Joint for bookcase top

[Wylie2112]

Hello,

I'm back after having taken the good advice here on jointing planks for my bookcase (resulted in some pretty decent joints done by hand, I must say - many thanks!). I'm doing this project with handtools only (much to the amusement of my workshop mates), where possible.

I'm now glueing up the planks to make the sides, top, and shelves, so am thinking about the next phase. I'm going to cut and plane them down to near-finished sizes and then start assembling them. I'm planning on using blind housejoints for the shelves into the sides. My question (finally) is about the best joints to use for the uprights into the top and bottom. I'm thinking about a blind sliding dovetail or somesuch so that, when lifting and moving it, the strength is in the wood more than the glue. So, question is, is that an appropriate joint for this application or is there a better one? And, part 2, if that is an appropriate joint, how the **** do I create it using handtools? I've got a hand router and a selection of chisels, but I can't see how I'll make good, consistent joints using those.

Any help much appreciated!

Wylie

 

[markymark12]

Hello

Can the top not just be buttoned to the carcass?

Mark

 

[mr]

A Dovetail of some sort would seem entirely appropriate and quite achievable with hand tools only after some practice. Having said that you mention relying on the strength of the wood rather than the glue - bear in mind that with modern glues the wood will often give up the ghost long before the glue will.

Cheers Mike.

 

[markymark12]

If you are going to go with a sliding dovetail make sure only to glue the front to allow expansion between the two surfaces.

Personally i like to remove the top if i am going to move of item of furniture. Even more so if the top overhangs the carcass as it is the first thing to get knocked trying to shift it through doorways.

 

[Wylie2112]

Wow! You guys are fast!

MM12, I'm not sure what you mean by "buttoned". The bookcase will be up to about a chair rail height against the wall as I want to use the top of it as a display surface, so I want to keep the top completely clean if I can.

MR, thanks for the reassurance on the joint. Any ideas on where I can get some advice on how to actually go about cutting it? I've no idea how to ensure straight and consistent bevels with the tools I've got. And I hear you about the glue. Good point. Part of the exercise is just to practice using handtools and learning how to make joints. This is my first project so it's really an excuse to try out as many things as I can.

Thanks, guys!

 

[mr]

When I mention a dovetail I mean a normal (possibly half blind) set of dovetails there not really any sliding involved so I wonder whether we are talking about the same thing. I am NOT talking about this sort of thing

which would seem unnecessary to me.

If you search this site there are a few how tos for Dovetails and more info to be found here.

http://home.nj.rr.com/afoust/dovetails.html

Hope that helps

Cheers Mike

 

[Wylie2112]

Mike,
That diagram is actually what I am talking about. The top of the case overhangs the front and the sides, so I was thinking about some kind of joint where the uprights could be slid in from the back for assembly but would be blind to the front and sides. I was thinking about a half-dovetail and making it blind, so the problem in my head is how to cut a reverse bevel along the length of the joint for both the pin and the slot.

Do you think this is overkill?

 

[mr]

Hi Wylie
The joint you're talking about will certainly do the job but it's quite a challenge you're setting yourself. If you go for it please post pics as you go It's something I'd like to follow. You will need a couple of specialist tools I think - like a dovetail plane. You don't say where you are but there's a chap round these parts who can make one for you if needs be. http://www.phillyplanes.co.uk Dovetail planes aren't on the site but I believe Phil has made them as special orders (?)

There's some info on how to cut the joint here

http://www.furnituremasters.org/moreby.cfm?ID=26

Go on, you know you want to.

Cheers Mike

 

[Wylie2112]

Mike,

Yeah, I do want to. I don't know why, I just seem to want to do things with as little mechanical/modern interference as possible to really learn the old handskills. The only problem is that I don't really have anyone on hand to really teach me some of these skills, so I'm getting by on what I can learn here and figure out from the basic cabinetry course I took a few years ago.

I also don't really know too much about wood, how it moves and lives, so I'm flying a bit blind, but asking questions and seeking advice when I can. many thanks to you and Mark for helping out.

Now, off to make a dovetail plane... :roll:

 

[mr]

A man after my own heart Good luck and don't forget to post pics and let us know how you get on.

Cheers Mike

 

[woodbloke]

Mike,
That diagram is actually what I am talking about. The top of the case overhangs the front and the sides, so I was thinking about some kind of joint where the uprights could be slid in from the back for assembly but would be blind to the front and sides. I was thinking about a half-dovetail and making it blind, so the problem in my head is how to cut a reverse bevel along the length of the joint for both the pin and the slot.

Do you think this is overkill?

Some good advice from Mike here. Sliding housed d/t joints are tricky little things to do, a little practice on a couple of oddments is highly recommended...and to make the front and sides blind you will need to have a stopped joint so that the top doesn't go all the way thru' to the front - Rob