).
Would this model be better for cabinet work? HVLP and max pressure 0.15bar i.e. 2 psi
https://www.diy.com/departments/wagner-w-575-630w-corded-hvlp-paint-sprayer-12v/4004025097461_BQ.prd
Would this model be better for cabinet work? HVLP and max pressure 0.15bar i.e. 2 psi
https://www.diy.com/departments/wagner-w-575-630w-corded-hvlp-paint-sprayer-12v/4004025097461_BQ.prd
Short answer NO that also is only good for outside furniture and fence work.
Have you read this: HVLP Sprayers investigation and review
Have you read this: HVLP Sprayers investigation and review
Sadly it is a case of you get what you pay for and I certainly can't get anywhere near the cost of the Fuji given I've only recently paid out 600 for the Wagner and second hand they fetch peanuts.
My options are 1) find the settings combo that gets the 350R to do the job (ie paint viscosity, tip, pressure levels) as I can't fathom Wagner are marketing a product that is impossible to achieve their claims 2) find a cheap and lower pressure alternative to reduce the bounce back 3) give up and return to brush and roller
My options are 1) find the settings combo that gets the 350R to do the job (ie paint viscosity, tip, pressure levels) as I can't fathom Wagner are marketing a product that is impossible to achieve their claims 2) find a cheap and lower pressure alternative to reduce the bounce back 3) give up and return to brush and roller
Would it be worth a call the Wagner technical. They might be able to help with the tip, pressure, viscosity issues.
I tried that before and don't know whether the person was having an off day or they toe a party line to protect themselves but aside from the generic guidance they already publish, I was repeatedly told to check with the paint manufacturer (bizarrely). Anyway, went to Dulux and they were fairly helpful re tip guidance i.e. suggest would have been better off with a less build and less coverage tip for woodwork but that just took me back to what I kind of knew i.e. the 311 tip would have been much more suited for the job than the 517 but I simply couldn't get paint out of it. This was using the appropriate (smaller/red) filter too but maybe more trial and error simply needed i.e. knowing that the 517 tip is just simply a no-no for woodwork, I need to find a way to make the 311 work (maybe use the large filter, maybe much more paint thinning and be prepared for more but thinner coats etc).
Will have a go at that at some stage but failing that will give up investing more in the technology as it seems I don't have the pockets for the really good gear.
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