Kitchen Cabinets

[stimpy]

I'm with your missus - not literally!! hehe - one on the left just has a wee bit more interest

 

[doctor Bob]

Personnally my favourite profile is a shaker door with a chamfer on the top and bottom rail. Less of a dirt trap and pretty timeless in kitchens.

 

[sammy.se]

Personnally my favourite profile is a shaker door with a chamfer on the top and bottom rail. Less of a dirt trap and pretty timeless in kitchens.

Is the whole rail chamfered, or stopped? I don't suppose you have a picture do you?

 

[doctor Bob]

The whole rail.

 

[monster]

I'm with your missus - not literally!! hehe - one on the left just has a wee bit more interest

 

[monster]

Personnally my favourite profile is a shaker door with a chamfer on the top and bottom rail. Less of a dirt trap and pretty timeless in kitchens.

Yes that was my arguments against the more detailed one - harder to keep clean and more vulnerable to damage. Your cabinets look really smart and well modelled by the dogs!

 

[Jar944]

Thanks Stimpy. Sammy those doors look smart and the hinge pins look good where you have paced them - unless you could get them to line up perfectly with the bead - its probably best to leave the frame alone or else it may look a bit awkward.

Jar - thats professional kit you have there! - Ive been playing with a similar profile on my little router table lol - its the one on the left in my mockup image and is the one I've decided (or the wife has) to use for my doors too.

I personally prefer a more ornate and deeper profile like you (or your wife ) chose for cabinet doors. The bead and cove is my go-to.

 

[monster]

So got the end panels made and fitted. I made them to the size of the aperture and then skimmed them with the track saw and finished off by hand with plane and left a 1mm gap all around. Onto the doors now.

 

[monster]

Timber machined up for a batch of doors.

 

[monster]

So I’ve made all the doors and drawer fronts. Fitted some off the doors so far, used Simonswerk brass butt hinges which I’m impressed with. I played around a bit a decided to let them into the doors only. I made a simple jig up to enable me to accurately rout the door stiles.

I’ve also made up some doorstops out of 15mm oak dowel with a hole drilled eccentrically so that I can rotate it to position it perfectly. Fitted one top and one bottom per door. hinges.

 

[doctor Bob]

Why the stops?
Are you not using mag catch of some sort, I think you will find it super annoying if you don't.
Sorry but not a fan of them, design wise.
Use a top notch mag catch or put a hidden mag catch in the frame and door.

I'm impressed with the rest, I hope my opinion of the stops is taken the right way and ignored completely if the design pleases you.

 

[monster]

Hi Bob, I'm going to use magnets let into the frame and the door, so I will need a hard stop for the door to register against. I came across the method on one of Oliver's from Bradshaw Joinery Youtube clips whilst searching for something a bit slicker than the normal catches - I think he posts on here - so a big thanks to him for the idea (he's done some great videos where he explains things really well - a talented chap.)

Here is the video with him explaining it - if you scroll to the end and watch the closing action in a finished cabinet he's made, its impressive.

 

[doctor Bob]

I used to do similar. Same magnets, one dilled into frame one in door, very slightly off set.
As a commercial enterprise I realised it was costing me a fortune in labour.
I now use a really slick mag catch which looks great, costs a lot, but saves a lot of labour.

It's your kitchen, not mine. Your opinion counts not mine.

 

[Jonathan S]

A bit of both here, Hafele mag on Beach stops......and another De Nimes kitchen.....

 

[doctor Bob]

I use these, with our name on them

 

[monster]

I used to do similar. Same magnets, one dilled into frame one in door, very slightly off set.
As a commercial enterprise I realised it was costing me a fortune in labour.
I now use a really slick mag catch which looks great, costs a lot, but saves a lot of labour.

It's your kitchen, not mine. Your opinion counts not mine.

Yes I can imagine its time consuming in your position when operating commercially and you have to look at the economics of all you do - you'd be horrified if you knew how long it takes me to do each part of this build lol!. Its just a one off for me though so I don't mind a bit of extra time.

When you used to do similar, what did you used to stop the door against?

 

[monster]

They look nice Bob, do they make much noise when the door closes agains them?

 

[doctor Bob]

Vertually nothing if you get them with a leather pad on the plate.

 

[Jonathan S]

Bob, what kg pull do you use? the Hafele one's I've been using are 6 kg and I could do with less pull.

 

[doctor Bob]

Bob, what kg pull do you use? the Hafele one's I've been using are 6 kg and I could do with less pull.

2kg or 5kg or 8kg, I mainly use 2kg
Jon I stopped using the Hafele ones you posted up due to too many shattered magnets within a year of installation.
These one's are bulletproof and in my opinion "classier".