Joining Worktops

[andrewm]

Need to fit a kitchen worktop. Using a mason's mitre, biscuits and worktop joining bolts but how do you ensure that the two surfaces are level? Even with biscuits there is a bit of play and even ten thou difference is going to be obvious if you run you fingers over the join.

I had thought about using a couple of cauls to clamp along the length but the long piece runs the full width of the kitchen so it would mean leaning the whole assembly at an angle with associated risk to sink cutouts etc.

Second idea is to screw some 2x1s underneath across the join and wedge the lower end and tighten the screws to get alignment.

But is there a trick that the pros use that I am missing?

Andrew

 

[MickCheese]

I am no pro but I have fitted a kitchen worktop in the past.

I didn't have any problems with pulling the joint up with worktop bolts and biscuits to locate them.

As long as you are careful cutting the slots and reference from the same edge you can use your finger tips to assess if the two tops are exactly level and if not at the last minute just knock one or other into line.

Worked for me.

I would be interested to hear if there is a better way though.

Mick

 

[speed]

tighten the bolts alittle then use a mallet to "adjust" as needed tighten the bolt alittle more, do the same again until they are lined up then nip the bolts up

edit to add,
on several occasions ive tried using timbers under the worktop but found sometimes the worktops are diffrent thicknesses, so you can get the bottom flat but it shows at the top,

 

[chippy1970]

I just do it by feel as you say there is still a bit of play with biscuits and what you might find is that the worktops are sometimes bowed slightly. I usually get the worktop almost together with a 6 mm or so gap then i mask the joint either side, then squirt the compound in all the way along the joint making sure its well in. Then start to bolt the joint together remove excess that squeezes out remove tape. Now feel the joint to get it level will bolting up. Then its just a case of removing any excess compound with a plastic scraper or use the solvent that comes with it but only wipe across the joint not with it.

 

[markymark12]

Safe to say i have fitted a few hundred tops tops over the years. And most fitters i know use the same method which is easier when in pairs, one lying in the cupboard and the other on top, apply clear silicone or better still some colourfill but up the joint, nip up all the bolts, clean, i use a bit of laminate to remove the excess, test it by running your fingers over, and then level by tapping with the hammer, squarely of course. You will be surprised just how bent some tops can be, more so if they are suppling some cheap thing, that they have laid up the stairs for 3 weeks.. Best bet is to supply where you can and buy something decent to start. I use Duropal a lot partly because of the 4.1m lengths.
The only other point worth mentioning is, always use 3 bolts, some jigs only offer 2 on a 600mm top, when the tops are a bit bent it is not enough for you to play around with. If the jig only has 2 on, then just move up to work in the 3.

 

[xy mosian]

All good stuff.

Just feeel the joint man!

xy

 

[Lons]

Safe to say i have fitted a few hundred tops tops over the years. And most fitters i know use the same method which is easier when in pairs, one lying in the cupboard and the other on top, apply clear silicone or better still some colourfill but up the joint, nip up all the bolts, clean, i use a bit of laminate to remove the excess, test it by running your fingers over, and then level by tapping with the hammer, squarely of course. You will be surprised just how bent some tops can be, more so if they are suppling some cheap thing, that they have laid up the stairs for 3 weeks.. Best bet is to supply where you can and buy something decent to start. I use Duropal a lot partly because of the 4.1m lengths.
The only other point worth mentioning is, always use 3 bolts, some jigs only offer 2 on a 600mm top, when the tops are a bit bent it is not enough for you to play around with. If the jig only has 2 on, then just move up to work in the 3.

Spot on - I use this method every time and I've sucessfully fitted many in the past 10 years.

I'd echo the point about 3 bolts - essential IMO

 

[andrewm]

Safe to say i have fitted a few hundred tops tops over the years. And most fitters i know use the same method which is easier when in pairs, one lying in the cupboard and the other on top, apply clear silicone or better still some colourfill but up the joint, nip up all the bolts, clean, i use a bit of laminate to remove the excess, test it by running your fingers over, and then level by tapping with the hammer, squarely of course. You will be surprised just how bent some tops can be, more so if they are suppling some cheap thing, that they have laid up the stairs for 3 weeks.. Best bet is to supply where you can and buy something decent to start. I use Duropal a lot partly because of the 4.1m lengths.
The only other point worth mentioning is, always use 3 bolts, some jigs only offer 2 on a 600mm top, when the tops are a bit bent it is not enough for you to play around with. If the jig only has 2 on, then just move up to work in the 3.

Thanks, that is useful. I am using three connectors so that is a start. But it is IKEA worktop and it has been laid up in the garage for six months sp probably not optimal.

However, I do have the luxury of there being no units under at present so can support it on whatever I like for doing the tapping.

Andrew