Joint help.

[Sea Chief]

Im wondering now if I'm clamping too hard. As it seems this trait happens on the top & btm more than the sides, & I only use a diy set of clamps ( two bits of timber with 2 threaded rods linking them.. one each L and R side, I screw 2 nuts on the tops of them to put even pressure across & to clamp the timbers together vertically).

I then rubber mallet tap hard all over to close the joints, but no clamps per se sideways.. if you get my gist.

Maybe Im both putting too much pressure vertically, & maybe forcing too much glue out too. And possibly flooding the joints with too much glue too- I tend to remove a good lot inside corner & outside edges too.

Hmm.. sorry to plough my own furrow/ thoughts here chaps, but first time I've questioned my gluing & clamping technique.

Thanks for reading, SC

 

[Inspector]

Sea Chief. The glued up pine (I assume like ours for shelves made from shorts finger jointed end to end and then glued together to make a width, then shrink wrapped in plastic) is a little more stable because it was kiln dried before sizing and gluing together. Especially if the pine you are buying is construction wood, not pine meant for furniture. The glue in the joints of the "laminated" boards adds nothing to the strength or stability of the board.

For wood to be affected by the clamping you would have to crush the fibres and that takes considerable force. You need to be a dimwitted graunch artist not to notice when doing it. We don't believe you are.

As I gave you my opinion of the joint to use I won't repeat myself and will bow out of the discussion as I have nothing more to add. Hope you get it figured out.

Be nice if you would post a few pictures of the completed boxes. We're interested in looking at them.

Pete

 

[Sea Chief]

Sea Chief. The glued up pine (I assume like ours for shelves made from shorts finger jointed end to end and then glued together to make a width, then shrink wrapped in plastic) is a little more stable because it was kiln dried before sizing and gluing together. Especially if the pine you are buying is construction wood, not pine meant for furniture. The glue in the joints of the "laminated" boards adds nothing to the strength or stability of the board.

For wood to be affected by the clamping you would have to crush the fibres and that takes considerable force. You need to be a dimwitted graunch artist not to notice when doing it. We don't believe you are.

As I gave you my opinion of the joint to use I won't repeat myself and will bow out of the discussion as I have nothing more to add. Hope you get it figured out.

Be nice if you would post a few pictures of the completed boxes. We're interested in looking at them.

Pete

 

[morqthana]

Isn't the range of ambient conditions going to be even wider than one would normally expect for furniture?

Valve amps are going to produce a lot of internal heating and thus drying. If anybody ever takes one "on the road" then sooner or later it could be in the unheated rear of an uninsulated van in cold weather, and then humped into a venue with stage lighting and hundreds of sweaty, breathing, bodies.

OOI - if you go and buy an amp from Fender/Marshall/Mesa-Boogie/Orange/etc, how is the cab made?

 

[Sea Chief]

Im only keeping the pix up for a bit, like one of those yoofs 'app' newfangled things where you do a snap of yr junk, send it to your new gf & it vanish after a bit. or something.

 

[Freddyjersey2016]

Rather late in the day - if I understood this box is being used as an Amp cabinet - is this purely for storage, or it is powered on while in the box - if it is powered on I would assume the box would get hotter than typical ambient - so then there are the possibilities - the box is changing size due to thermal expansion / contraction cycling; and the thickness of timber is changing due to lower moisture content due to higher temperature? Over time this would be apparent on the vinyl covering.