jointer set-up advice

[kityuser]

help please!!!!!!


I was lucky enough to be able to buy myself a 2hp thicknesser-planer over the christmas period .

I have managed to setup the thicknesser (run two 1inch battens through at the extreams of the thicknesser bed and check the final thickness of each batten is the same).

BUT the jointer is a completely different kettle of fish!.

I have no idea! some advice would be very much appreciated!

I have heard some whisperings about turning the cutter block until a knife is at the top, then placing a batten on the blade and rotating it->seeing how far the batten is pulled forward until its pulled further no more, marking the batten then doing the same on the other side of the cutter block. But I would like more info on this (not sure I properly understand)


thakx UKW!!

 

[sawdustalley]

Hey, nice to see you on here again - long time no post.

It might be helpful if you were to post the make and model of the machine, that way any other owners may be able to give you some useful advice.

 

[Alf]

Try this, Steven:

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/hints.asp?Id=61

Cheers, Alf

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Steven

You could also look here http://www.herts.ac.uk/lis/ltdu/projects/mm2/planer/oper9set.htm

Use the right and left arrows at the top of the screen to move around.

Cheers
Neil

 

[kityuser]

hum, make.... unknown, I may try to post some pictures soon, i know its CE marked, thats about it (and that its got a 20Amp box on the side).

I`m not asking about advice on the blade setting (although i may need that at some point), I`m asking about advice on the in-feed table adjustment.

presumably there is a standard set-up proceduce to follow???

 

[Dewy]

I bought a jointer from B&Q (made by Nutool) & badged Performance Power or Performance Pro
I was trying it out to learn the best way to get wood straight but kept getting Snipe at the end.
I read & re-read the instruction booklet & checked the blades against the outfield side.
They weren't at the same height.
I therefore adjusted the blade height (with my 6" flexible steel rule) until both ends of the blade were exactly inline with the table.
Problem solved.
Now all passes are straight & the jointer does the job it was designed to do.

 

[Dewy]

B&Q dont sell replacement blades for their jointer.
I sent an email to Nutool last night & had a reply this morning.
Replacement blades are availible direct from Nutool for £9.95.
Nice to find this out as I made the mistake of passing some old teak table legs over it to square them up & lost 2" of blade.
I have had to set the fence 2" out ever since.
A Tormek would solve the problem but money is too tight right now so I'm stuck with needing replacement blades.

 

[Alf]

Dewy,

Aren't the NuTool blades resharpenable? Not that having a spare set isn't a bad idea; one on, one at the saw doc (oh 'eck, not more saw doctor talk. Sorry ) Or does "lost" mean something much worse? In which case I'd be doubtful about the wisdom of getting any more of NuTool's blades...

Cheers, Alf

 

[Dewy]

Yes Alf, of course they are resharpenable but I havent got the kit to sharpen them correctly. That's why I mentioned the Tormek which has a jig to sharpen them staight. I would be unable to achieve that at the moment.

 

[Alf]

Not necessarily an "of course"; there are such things as disposable planer blades. But in your case a saw doctor is called for. Taking planer blades to a professional to sharpen is generally the best way; you don't want them out of balance for a start... :shock: And you're looking at a lot of re-sharpening before you hit the price of the Tormek jig.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Dewy]

You're preaching to the converted here Alf.
I have been a tool maker all my working life & always sharpened or made my own tools. Unfortunately, disability prevents me working but I love spending a little time making small furniture projects out of wood. The largest being my computer desk that has already taken 2 years & still needs a desktop made. An accident during a diabetic hypo in September left me with 2 broken & dislocated shoulders. After 5 operations I have 80% of the use of my left arm back but the right shoulder had little improvement & may need a shoulder replacement to get more than the 10% movement that I have now.
I may be unable to actually do anything in the workshop (garage) but am able to work on designs for the improvements I wanted to do to make the workshop easier to use & increase safety. Hopefully, by the summer I will be able to put my 40 years experience with tools to good use sharpening the blades myself.

 

[Alf]

Oh well, in that case I get it. Don't trust the trogs eh? Join the club :?

5 operations is easily 5 operations too many; commiserations. I didn't even know they did replacement shoulders, but certainly worth it if you have such little movement at the moment. Yikes. The bionic woodworker... :shock:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Dewy]

Yes Alf. My left shoulder was replaced with stainless steel but the other needed a pin that should have been removed after 4 weeks. This was done by a specialist in shoulders 1 hundred miles away.
Typical NHS. My local hospital had me in 2 months after it was due to be removed for an 'easy' operation but the pin was too deeply embedded with bone growing over it to be removed without doing more damage.
Just as well I don't have to go through airport scanners or the steel in me would set alarm bells ringing.

 

[Anonymous]

Guys

I tried setting my blades as shown in the links and find that the end of the wood is cut away in a sort of scollop

Pretty despondent now. Need to get the blades set for better quality thicknessing but the advice from Record above does not do it for my Elektra

Any ideas????

 

[Dewy]

That's known as SNIPE Tony. If you go to most timber merchants you will find that you lose a few inches to snipe on each board.
The cure is to set the planer blades exactly level with the outfield table. It takes a little time adjusting them but is well worth it.

 

[DaveL]

Tony,
What you are seeing now is called snipe. On a planer it is commonly caused by the out feed table not being at same height as the blades. usually lower, the wood drops as the end comes off the infeed table.
On thicknessers it can be caused be the timber not being very well supported, the weight of the timber makes it kick as the end passes under the infeed roller.
Not sure how to adjust it out on your machine as I only have a Perform planner thicknesser, not an Electra.

 

[Anonymous]

Ta Dewy and DaveL

I originally had them level with outfeed but the manual and links here stated that the wood should move 2mm, 5mm, 10mm, when blades turned by hand. Result= snipe!!I will reset them level .

My original problem was not the planer side which was great but the thicknesser which gave a rough finish.

I have a Delta portable thicknesser which gives a surface as smooth as my hand planes BUT it has a brushed motor and is LOUD. (hammer)
When we moved house last November I wanted a planer and needed a quieter thicknesser as the garage is attached to the house and near neighbours now - hence the induction motored Elektra.

Any advice as to how I can geta smoother finish from Elektra - I use Delta at the mo and annoy neighbours :twisted:

 

[Noel]

Tony,

Thicknesser checklist:

Infeed & outfeed supports level with bed
Cutter block parallel with bed
Blades properly seated
Blades sharp
Taking too big a cut will create added pressure on the rollers resulting in a poor finish and snipe. As the stock leaves the infeed roller no matter how tight the cutter head lock some flexing will occur and blades will momentarily engage the stock, resulting in snipe.
Ensure grain direction is correct
Lubricate the bed and supports (Trend PTFE is good)

No doubt there are more...

Rgds

Noel

 

[Guest]

I saw a tip for holding a steel rule at 90 degrees to the table for easier set up. Take two small square blocks of wood, cut a slot the width of your steel rule,just deep enough to accept the full width of the rule. when you push the rule into the slots the rule will stand on your outfeed/infeed table leaving both hands free to adjust whatever needs adjusting.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks to all

I played in the garage last night and followed the advice given. Thicknesses quite acceptably now on oak, ash and beech. I suspect tha the wax made the most difference but it is probably a combination of everything.

Cheers guys