K10 chuck is stuck

[caretaker]

Hi all,
I have just got my K10 chuck and have put it on the lathe and done a bit of turning, but can not get it off the lathe.
I have got a tool that takes off oil filters from the car, oh I forgot to menshion, the indexing has stopped working, so can not lock the lathe.

 

[jaymar]

Find a bar(Or C spanner) to fit the chuck-key hole put the bar in and give it a sharp rap with a hammer( In the direction to loosen).That will usually release a stuck chuck

 

[Mark Hancock]

In future use a leather/fibre washer to prevent this happening. I just make up leather washers from old work boots - double sided tape to hold on a scrap disc of wood on the lathe and cut with a skew.

 

[timj]

Hi Reg, i had this problem with my super precisions chuck on my 1442 lathe. Sounds to me you have done the same thing as me and sheared the lugs off one the vairable pulleys, had to buy a new pulley+ shaft and bearings from Axminster. What lathe have you got ?

tim.

 

[jpt]

HI

To remove a stuck chuck the best way is to get a strong iron bar or spanner etc and clamp it in the jaws like this

According to the engineer who showed me this way this is the best way to put leverage on a chuck without damaging it.

Now you can hopefully stop the spindle turning with a spanner or bar and remove the chuck

john

EDIT: Thanks Chas have worked out what the problem was. When you copy the URL they give you it includes ?action=view&current= so that it displays in their slide show window which of course wont work when trying to include it in a post.

Took me long enough to work it out though it must be either age or the meds.

 

[caretaker]

How did I get on.
I managed to get the chuck off with a steel bar on the chuck and the tool that grips oil filters on the pulleys.
And hay presto off it came.
I will make up some washers for next time.
Now to find my old shoe's.
This forum is so good for all my mistakes that I make, you are all so helpfull.
Thanks to everyone.
If I ever meet up with you at a show I will bye you a coffee/tea.
Thanks all.
Tim, the lathe is called faithful but I was told it go's under other names.

 

[davol]

Hi Reg.
I would beware of Mark's leather washer idea, a chuck needs to screw up to a positive reference. Any flex or play induced by a soft washer could well be reflected in your finished turning.

Dave C (davol)

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Reg.
I would beware of Mark's leather washer idea, a chuck needs to screw up to a positive reference. Any flex or play induced by a soft washer could well be reflected in your finished turning.

Dave C (davol)

I'd recommend using paper instead of leather (for the reasons that Davol has mentioned above)... great way to make use of junk mail :wink:

 

[caretaker]

This washer idea is getting tricky.
What do others use or is it just the lathe that I am using that is tricky.
What is happening is, I screw the chuck on to the spindle and when it gets to the end it stopes and lockes up on the end of the thread, at the end is a small gap then the lathe casting.
If I put a washer on, it will rub on the said casting (I think).
Dose that make sense or not.

 

[Anonymous]

What do others use or is it just the lathe that I am using that is tricky.

It's a common problem

What is happening is, I screw the chuck on to the spindle and when it gets to the end it stopes and lockes up on the end of the thread, at the end is a small gap then the lathe casting.

a pic would be helpful here

The washer isn't necessary... you've already discovered how to free the chuck when needed :wink:

 

[CHJ]

...
What is happening is, I screw the chuck on to the spindle and when it gets to the end it stopes and lockes up on the end of the thread, at the end is a small gap then the lathe casting.
...

The chuck should turn fairly easily on the spindle thread, even some slop is not a problem.

It should then pick up its location on the plain portion of the spindle behind the thread to align it concentrically with the spindle.

It finally should come into contact with the rear shoulder of the spindle nose to complete the alignment and ensure that the chuck face is at right angles to the spindle centre line.

It is this rear face joint that can tighten up with enough friction to prevent easy removal. Thin washers used in this position aid removal by reducing the metal to metal friction.

If your chuck is binding elsewhere on the spindle nose, the parallel shoulder or thread portion for instance before binding on the rear shoulder then this problem needs sorting before anything else.

 

[TEP]

Most turners come across this problem at some time or another.

My answer was to use a piece of plastic from a milk carton as a washer. Never had a chuck grab on me since.

 

[CHJ]

caretaker, I note you have a 'Nutool B-37' lathe, not a very common one it seems, are you sure that the chuck adaptor is machined to suit that particular machine spindle nose, there are several variations of fit dimensions and not just the thread size.

The length of the locating collar and threaded portion may be longer than your adaptor length, If so the fitting of a quality washer between the spindle nose and the chuck may fix the problem as long as you ensure that there is 4-5mm minimum of chuck adaptor located on the plain spindle portion.

 

[caretaker]

some pictures, if it helps.





I can see a small shoulder and will try the milk bottle washer washer.
I did not see the shoulder before.

 

[CHJ]

Reg, that does seem an awfully long section of thread for that chuck, I suspect the internals of the chuck are coming up against the spindle end before it seats on the centralizing collar, if your washer is not enough to cure it then you either need an adaptor washer on the rear of the threaded portion to locate on the spindle collar and reduce the exposed thread length or you need to reduce the spindle nose thread length by a thread or two on the end.

I keep a copy of the Axminster catalogue standard lathe nose thread dimensions on my site for quick reference, if you don't have a catalogue copy to hand PM me for a link.

You can check if yours meets one of the 'normal' fits.

 

[Paul.J]

Is the chuck going over the nut shown.
My chuck goes upto the nut,and i use this with an adjustable spanner and a bar fitted in the chuck to release it.
Paul.J.

 

[caretaker]

Hi Paul,
I am leaving the nut off as it is large and takes up half the thread length.

 

[CHJ]

Reg, a thread length equal to the diameter is more than adequate to hold the chuck, it will have a proof stress of some 30,000 lbs+.

The important thing if using the nut as a spacer is that the chuck runs true without a locating sleeve, it will be relying on the chuck threads aligning concentrically true on the thread taper and may move slightly out of true if you get a catch.

 

[jaymar]

The nut is meant to help. Do not run the nut up to the shoulder of the lathe, leave say 1/2 a turn, run the chuck up to the nut and tighten the nut to the chuck. To remove the chuck unscrew the nut away from the chuck, no sticking at all. re the indexing, if you look at the pulley you should see a grub screw. Loosen the grub screw and move the pulley nearer on the shaft to the headstock, thus allowing the spring loaded bit to engage. (I had this lathe, can you tell) By the way the nut will also remove the four prong drive also by unscrewing it untill it pushes the drive off

 

[TEP]

I started off with the "Clarke" version of your lathe. The nut on mine was a lot thinner in cross section than the one shown in your photos. It may be possible to get a slimmer nut, or even getting a spare nut and cutting it down to see if it helps.